Cutting Puzzles

[woodchux]

Gettting into more scrollsawing, and decided to try making a few simple wood puzzles. When cutting out the pieces to make the pieces fit easier, should the blade be angled a bit (say 5 degrees) or should the blade be perpendiculat to the table? Your input is appreciated.

Edited September 4, 2016 by woodchux

[NC Scroller]

You want to be perpendicular to the table.  That way the pieces can be inserted from the front or back.

[meflick]

Thanks for asking and Thanks Scott for answering.  While I am not yet ready to try and cut any puzzle - its good to know if and when that day arrives. 

[Scrolling Steve]

I am not a puzzle guy, but would like to try my hand at it.....Thanks for the info !

[Phantom Scroller]

Scott hit it on the nail and remember you can buy puzzle blades depending whether it's a child's puzzle or not and need them to fit loosely or tight and I have a puzzle liquid to coat the puzzle until I found mod podge did the same thing and is good for sticking the picture to the wood as well just coat the wood and coat the picture and use an old credit card to remove excess podge works a treat. Roly

Edited September 4, 2016 by Phantom Scroller

[meflick]

Thanks for sharing that bit of information as well Roly.  Always good to know things ahead of time before trying it for the first time. 

[NC Scroller]

When I cut freestanding puzzles for kids I use 3/4" stock and a #5 FD UR or a #5 Olson PGT blade. You want a little extra kerf to ease the assembly. If making a free standing puzzle for an adult I use a #3 or #1 FD UR. If I am doing a flat puzzle like a jigsaw picture puzzle I use FD puzzle blades. I thin they are roughly a size #1.

[amazingkevin]

Gettting into more scrollsawing, and decided to try making a few simple wood puzzles. When cutting out the pieces to make the pieces fit easier, should the blade be angled a bit (say 5 degrees) or should the blade be perpendiculat to the table? Your input is appreciated.

Cut some freehand puzzle pieces ,your design to see how you like it when putting them together.The bigger the blade the easyier to go together.Most important rule is make sure your blade is 90degrees to the table .Or else they won't go together or come apart

[hbird23]

I made some dinosaur puzzles for my son years ago using 1 3/4" pine. Make sure you don't add any side pressure on your blade like I did or your blade will bow and the pieces can't b removed from either direction. I did start using a #7 or #9 blade to give me a wider kerf for easier puzzle piece removal. That also make it a little loser though.

Edited September 5, 2016 by hbird23

[woodchux]

Many "Thanks" for all your comments, and ideas. I'll keep practicing scrolling as to what will work for me. Be safe.

W'chux

[banderson]

I can't add to what has been said above, but I will confirm it.  Make sure the blade is 90 degrees.  I did a puzzle where the blade was just off. Some pieces fit in front and other fit in through the backr.  Don't push the blade because it will bow the blade.  I would suggest starting with 1/2" thick wood.  It is a little more forgiving on blade deflection and if the blade is not perfect 90 degrees.  I use a #5 blade on 3/4" and less material and a #7 blade on thicker stock.  Puzzles are a great way to practice following a line.  No one notices if there was blade drift.

[Iguanadon]

As already stated, blade needs to be perpendicular, exactly 90 degrees and try not to put any pressure (flex) on the blade as you're cutting or your pieces will only slide out in one direction if using thick stock.

 

I use 3/4" poplar with a #3 blade for my animal puzzles which I then coat with mineral oil and I use 3/4" pine with a #7 blade for my dinosaurs because I dip them in watered down paint to add color and it makes the wood swell slightly.

 

 

[meflick]

Thanks for giving these additional tips and tricks. 

[MrsN]

good luck with your puzzles! I hope you come back and show them to us.

[Greenie]

I always wanted to try a puzzle but I always talk myself out of it

[ike]

When I start with a puzzle I set my blade square with the table using a 2" square if cutting thick stock over 1/4 " Then I let the blade do all the  work not much pressure on the blade. and when going around corners no side pressure on the blade.  

IKE