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Found why i'm breaking blades.


olddust1

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I was doing compound cuttings of 2X2 and was breaking blades left & right.

Even though I had tight tension I was pushing the wood too hard and thus bending the blade which

then touched the edge of the blade hole in the table.

 

Yes I know; Scrolling 101; go slow and let the saw do the work.

 

So now I do not push hard and also have to find a way to enlarge the hole.

All my grinding stones for my Dremel are to large to fit in the slot.

Any suggestions?

 

John

 

Old Dust

 

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You don't need to enlarge the hole in the table. You need to increase the blade tension and learn not to push the wood to the point where it hits the edge of the hole in the table. .A 2 X 2 , if this is the actual dimension, is likely too big and causing problems when the upper blade grip comes down and hits the wood. Most scroll saws can't handle a full 2" thickness of the wood. 1 3/4 - 1 7/8" is all they will usually handle. 

 

Please tell us what model saw you are using and what size and type of blade that you are using?. Also what kind of wood you are trying to cut? 

 

Charley

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I'm confused on what your looking for John. I use a #7 UR for my compound cuts. I let the blade do the work and exercise a lot patience. You can NOT force feed a compound cut in thicker wood. I will go through a few blades on one project due to heat build up and dulling. Slow and steady is what I have learned. What hole are you trying to enlarge? 

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I was doing compound cuttings of 2X2 and was breaking blades left & right.

Even though I had tight tension I was pushing the wood too hard and thus bending the blade which

then touched the edge of the blade hole in the table.

 

Yes I know; Scrolling 101; go slow and let the saw do the work.

 

So now I do not push hard and also have to find a way to enlarge the hole.

All my grinding stones for my Dremel are to large to fit in the slot.

Any suggestions?

 

John

 

Old Dust

#7 scroll reverse is my blade of choice an sometimes #9 reverse.Your having a lot of blade slippage it sounds like .Hardwoods will pull your blade loose pushing to hard.I use alot of 3/4" plywood an push hard.I keep everything touching the blade clean &scratchy and don't touch the ends of the blade.I have good luck.I listen to the sound of the saw and can tell when the blade starts to loosen up.dw788's are very quiet.The cheap saws vi could never hear anything but the noise of the inferior machine ,which is  way to loud to notice a difference when the blade loosens up.My compound cutting i use white pine ,very soft to cut,try the cutting discs dremil has .I did a lot of scroll saw modification so i could fit my hand in it to change the blade it was a craftsman18"i used a dremil to do this.Take the table off the saw so you can rill the hole to the size you want.Later you can tape a playing card over the hole when cutting fragile thin fretwork.

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John, I cut 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 up to 2 x 2 on my ex 21.Sometimes I have a problem if I rush. I use a # 5 #7 and #9.The wood I have the most trouble with is Oak and cedar. You have to go really slow. I've been cutting xmas ornaments with the initial in the center and there 5 inches tall, plus birdhouses. They come out good when I go slow..

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