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Diamond in the Rough


Rockytime

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Well I got it home. Bought it in Monument, CO. Hour and 20 minutes to get there and two hours to get home. Five o'clock traffic. The saw worked very well. It looks rough. I think it was just used to store things on the table. It needs a good cleaning and waxing. It was buried in dust and old oil hardened on it. Table would not tilt as it was bound up. I've started disassembling it and what do you know, a beautiful saw under all that grime. I'm posting pix of how I unloaded it. I'll re-post when it gets cleaned up. I'm excited. $195 well spent.

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Well I got it home. Bought it in Monument, CO. Hour and 20 minutes to get there and two hours to get home. Five o'clock traffic. The saw worked very well. It looks rough. I think it was just used to store things on the table. It needs a good cleaning and waxing. It was buried in dust and old oil hardened on it. Table would not tilt as it was bound up. I've started disassembling it and what do you know, a beautiful saw under all that grime. I'm posting pix of how I unloaded it. I'll re-post when it gets cleaned up. I'm excited. $195 well spent.

Proofs in the  in the pudding,show us what she can do!

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Well Les you have an RBI saw. Now the thing is I have no clue what year or model that is. They do not make 16 saws any more. The very first 16 saw did not come with a VS motor and was belt driven on the side. This model , being my guess would be the next generation. There is no quick release in either the front or the back. You have a thumb screw on the side in the front and you have a knob in the back to release and add tension, much like the early Hegner saws. The next generation had a quick release lever in the back that wore out at times from having to do that every time you want to release the blade. It had a VEE shaped block back there much like what the Hawks have today. It too had no front quick release. With being 16" there should be no problem reaching over but does become one pain in the butt if doing alot of fret work with a lot of holes. You will probably notice vibration on the upper top speeds. The bigger the saw the more mass and wider stance of the table helps eliminate that. If you scroll in those speeds you may need to weight it down. It is a very reliable motor. 

 

A little cleaning up and you are good to go. Have fun and happy scrolling. For the price not bad at all. 

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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The used RBI Hawk 226 VS Ultra I picked up off of Craigslist had even worse table issues cause by the previous owner storing paint cans on the Hawk's aluminum table.  The ferrous metal of the paint can rims interacted with the aluminum table surface and created some deep pitting.  I used emery cloth on a sanding block to remove the pitting and resurfaced the entire table top.  When done, I applied several coats of Bostik Glidecoat to seal and protect the surface.

 

The only downside I encountered when I did this is the factory finish for the Hawk's table is a mat finish (non-shiny) aluminum .  The emory cloth sanding revealed just a hint of minute graininess to the aluminum on the tabletop.  I left the surface with the satin-finish sanding marks which disguise this graininess but if you have a vision of shining the table top to a high polish, you will be disappointed.

 

The Bostic Glidecoat is a great product that lowers the friction and does not seem to transfer to the project.  I use it on all of my saw table surfaces.

 

I should add that the rubber air bladder is notorious for getting dried out and brittle.  When this happens, the screw that attaches it to the articulating arm will pull out of it and tear the aged rubber - no more air through the saw dust blower.  Replacements are available from Bushton Mfg and the part is easily replaced.  I also had to replace the plastic T-bolts as the plastic 'T's were brittle as well.  The arm retention spring also failed on my old saw - again an inexpensive part and very easy installation.  Those were the only items I needed to replace on mine.

 

Good luck.

Edited by Blaughn
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