olddust1 Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 I was doing compound cuttings of 2X2 and was breaking blades left & right. Even though I had tight tension I was pushing the wood too hard and thus bending the blade which then touched the edge of the blade hole in the table. Yes I know; Scrolling 101; go slow and let the saw do the work. So now I do not push hard and also have to find a way to enlarge the hole. All my grinding stones for my Dremel are to large to fit in the slot. Any suggestions? John Old Dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 You don't need to enlarge the hole in the table. You need to increase the blade tension and learn not to push the wood to the point where it hits the edge of the hole in the table. .A 2 X 2 , if this is the actual dimension, is likely too big and causing problems when the upper blade grip comes down and hits the wood. Most scroll saws can't handle a full 2" thickness of the wood. 1 3/4 - 1 7/8" is all they will usually handle. Please tell us what model saw you are using and what size and type of blade that you are using?. Also what kind of wood you are trying to cut? Charley Phantom Scroller, WayneMahler and SCROLLSAW703 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) Not sure what saw you have John, but do not think i would try to enlarge that slot !...Just my two cents worth.......may create bigger problems! Edited August 7, 2016 by Scrolling Steve WayneMahler and Old Joe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I'm confused on what your looking for John. I use a #7 UR for my compound cuts. I let the blade do the work and exercise a lot patience. You can NOT force feed a compound cut in thicker wood. I will go through a few blades on one project due to heat build up and dulling. Slow and steady is what I have learned. What hole are you trying to enlarge? amazingkevin and NC Scroller 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddust1 Posted August 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I have an Excalibur 21 The actual wood size is 1 1/2 X 1 1/2" Pine. The hole or slot I am talking about is the one on the table that the blade goes thru. Blade FD#7. John Old Dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Pine or spruce? spruce can be tough. Don't mess with the table. JMO Jim Finn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I'm sure if you enlarge the hole, you will regret it later. Most people are looking at ways to make the hole smaller when they do fret work. Jim Finn, WayneMahler and woodknots 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I have a dewalt 788 and it don.t handle that thick of wood, I have a hard time with the miniture bird houses which is 1 1/4x 1 1/4", just my opinion, edward SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 I was doing compound cuttings of 2X2 and was breaking blades left & right. Even though I had tight tension I was pushing the wood too hard and thus bending the blade which then touched the edge of the blade hole in the table. Yes I know; Scrolling 101; go slow and let the saw do the work. So now I do not push hard and also have to find a way to enlarge the hole. All my grinding stones for my Dremel are to large to fit in the slot. Any suggestions? John Old Dust #7 scroll reverse is my blade of choice an sometimes #9 reverse.Your having a lot of blade slippage it sounds like .Hardwoods will pull your blade loose pushing to hard.I use alot of 3/4" plywood an push hard.I keep everything touching the blade clean &scratchy and don't touch the ends of the blade.I have good luck.I listen to the sound of the saw and can tell when the blade starts to loosen up.dw788's are very quiet.The cheap saws vi could never hear anything but the noise of the inferior machine ,which is way to loud to notice a difference when the blade loosens up.My compound cutting i use white pine ,very soft to cut,try the cutting discs dremil has .I did a lot of scroll saw modification so i could fit my hand in it to change the blade it was a craftsman18"i used a dremil to do this.Take the table off the saw so you can rill the hole to the size you want.Later you can tape a playing card over the hole when cutting fragile thin fretwork. WayneMahler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdatelle Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 John, I cut 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 up to 2 x 2 on my ex 21.Sometimes I have a problem if I rush. I use a # 5 #7 and #9.The wood I have the most trouble with is Oak and cedar. You have to go really slow. I've been cutting xmas ornaments with the initial in the center and there 5 inches tall, plus birdhouses. They come out good when I go slow.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 John, whatever you do, don't make the hole in the table any larger. I think that if you do, you will regret doing it in the near future. If your having problems with blade drift, then it's a tension issue. Len Jim Finn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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