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My first real figure cut


fastfreddy

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I'm too new myself and mainly trying Intarsia work to be able to give you any real critique or feedback.  however, I did want to say I thought it looked nice.  Also wanted to note that I "think" that what looks a little like "burn" marks on some areas like the "head" for example is due to you "pushing" the wood too much into the blade rather then letting the blade do the cutting.  I am still struggling with that sometimes myself.  :oops:  one thing they had me try at my Intarsia class was speeding up the speed I was cutting with and/or switching to a different blade then what they had us using "normally".  both of those helped me but I still have to "think" not to push sometimes. :)   We will both get there with practice.  I haven't been able to practice any this week - getting my son ready to return to college this coming week and they were building a large coffee table and a loft bed for his room at the frat house in the workshop.  :sad:   Hope to get back to it this week when I get back from taking him to school.

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Just my 2 cents worth, so take it for what it works. The drill holes detract from your excellent piece. Personally, I drill outside the line. Cut towards the line & make a fairly sharp turn onto the line. After the cut is established nicely on the line, back out to the hole. Rotate 180 degrees and back into your first cut. That established line will serve as a guide for the blade to cut in the opposite direction. Keep going and later return to your original cut.

 

You are on the right track Friend. Everyone on this site made their first piece at one time.

 

jerry

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Good work, but..... first thing, one of the reasons for the burn you have in this project Freddy, is you used Baltic birch plywood. Nothing against it, but it burns like paper! Using the right blade, & right speed can eliminate some of the problem. Keep in mind smaller blades need more tension & more speed. Bigger blades need less tension, & less speed. When I drill my entry holes, I try & drill in a "v" spot, or along a straight area. It creates less stress on the blade, & gets your cut started faster. How often do you change blades? Well, that varies project to project, blade type, wood, etc. On this project, you could've used a #3 or #5 ultra reverse blade without issues. Change your blade when you feel yourself having to put a little extra pressure on the blade. Let the blade do the work. You'll get the feel of it. I read a post once about changing blades, & this fella said he sets a timer for 15 minutes. Every 15 minutes, he changed his blade. Nonsense! The scroll saw is a machine designed to create with, not spend all your time changing blades. Keep practicing, read when you can, & enjoy your saw time! Keep up the good work!

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 Have to agree with other posters, your getting it you just need to slow down a bit and enjoy it. The project looks good. Using thinner stock tends to let the blade work easier just adjust your slots for the thinner stock. Your early pieces are good to keep, this allows you to grade your progress down the road.

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Just my 2 cents worth, so take it for what it works. The drill holes detract from your excellent piece. Personally, I drill outside the line. Cut towards the line & make a fairly sharp turn onto the line. After the cut is established nicely on the line, back out to the hole. Rotate 180 degrees and back into your first cut. That established line will serve as a guide for the blade to cut in the opposite direction. Keep going and later return to your original cut.

 

You are on the right track Friend. Everyone on this site made their first piece at one time.

 

jerry

Thank you Jerry1939, Like I said I'm fairly new. I'll certainly try your method and will add to my tip notes.

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Good work, but..... first thing, one of the reasons for the burn you have in this project Freddy, is you used Baltic birch plywood. Nothing against it, but it burns like paper! Using the right blade, & right speed can eliminate some of the problem. Keep in mind smaller blades need more tension & more speed. Bigger blades need less tension, & less speed. When I drill my entry holes, I try & drill in a "v" spot, or along a straight area. It creates less stress on the blade, & gets your cut started faster. How often do you change blades? Well, that varies project to project, blade type, wood, etc. On this project, you could've used a #3 or #5 ultra reverse blade without issues. Change your blade when you feel yourself having to put a little extra pressure on the blade. Let the blade do the work. You'll get the feel of it. I read a post once about changing blades, & this fella said he sets a timer for 15 minutes. Every 15 minutes, he changed his blade. Nonsense! The scroll saw is a machine designed to create with, not spend all your time changing blades. Keep practicing, read when you can, & enjoy your saw time! Keep up the good work!

Will write down your recommendations on my tips notebook. (right blade and speed-smaller blades more tension & more speed-bigger blades need less tension & less speed) . I did notice with the bigger blade I didn't need to much tension but did not reduce my speed. I learned so much from this project, made lots of mistakes/adjustments. Thanks for the info. Will be adjustments accordingly.

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 Have to agree with other posters, your getting it you just need to slow down a bit and enjoy it. The project looks good. Using thinner stock tends to let the blade work easier just adjust your slots for the thinner stock. Your early pieces are good to keep, this allows you to grade your progress down the road.

 

Thanks you, I really do need to slow down.

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I will put in my 2 cents worth,. As others have stated the burn marks are created by both wrong size of blade and speed and the thickness of the wood. Thicker wood needs a larger blade and reduced speed which will make you want to push the wood into the blade to speed up the cutting. This is the most difficult part of the learning process, not to push the wood into the blade. Here is a very good tip to use when doing any type of cutting with either thick or thin wood and that is to every once in a while check to see if you are pushing the wood by letting up on the wood to see if the blade continues to cut into the wood, if so you know you were pushing to hard. Use a steady feed of the wood into the blade and the blade will do its job. Another tip, as you get close the finish of the project do not rush as this will most likely result in blade going off course or worse. 

Hang in there, you have a very good start and keep asking questions, we have all gone through the same process!

Erv 

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Fred not badly done overall I like it.  If you put something like blue painters tape on the surface of the wood before you apply your pattern the tapes glue will help lubricate the blade and help reducing the burning.  Like most things it takes practice and with more practice things like this will tend to reduce and go away.  Thanks for sharing this with us.

 

 

 

DW

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I will put in my 2 cents worth,. As others have stated the burn marks are created by both wrong size of blade and speed and the thickness of the wood. Thicker wood needs a larger blade and reduced speed which will make you want to push the wood into the blade to speed up the cutting. This is the most difficult part of the learning process, not to push the wood into the blade. Here is a very good tip to use when doing any type of cutting with either thick or thin wood and that is to every once in a while check to see if you are pushing the wood by letting up on the wood to see if the blade continues to cut into the wood, if so you know you were pushing to hard. Use a steady feed of the wood into the blade and the blade will do its job. Another tip, as you get close the finish of the project do not rush as this will most likely result in blade going off course or worse. 

Hang in there, you have a very good start and keep asking questions, we have all gone through the same process!

Erv 

You are spot on about the pushing. (thicker wood needs a larger blade and reduced speed which make you push the wood into the blade  to speed up cutting). I got anxious towards the end and now that I think about it I'm pretty sure I was pushing. You provided me with some excellent tips that are sure to go in my notebook under tips. It certainly is a learning process and having fun with it. Gotta go and make some saw dust.

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