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Sanding Mop


tonylumps

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I have two. Both 4x6, or something like that, one is 120 grit and the other is 220 grit. I use them on most of my scroll saw projects. They are great for sanding contours, and especially great for easing edges on stand up puzzles.

You do have to be careful though, you can easily launch a piece across the room if you don't have a good grip on it!

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I am cheap so I built a cheap one and I have today, that was a big mistake. It really does not do much for me. I do believe that a good one. Is probably a good investment. I too am anxious to read the replies of others. I still have one on my possible list to have a good one

 

Dick

hepppnerguy

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I've tried them and then I gave them away, they were to catchy for my likes. I do mostly fret work, and I was afraid to use the sanders on it because it might break. They do work well on solid pieces of wood, I liked how well they sanded the edges of puzzle pieces.

Len

Edited by Lucky2
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I don't have a Sand-flee unit, but I do use 2 mops of 180 and 220 grits that are homemade using pieces from Klingspor and an old dual shaft motor. I followed directions from Steve Good and find it incredibly useful especially on my intarsia. You're going to use them alot. 

 

attachicon.gifmop sander.JPG

Scott ,Those are the biggest king daddy sanding mops i ever seen .Man alive i'd like to try one.I make my own and don't find cloth sandpaper  that much to build a whooper like yours.I found a 1.5" dremil in the store once and never again.It shows up here once in a while ,very small.Another thing i found works good is a wheel with bristles on it .I don't know if it was used for polishing but it too works great as a sanding mop for the fuzzys.Its late so i'm only getting the mops i know they are.post-1607-0-03806500-1469506268_thumb.jpgpost-1607-0-04691200-1469506339_thumb.jpgpost-1607-0-51365700-1469506369_thumb.jpgpost-1607-0-87924600-1469506452_thumb.jpg

Edited by amazingkevin
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Well I did my first relief cut.It was a Sue Mey cross.I glued the relief together and used the Sanding mop to ease off all of the edges. (Will show the results of the sanding when the finish is on).What a pleasure.I still don't look forward to sanding.But this makes it a whole lot easier.I use it on my drill press at about 1900 RPM I broke in the Sand Flee for about 10 Minutes before using it .The one I got was 6" 180 Grit Witch is equal to 220 sand paper .Only need very little pressure and was able to use it on my little Angle Ribbons without launching any of them.Never had to were my gloves.

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I have one, this thread reminded me that I did.  I have not used it in a long time.  I am afraid to use it on delicate fret work and that is what I have been doing most of.  It is a good tool though.  I have used is on less delicate items in the past and it worked well.  Mine is from Klingspor Woodworking Shop.  Can not remember the grids I have for it. 

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I make toy cars and such for underprivileged kids and use a sanding mop for the finish sanding 220 grit.   Sanding mops are not designed to sand fragile work like fretwork.   They would work very well for finish sanding on pieces for a intarsia project.   There is a short learning curve that includes holding on to the work piece in a firm grip.   The first thing to do with a new sanding mop is to break it in with a fairly large piece of scrap so you can firmly grip it and ease it into to mop.   I use mine often and like it very much.  

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Sanding mops are about the best thing since the invention of slice bread.

 

It's great strength to the scrollsaw artist (IMHO) is softening the hard inside edges of fretwork.

 

I use a 4" mop - 220 grit - at the slowest speed on my drill press which I think is about 700 something RPM.  I know others will use much higher speeds but this is what has worked for me.

 

One caution to avoid damaging fretwork is to make multiple, light, slow passes in all 4 directions - at the same time firmly supporting the piece using both hands - making sure you also support, with your fingers, the back side of the point being sanded.

 

If I am working on a large flat piece that doesn't lend itself to the mop being mounted on a drill press then I clamp the piece on my bench and use an old Makita 7.2 cordless drill my wife bought me well over 30 years ago - still going strong and the RPM's are about perfect for my liking.  Same routine - multiple, light, slow passes on all 4 directions.

 

 

 

Jay

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I have had one for several years 220 and use similar as jay in drill press. I have done fret work but as Jay said need support and be careful. This year I replaced  some of the strips since I had enought left over to do it all over again. I use in on all my work and have no complaints except when it takes the piece for a flight accross the room and breaks that causes me to speak a different language. A secondary gain is it really buffs my nails.

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Scott ,Those are the biggest king daddy sanding mops i ever seen .Man alive i'd like to try one.I make my own and don't find cloth sandpaper  that much to build a whooper like yours.I found a 1.5" dremil in the store once and never again.It shows up here once in a while ,very small.Another thing i found works good is a wheel with bristles on it .I don't know if it was used for polishing but it too works great as a sanding mop for the fuzzys.Its late so i'm only getting the mops i know they are.attachicon.gifIMG_20160725_235853.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160725_235858.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160725_235917.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20160725_235908.jpg

I get my paper in a roll and the arbors also for the motor from Klingspor. I use rolls that are 2 inches wide and cut the strips into 6 inches long strips. Check out the link below from Steve Good as he explains it excellently. I am working on some smaller ones(similar to the mini flutter wheels Seyco sells) that use a nut and bolt as the arbor to chuck on a drill to power it. I am ordering a flex shaft for the drill to be able to use it like the flex shaft on my dremel. I have used the big mops on scrolled items with great results, but not on the delicate portrait type projects. Using spacers between some of the layers in the mops softens the aggressiveness some too.

 

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2008/12/make-your-own-sanding-mop-on-cheap.html

 

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=22&f5=CLOTH&f1=2%22+X+10

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