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Fixing patterns.


BigD

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Here is my take. For years I have also used the painters tape on the wood and then I used a glue stick on the back of the printed pattern. I loved it so much that I knew I would never change my way. As I ventured in doing more and more fret work, I found the small pieces of painters tape left on the wood after cutting it all, was quite time consuming to remove. But I enjoyed the fact that there wasn't glue residue left on the wood, once I got the tape off. Then I watched a video about gluing the pattern with spray adhesive and putting it directly on the wood. My thought then was the residue that would be left behind. At last I tried the spray glue o n the back of the printed appettern and the using paint thinner to remove the paper pattern, when I was finished cutting. Best idea ever, in my mind and here is wY I believe that. It takes such a small amount of spray glue that the cost of it turns out to be very minimal. ( something in thought wS too costly before I gave it a real chance). Using a damp paint brush or paper towel dampened with paint thinner and then ever so lightly applaud to the pattern, then waiting 15 Seconds for the paint thinner to be obsorbed by the adhesive, and as said in another post above, the a pattern almost falls off the wood in it's entirety and no residue left behind. One exception to that is if you have had to over lap a pattern because of it size, then the over lapping part, (especially if you have cellophane taped the connecting pattern pieces) may not observe the paint thinner very well and might resist coming off as well as the rest of the pattern. In that case, it could leave a small amount of reissue behind but a quick wipe with a rag slightly dampened with paint thinner will easily and immediately remove the small sticky area. It takes less time and money to do things this way then any others way I have ever tried. The one important thing I have discovered is one needs to sand and wipe off all the saw dust from your board BEFORE applying your pattern and you will not have pattern lift in the middle of your cutting, even with a lot of tiny fret work.

As far as the use of ironing the pattern directly onto the wood when using a lazier printer is, I have found it is very time consuming a to get it to come onto to wood so that it is really nice to see, so I found I still came back to the above solution for myself. Also keep in mind that you need to make your printed image in reverse.

Hope this helps you or someone else to not be afraid to try something new once in awhile

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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One that nobody has mentioned yet is if you have cut a pattern from thicker solid wood, is to just sand the pattern off with a random orbit sander. It definitely isn't a total solution, but it does work quite well when you need to sand the project anyway. I've tried everything that has been posted, including sanding. Each works better for certain projects than others. It's up to you to try them and stick with the one that works best for you and what you like to make.

 

Charley

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