Names & letters

[Wosta]

Is there any one out there can help me with how to cut out name without making a total mess of words is there a right blade to use please help?

[WayneMahler]

The blade would depend on the wood and the thickness of it. The blade speed would also be affected by this. Can you describe better what you are working with and trying to accomplish ? A photo may help also.

[ike]

Check with amazingkevin he is the name expert

.IKE

[lawson56]

Some Great advise up there.Wood and Blades do have a lot to with it.and the style of letters.Hopefully Kevin will see this and can advise you.

[Wosta]

Thanks very much for your advice hope Kevin will help

[amazingkevin]

Thanks very much for your advice hope Kevin will help

Hi Wosta,been a long day here ,no time for SSV.

[amazingkevin]

Is there any one out there can help me with how to cut out name without making a total mess of words is there a right blade to use please help?

I do all,my names from microsoftofficeword 2006 , can make the letters fat  or outline there before i transfer to "Rapid resizer"Rapid resizer is my main stay .I could'nt do what i do with out it.!Try to,use blades that keep,4 teeth touching  the wood at all times = 4 teeth to a 1/4"most blades will cut anythjing but with experience only.

[Lucky2]

Hosta, we need a few details on what it is that you're trying to cut out. How thick is the wood, and what type of wood is it? To get the proper answer to your question, these are things that we need to know.

Len

[Phantom Scroller]

I use ultra reverse blades on my name plates the trick is to keep moving to keep it a smooth and don't cut to fast and remember the lines are a guide don't try and follow ever single kook and cranny  useless you have been at it a long time. Roly  

[Wosta]

I'm useing 1/4 inch pine Iv put a piece Iv done in gallery

[Wosta]

Thanks a lot it's back to workshop

 

[SCROLLSAW703]

Depending on the project, you can lay out your names w/stencils of your choice, then cut the letters. A word the wise, drill your entry holes someplace along the inside edge of your letters, & since you're using 1/4" material, use a #0 or #1 blade. My preference is a skip tooth or polar blade because I get a sharper, cleaner looking cut. Watch your speed, & sand the back of your work piece w/400 grit before beginning cutting. Wax your table good, too. You'll do a fine job, neighbor!

[Wosta]

The tips just keep coming fantastic

Site thanks to every one

[spirithorse]

Greetings,

I think one of the problems you are having is that you are not

using a good font compatible with scroll saw work.

I think most computers have Freefrm 721 black or Scrollsoni.

Check out those fonts and you can download and install other fonts

from sites like DaFont.

Good luck and God Bless! Spirithorse

[Birchbark]

I looked at your Gallery.  Very nice work.  What Spirithorse is talking about is in the image below.  The correct font is the only problem you're having.  The white is the wood.  All the white must connect with "bridges" to the "islands".  The places that don't connect, the "islands" in a pattern we call "floaters".  When someone says that there are to many "floaters" in that pattern, or watch for "floaters" that means not enough bridges.  All the white must connect in a pattern.  That is why Spirithorse suggested you install those fonts, the bridges are built into the fonts, so no floaters.   Make sense?  lol. 

 

Russell

 

 

[Jim Finn]

If you are inlaying lettering I suggest using cursive font over block fonts.  I find them much easier to make look good.  My favorite is in "word" "...... Lucindia Handwriting"  I size them in word also.  There is a double line option in word that I also use.