Question on BLO

[Dave Monk]

I have noticed on this site that many of you use BLO.  I always like to try new things so I decided that I would buy some and try it. If I use it on puzzle parts would I have to fallow up with a finish? If I use it on word art would I use it before I put on my backer or after? I would paint my backer black and also use lacquer for my final finish. Any help is appreciated. dave

[LarryEA]

Do a search here in General Scrollsawing for BLO.

I suggest you mix it with mineral spirits 50/50.

[oldhudson]

I use boiled linseed oil (BLO) on most woodworking projects, assuming I'm not going to paint them. IMHO it brings out the natural grain and color of the wood.

 

Most of the time, but not always, I'll add a topcoat like shellac, lacquer, varnish or what-have-you. I think a top coat adds a finished look. Let the BLO thoroughly dry before adding any top coat. I generally mix 50/50 with mineral spirits.  But that only helps the BLO flash off and makes it easier to apply.

 

Experiment with finishes on scrap stock. 

[Bill WIlson]

I don't really consider BLO to be a "finish" in the general context that most folks use the term.  It has practically no protective qualities at all.  It contains drying additives, so it's marginally better than mineral oil, in that it doesn't stay tacky.  It does have it's place though.  I like to use BLO as a colorant, grain enhancer and/or component of a home brew style Danish oil.  I don't use it as a stand-alone finish, if I want/need any protective qualities or the appearance of a sheen.   I do like how it makes the grain pop, especially on darker woods like walnut and cherry.  If I'm going to use a water borne finish or perhaps lacquer as a topcoat, I'll often use BLO to bring out the grain & color first.  Then I'll seal it with a light coat of de-waxed shellac before topcoating. 

[Sycamore67]

I find that I get the same appearance with Danish oil as BLO. The Danish oil has somebody in it so it is a finish with good penetration.

 

I avoid BLO just because of the fire hazards. I am always careful with rags used in finishing but the additional hazard of forgetting and leave a rag with BLO is just not worth it.

[oldhudson]

I find that I get the same appearance with Danish oil as BLO. The Danish oil has somebody in it so it is a finish with good penetration.

 

I avoid BLO just because of the fire hazards. I am always careful with rags used in finishing but the additional hazard of forgetting and leave a rag with BLO is just not worth it.

Excellent point.

[LarryEA]

I find that I get the same appearance with Danish oil as BLO. The Danish oil has somebody in it so it is a finish with good penetration.

 

I avoid BLO just because of the fire hazards. I am always careful with rags used in finishing but the additional hazard of forgetting and leave a rag with BLO is just not worth it.

Danish Oil, Tung Oil and Linseed oil all are a danger of spontanous ignition.

You still have a fire hazard  with Danish Oil.

[amazingkevin]

I use boiled linseed oil (BLO) on most woodworking projects, assuming I'm not going to paint them. IMHO it brings out the natural grain and color of the wood.

 

Most of the time, but not always, I'll add a topcoat like shellac, lacquer, varnish or what-have-you. I think a top coat adds a finished look. Let the BLO thoroughly dry before adding any top coat. I generally mix 50/50 with mineral spirits.  But that only helps the BLO flash off and makes it easier to apply.

 

Experiment with finishes on scrap stock. 

Sounds like a plan for my 196 mini bird houses.Thanks !

[Lucky2]

I use blo, but, I use it more for it's ability to pop the grain,but, not as a finish. After I apply one or two coats of blo, I let it dry for a week or so before applying a top coat. To me, blo is more of a wood conditioner. I usually use lacquer for my top coat, I like how it dries so fast.

[NC Scroller]

I also have used BLO to "pop" the grain. Danish Oil, tung oil are blends that contain BLO so they will also "pop" but not as much as BLO alone. I always mix BLO 50/50 with mineral spirits. Lucky2 makes a great point. BLO whether straight from the can takes a long time to dry. Mixed 50/50 I would wait 2-3 days before doing anything with the piece. Straight from the can I would wait 5-7 days.

 

You asked about if you should apply before adding your backing and the answer is yes.

 

I often top coat BLO with spray can Poly.

[zimmerstutzen]

I use BLO on exterior wood that I want to get that gray weathered driftwood look.  It turns a natural looking weathered gray rather quickly when out in the sun and the oil adds some slight protection. .  It really doesn't finish wood, absent so many additives that it is no longer BLO.     For small heavily used items I use Linspeed, but I don't know if it is non-toxic.     I refinished my daughter's antique flexible flyer sled twenty years ago using BLO.  It soaked in well, but took months to dry properly.    With all the modern preservatives and finishes, I see little use for BLO as a go to substance. 

[CharleyL]

I use BLO mostly to bring out pretty grain and give nice wood a nicer appearance. It really pops the appearance of the grain, even in some relatively bland looking boards and Birch plywood. It can be the final finish, but I frequently use a dewaxed shellac coat over it to seal the surface, followed by a pigmented stain to color the wood, and then several coats of poly to protect it, if it will see any hands-on use. BLO by itself will seal the wood and make it somewhat water resistant, but not offer any extended protection like several coats of poly does. Years ago, when I owned wooden ladders, I used to put a coat or two of BLO on them every few years to help make them water resistant, should the ladders ever be caught in a rain storm or two while being used. This worked very well without making the ladders slippery, but it won't last if they are left out for months. When used as the only finish, it's easy to just add another layer of oil whenever desired. It bonds to the original layers very well. Whenever BLO is used, it's best to let it soak into the wood and dry some for 1/2-1 hour before wiping off the excess. If another coat is desired, let the previous coat dry a day or two before adding another coat. I treat WATCO finishes, Danish Oil, Tung Oil, and any other oil finishes with the same respect. During their drying the chemical reaction absorbs oxygen, and rags soaked in them can catch fire on their own (spontaneous combustion).

 

ALWAYS open up your BLO or other oil soaked rags and spread them out on a metal fence OUTSIDE YOUR SHOP to dry, or SOAK THEM THOROUGHLY IN A PAIL OF WATER, if you don't have a special oily rag disposal container. Raw and boiled linseed oils are about the worst for spontaneous combustion and the oil soaked rags may actually catch fire an hour or two after you leave them bunched up and unused some place in your shop (your workbench ?). If this happens, you will be looking for all new tools and a new place to work. I once burned my hand by picking up a bunched up linseed oil soaked rag that had been sitting unused for a little less than one hour. I was still working on applying the oil to other parts of the table when this happened. BE SAFE! Don't leave them in your shop at all. Spread them out so air can freely reach both sides while they dry, then discard them after they have completely dried.

 

Charley