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Posted

Hi, I am new to scroll sawing and am trying to find out some information on a few things. First, I made some puzzles that I think they turned out alright.  But, I have a little to much space around the puzzle between the frame. I used a #3 spiral blade and the puzzle moves a little in the frame.  Any Ideas?  Also, if you stain something to dark how do you lighten it? I made this for my Vet. but, the stain just looks so dark now that it dried. Just asking! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks so very much!

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Trollmomjo

Posted (edited)

Yeah, I was trying out these little packages you can buy at the store. They worked so nice on my first picture I though they would look great on the next one. Funny, thing is different wood. lol Well, lesson learned! Thanks!

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Edited by trollmomjo
Posted

Hi Mary. There is an old saying in woodworking: "I cut it three times, and it's still to short". Meaning once you have cut it to small, you can't fix it. A spiral blade leaves too wide of a kurf.

For any puzzle, weather it's a zig saw puzzle or a stand up puzzle, you must use a flat blade. It makes a much thinner kurf. For jigsaw puzzles, you want to use a 2/0 or smaller blade. Flying Dutchman sells a puzzle blade that is a 3/0 skip tooth blade.

My advice is to recut the puzzle with a more appropriate blade.

Posted

Hi Mary. There is an old saying in woodworking: "I cut it three times, and it's still to short". Meaning once you have cut it to small, you can't fix it. A spiral blade leaves too wide of a kurf.

For any puzzle, weather it's a zig saw puzzle or a stand up puzzle, you must use a flat blade. It makes a much thinner kurf. For jigsaw puzzles, you want to use a 2/0 or smaller blade. Flying Dutchman sells a puzzle blade that is a 3/0 skip tooth blade.

My advice is to recut the puzzle with a more appropriate blade.

thanks for the tips and trick DGman.

Posted

I can't tell the thickness of the wood you are using. If you are using 1/4" thick wood then the Flying Dutchman puzzle blade is the best blade I have found.

 

If you are using 3/4" thick hardwoods such as cherry, walnut, and maple, the best blade I have found is the Pegas Modified Geometry #3,5,and 7. I have tried em all and switched to Pegas some time ago.

 

bb

Posted

You can use a palm sander to lighten the stain, if you've only stained it, and not finished it yet.  That will take the dark top off and leave the stain in the pores.  It's worth a try.

Welcome to the forum Trollmomjo

 

Russell

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