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Finish for table on older saw


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I have been given a scroll saw by a friend to put into "active storage"for her adult daughter. [i can use it all I want]but I had to recover the table which was covered in rust [vinegar works wonders] now I would like to know if I could paint it to prevent further rust.I've got about 6 coats of auto paste Wax on it and I'm still pulling up the fine rust. I thought of getting it clean and then painting it with rustoleum paint [one that binds with rust to take care of the immediate problem then with a white finish to leave a smooth coat. Yea? Nay? Any other ideas? Thanks for your time

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I would just clean all the rust off by using mineral spirits and fine steel wool or a scrubbing pad and then wax it. The vinegar may be causing the "fine rust". I would be afraid to paint it and have the paint make your project stick when sliding around. This is my 2 cents I'm sure there will be others offer help.

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'Preciate the input...your probably right...I've already used the vinegar to clean the heavy Rudy off. The top is stable as far as visible rust [so far ]

So I will takeep your advice for the mineral oil. Also I should mention the rabble is very ruff already....I can see the milling marks on it. This is a Delta 15" model 40-170. Obviously a beginners light use saw. [i'm not even sure it runs yet!] I read about retooling a table with something like birch plywood. ..maybe paint it for 'posterity' [still chuckling here] and put a top on it? Yea? Nay?

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I covered the top of one of my saws with 1/8" masonite and it has been there for a long time, working fine,  I did it more for a "zero clearance" (reduce the size of the hole the blade goes through, but it would work for your purposes also.  Amazingkevin, a member here has linoleum or something on his saws.  Maybe he will speak up here.  I know masonite is hard to come by, but pressboard or hardboard or whatever they call it would work as well.

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Flames clean rust off of metal like nobody's business.My oxygen acetylene teacher said cleanliness is next to Godliness.To clean metal for bronze to stick to i needed to heat the metal cherry red .But one thing about rust is it needs oxygen to grow.Cut that off and no more rust.I tryied wax, polish buffing etc but it needed to be done over and over. I like minimal maintenance so i contact cemented thin Formica on my table ,filed the edges and years went by and no problems .the wood slides very good on it . :) :) :)

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Get a detail or orbital sander and sand all of the rust off, then wax the top with a good quality wax. Remember to not use a wax that has any silicone in it, it could affect the finish on your work. The problem with adding a thick top, is that it affects how the reverse tooth blades work. If you are going to be adding a top, you should use something no thicker then 1/8". I wouldn't paint it for any reason, painting the table could cause more issues then it solves.

Len

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Johnson's Paste Wax® is great for doing a saw table.  There is no silicone or anything to transfer to the work to prevent finishes from adhering and it goes on easy.

 

Since I cut outside, I drape my table with a black trash bag to heat up the table slightly (opens the pores) and then slap on a medium heavy coat of wax--wait about 20 minutes and then buff it off with some old t-shirt material. Sun really warms the table rapidly.

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There are several grades of steel wool. One of the finest usually available is 0000. It can clean off fine rust without scratching or damaging the main surface. Gunsmith use it to restore old guns because it cleans the metal of rust without marring the old patina. But it must be 0000 not 000 or coarser. Coaster will scratch the surface badly.

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Thanks everyone for all your good ideas. I used 'cleaning' grade vinegar (Applemans). Soaked it for about 3 hours [don't think it needed that much time just forgot about ;-)]. Used Turtle wax on it so I might have to 'sand' the wax off...silicone....but the formic and such ideas are well taken. Again Thanks

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