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Blades! I need help.


hawkeye10

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I spent most of the day moving a few things around and now I have a place for my scroll saw. For those that don't know I bought a DW 788 yesterday. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a stand, the one that came with the saw would never work if you sit down to saw. I bought an assortment of blades (one pack) but now I know I will need more. Of coarse I will start with easy patterns so I need blades to do that type of sawing. May if you know of a simple pattern or two show me that and tell me what blade to use on it. I am sure when I learn more I will have blades that I like to use more than others but now I don't know anything.

 

Tanks

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You can download free patterns from the pattern library here. There are also some practice patterns Travis made to help with straight lines,curves and angles. Sorry I probably won't be any help with blades. I use the Flying Dutchman new 3/0 spirals on almost everything I cut. Some people like spirals and some hate them.

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Blades seem to be a personal thing. Olson and Flying Dutchman are among the group of very good blades.

 

I do Intarsia and cut thicker wood using a FD Polar blade. For thin wood, I will used the FD ultra reverse blades as they have less splintering. In general, the thicker the wood the higher the blade number.

 

You would do good to get an assortment of good blades and try them out on different woods. Remember to let the blade cut and not push too hard. It will just take time to try them out and figure what works best for you.

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Most of the people ere will tell you to leave the box store blades at the big Box store and use FD or Olson'si prefer olson's, on most of yur projects you will either use  #3,#5 or #7 blades I use a # 9 every once in a while, but for you staik to the #3,#5' #7 do not rush your cuts and keep the tension to a ping.

IKE

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Here you go, just to totally confuse you even more.  I personally like Olson blades.  The PGT's are the best but they don't make them in a #3 so I use the Mach Speed.

 

As already mentioned, it's a personal preference and since they're so inexpensive you can try out several varieties until you find what you like best.

 

http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-16765698503918/2015-scrollchart.pdf

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You can download free patterns from the pattern library here. There are also some practice patterns Travis made to help with straight lines,curves and angles. Sorry I probably won't be any help with blades. I use the Flying Dutchman new 3/0 spirals on almost everything I cut. Some people like spirals and some hate them.

Rusty I did make some copies of the practice pattern Travis posted. I am going to try some spiral blades.

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Here you go, just to totally confuse you even more.  I personally like Olson blades.  The PGT's are the best but they don't make them in a #3 so I use the Mach Speed.

 

As already mentioned, it's a personal preference and since they're so inexpensive you can try out several varieties until you find what you like best.

 

http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-16765698503918/2015-scrollchart.pdf

Thanks for the PDF Iggy.

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Don, if you're just starting out in this great hobby, I think you should start out with a flat blade. They are the easiest to use, and you can cut a straight line with them. The stock thickness of the stock, will dictate what size of blade you should use. I would suggest that you do lots of practice cuts, and learn how to turn the wood so that you get nice crisp corners and points. Only after getting used to flat blades and how they cut, you should then try the spiral blades. As to what brand you should use, that's a decision for you to make. I prefer Flying Dutchman brand, but, Olson brand blades are ranked right up there also. 

Len

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Nobody knows!!!!!!!!!!!!   :D  

Really!!!!!!!!

 

Most of the people ere will tell you to leave the box store blades at the big Box store and use FD or Olson'si prefer olson's, on most of yur projects you will either use  #3,#5 or #7 blades I use a # 9 every once in a while, but for you staik to the #3,#5' #7 do not rush your cuts and keep the tension to a ping.

IKE

but Ike does give a great suggestion.............

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I spent most of the day moving a few things around and now I have a place for my scroll saw. For those that don't know I bought a DW 788 yesterday. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a stand, the one that came with the saw would never work if you sit down to saw. I bought an assortment of blades (one pack) but now I know I will need more. Of coarse I will start with easy patterns so I need blades to do that type of sawing. May if you know of a simple pattern or two show me that and tell me what blade to use on it. I am sure when I learn more I will have blades that I like to use more than others but now I don't know anything.

 

Tanks

Not knowing what kind of wood your going to practice on all i can say is.Have at least 4 teeth in contact with the wood at all times as a starter.A #5-#7 blade is an all round blade for most thicknesses of wood.

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Welcome to the addiction. It is a frustrating yet wonderful world. As you progress you will  find what works best for you I have settled into the the flying dutchman blades. Other prefer a different blade. Not to add to the confusion but, Online blades are pretty decent. You can get them from Seyco.com or Judy Roberts site. I do like the #7 blades they sell. 

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Most of the people ere will tell you to leave the box store blades at the big Box store and use FD or Olson'si prefer olson's, on most of yur projects you will either use  #3,#5 or #7 blades I use a # 9 every once in a while, but for you staik to the #3,#5' #7 do not rush your cuts and keep the tension to a ping.

IKE

Yesterday I bought some Olson #3-#5-#7 blades from the Wooden Teddy Bear. I bought my saw from Woodcraft so I bought a multi pack of Olson blades to get started with. Maybe they will last till I get my order from WTB. If I don't break them all.   :roll:    :)

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If you are breaking blades, there are two main causes:

1. Insufficient blade tension.  The blade should ping if you pluck it like a guitar string.  You will learn the tone you like best. I run a little tighter than most, so my blades have a higher tone.

 

2. Pushing too hard or pushing sideways.  Let the blade do the work.  There is a dance between speed and feed.  Like anything else, it takes a bit of practice.  Everyone here learned by breaking a few

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I am a spiral blade fan, and use them a lot, BUT, I agree with the above comments from most scrollers here, start out and get comfortable with flat blades before trying spiral blades.  Spirals are good for the intricate fret work, but not other things, like the letter/word cutting and thicker woods, puzzles,,,

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I am a spiral blade fan, and use them a lot, BUT, I agree with the above comments from most scrollers here, start out and get comfortable with flat blades before trying spiral blades.  Spirals are good for the intricate fret work, but not other things, like the letter/word cutting and thicker woods, puzzles,,,

 

That certainly is the conventional wisdom and advice that I would agree with.  However, I know of one fellow in our scroll saw club who did things a little differently.  He joined our club a number of years ago, despite never having used a scroll saw.  He had a friend that was in the club and he thought it might be an interesting hobby with which to occupy his retirement free time.  So he hung around for awhile, listening and asking questions, but never doing any actual scrolling.  He eventually bought a new Dewalt saw, but it was probably a couple years before he ever got it out of the box.  His slow start not withstanding, once he started scrolling, he took to it like a fish to water.  He bought some Baltic Birch ply and started practicing.  For some reason he started out using spirals, I guess mainly because the patterns he liked to practice with were better suited to spiral blades.  Each month he had at least 3 or 4 new projects to show on our brag table and the speed with which he developed his skills was astonishing.  To this day, several years later and dozens of the most intricate fretwork portraits under his belt, he has yet to use a straight blade.  He says that when he finds time, he'll teach himself how to use straight blades.  He wants to eventually build some big fretwork clocks.  I have no doubt he will, someday. 

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That certainly is the conventional wisdom and advice that I would agree with.  However, I know of one fellow in our scroll saw club who did things a little differently.  He joined our club a number of years ago, despite never having used a scroll saw.  He had a friend that was in the club and he thought it might be an interesting hobby with which to occupy his retirement free time.  So he hung around for awhile, listening and asking questions, but never doing any actual scrolling.  He eventually bought a new Dewalt saw, but it was probably a couple years before he ever got it out of the box.  His slow start not withstanding, once he started scrolling, he took to it like a fish to water.  He bought some Baltic Birch ply and started practicing.  For some reason he started out using spirals, I guess mainly because the patterns he liked to practice with were better suited to spiral blades.  Each month he had at least 3 or 4 new projects to show on our brag table and the speed with which he developed his skills was astonishing.  To this day, several years later and dozens of the most intricate fretwork portraits under his belt, he has yet to use a straight blade.  He says that when he finds time, he'll teach himself how to use straight blades.  He wants to eventually build some big fretwork clocks.  I have no doubt he will, someday. 

It is certainly possible, Charles Dearing says he has never use a flat blade.  I am building a fret work box, I say building, I have finished all the scrolling, shich I did with 3/0 spiral blades, but I still take it out and sand on it occasionally.  Why, because I could not get as clean cuts as I would have had I used a flat blade, not as sharp pointed inside corners and a ton more fuzzies to clean off.  Fact this is the project that taught me I need to start learning flat blades, which I have done.  But it is to each his own.  I love spirals, but now I love flat blades also.  They both have their places. 

 

By the way, I watch a Charle Dearing video or something where he said he could get a sharp inside cut with a spiral.  I have tried and tried to do what he said, but I have been unable to do it.  I keep trying, maybe some day....

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In my very, very limited experience I discovered two things. 1. A flat blade was fantastic for straighter lines and points and when you got a little off course it was easy to correct.  2.  With spiral blades the curves and odd shapes were easier, but when things went to hell, they went fast and it was more difficult to correct course without it looking like I'd drank a 30 pack before I started.  

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