Stack cutting

[dgman]

I have learned a few things about stack cutting lately and I was having tear out problems.  It wasn't the blade that was causing the issue, it was the drill bit.  It would clog up and push the wood though.  The hole would look clean but when the blade hit the sides of the hole it would remove the broken chips from around the hole.  I would look at your drill bit if you are having trouble with your inside cuts.  Make sure you clear the chips from the bit when drilling.

 

I like your thinking Brad!

[SCROLLSAW703]

IMO, stack cutting is for making several pieces of the same thing several times in one cutting. Personally, I don't use anything but hardwood unless the client requests otherwise. As I mentioned in my other post, I use all rough sawn lumber in my projects. Big or small. I'll do a glue up of the type of lumber I need, & run it through the planer til I get the thickness I want. I cut my own feathers for our dream catchers that we make. The wood is planed to 3/16" thick, & I use either a #0 skip tooth, or a #1 polar blade, depending on the feather. 

 

If the project calls for it, I plane hardwood down to an 1/8", tape it with blue painters tape, & cut my pattern. I use a #1 polar blade & don't have any problems. I use a lot of glue ups of different hardwoods together. This is where a jointed edge on both edges comes to light, glue, & plenty of clamps. Sometimes I'll partially plane the pieces I'm gluing together in order to save some time with finish planing.

 

If my piece is going to be to big to go thru the planer when i'm done, I'll glue it in thirds, run those thru the planer, & the last one I'll do with a hand planer. Then start sanding. The first decision to be made before stack cutting is the project you're doin', then decide on the look of the end project, then, you decide on the lumber. 

 

If you want a plain look to your project, & are planning to stain it, use bb or something like it.  If you want the wood "look," & have plans of using shellac & lacquer, & polish it w/johnsons paste wax, use WOOD. It's up to you. 

[meflick]

Scrollsaw703 - thanks for your input and insight as well.  So much to learn. 

[ike]

I think I know what you mean.I always use a awl on the under side . It removes all the jagid edges the drill leaves. You might have the speed to low. but any way it enlarger the very entrance when bottom feeding and it isn't even noticed after cutting the pattern. The awl is one of my best accessories.
IKE

[NC Scroller]

I have learned a few things about stack cutting lately and I was having tear out problems.  It wasn't the blade that was causing the issue, it was the drill bit.  It would clog up and push the wood though.  The hole would look clean but when the blade hit the sides of the hole it would remove the broken chips from around the hole.  I would look at your drill bit if you are having trouble with your inside cuts.  Make sure you clear the chips from the bit when drilling.

Much to often we, myself include, tend to punch the drill bit through the wood and not let it drill through. To drill wood properly you should use a drill speed in the mid range unless your are using a fortsner bit. The you want the slowest speed. High speeds are for drilling metal. We should be using bits made for wood like brad point bits. Bits dull like saw blades and chisels. They need to be sharpened or replace periodically. Finally you should use a piece of scrap wood under the pieces you are drilling. That will work wonders for stopping bottom chip out.

[Sparkey]

I have never had a problem but I don't stack more than three.