Jim McDonald Posted August 9, 2016 Report Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) Finally got enough bird houses cut to start thinking about finishing. Decided on clear Danish oil. Worried that I would have to "babysit" them and keep turning if I tried to soak them in a pan to keep all sides wet and submerged. Instead, I packed them in a pint canning jar and poured it completely full and then screwed on the lid. When soak time was done, I blew off the excess with the compressor and hung them to dry for a few hours. Worked like a charm. Good even finish and no drips or bubbles. These are destined to be Christmas presents, so I am going a few extra steps with them like painting the birds. Pictures when I get them done. Have about ten more glued up to drill and cut. (Work is much easier in poplar--started with maple and just about made firewood out of the whole lot.) Edited August 9, 2016 by Jim McDonald lawson56 and Scrolling Steve 2 Quote
Denny Knappen Posted August 9, 2016 Report Posted August 9, 2016 Great, Jim. That is exactly what I do, except I use 50% BLO. Quote
Lucky2 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 I like using the dip method also, it usually gives a nice finish. Len Quote
amazingkevin Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 Ha ! more tips and tricks.I think i'll try thr soak method with my 196 birds i never finished off.thanks Quote
NC Scroller Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 I also make those mini bird houses and other compound items. When I have a bunch to finish I put them in a gallon Ziploc type bag and add the finish. This method works with poly or oil finishes. Quote
danny Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 WELL I AM CERTAINLY HAPPY TO OF READ ALL THESE POSTS. LEARNED A THING OR TWO. GREAT TIPS ON USING THE JAR AND ALSO THE ZIPLOC BAG. JUST HAPPEN TO HAVE A DOZEN BIRD HOUSES CUT AND READY FOR SOME FINISHING. JUST LOVE THIS FAMILY OF SCROLLERS. Danny :+} Quote
danny Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE.... JIM THANKS....LOVE YOUR IDEA OF THE SOAKING IN A JAR. HOW LONG DO YOU LEAVE THIS SOAKING? AND....SCOTT....GREAT IDEA OF USING THE GALLON ZIPLOC BAG FOR THE ....SHINE PART.... AND HOW LONG DO YOU KEEP YOURS IN THE BAG? BOTH IDEAS REALLY, REALLY SOUND LIKE THE WILL WORK. Thanks.... Danny :+} Quote
meflick Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 Thanks for the tips on this from everyone. This newbie appreciates all you guys and gals share. Quote
NC Scroller Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE.... JIM THANKS....LOVE YOUR IDEA OF THE SOAKING IN A JAR. HOW LONG DO YOU LEAVE THIS SOAKING? AND....SCOTT....GREAT IDEA OF USING THE GALLON ZIPLOC BAG FOR THE ....SHINE PART.... AND HOW LONG DO YOU KEEP YOURS IN THE BAG? BOTH IDEAS REALLY, REALLY SOUND LIKE THE WILL WORK. Thanks.... Danny :+} Depends on the wood. For harder woods like walnut and maple 5 - 10 minutes seems long enough as they really do not soak in a lot even if left for hours. For softer woods like pine and poplar I do about 30 - 45 minutes. Make sure you do not store the oil / poly in those bags long term. Left long enough, the finish tends to break down the bags. Also I only use a bag one day. It will handle multiple batches done in a day but not multiple days. Quote
Jim McDonald Posted August 10, 2016 Author Report Posted August 10, 2016 And if you use a jar, you have to wipe the threads on the car and lid perfectly dry or you get to use a can opener to get into the jar the next time. (But, I've never glued a jar shut with finish ) Quote
spirithorse Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 Looking forward to seeing them, Jim, God Bless! Spirithorse Quote
lawson56 Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 Same here.Looking forward to seeing the finished houses.Sounds like an excellent tip. Quote
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