Age Old discussion

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Lets bring back an age old discussion that probably has been asked since scrolling was invented. It is actually a 2 part question.

 

 

When you are cutting a project out that has a pattern and you attached to your wood and made all your entry holes. You now get ready to proceed to cut the pattern. When you follow the cut lines of the pattern, do you cut them down the center, stay on the inside of the pattern line or stay on the outside of the pattern line. ???

 

Second part, do you scroll right or left???

 

Lets have some fun.

 

[MrsN]

my 2 cents.

If the line I am following is close to a blade width, I cut right down the middle. If the pattern is just a remove the black/white type I cut just to the waste side of the line. 

The last thing  I cut, I had the waste on the left side of the blade

[Scrolling Steve]

On the line or inside ......I just recently noticed that I am more comfortable cutting counter clock wise...I can cut in either direction but mostly cut left....Maybe it is because I am a Bottom feeder ....My 2cents

Edited September 17, 2016 by Scrolling Steve

[Ron Johnson]

whatever you deside (inside or outside of line) follow suit throughout the cutting of pattern. I usually cut on the outside and start cutting pattern from left to right. But this can vary depending on pattern.

[stoney]

I usually try to stay right on the line except when I don't.   Just kidding on some patterns I cut I may leave or take out more of the waste area depending what I find appropriate.   On some patterns staying on the line may make an area to fragile for my taste.   As far as scrolling right or left I do both again depending on the pattern.  

[hawkeye10]

Katie what you say makes since so I will go along with you. Right now it seems I cut on both sides of the line and every once in awhile I hit the center.    I have got to get better. Like I have said before "y'all make it look easy".

 

PS - I am having fun.

[Scrappile]

1.  I usually start in a detailed area to get some of the hard stuff out of the way and lend more support to the fragile pieces.

 

2.  I follow the lines, unless it doesn't appear there will been enough support to hold the piece next to where I am cutting.  In that case I go to either side of the line to give more support.  Whatever you do don't make sudden corrections.  Drift back to were you want to be if possible.  Less noticeable.

 

3.  Normally I scroll clockwise but sometimes I can't.  No sure what the difference it makes, more just habit.

[MTCowpoke22]

I mostly follow along with what Scrappile said. However, I don't really have a preference for right or left, it all depends on the pattern, and what makes sense and how I'm feeling when I'm cutting. 

[trackman]

Usually cut down the middle of the line unless like said by others makes area to thin. I start in middle of pattern & get smallest cut first. Most of the time I cut clockwise

[Phantom Scroller]

Good question they're guide lines if I think I need a little more meat I'll move over and vice versa the only time I stay in the middle is if it's a detail piece eyes etc feel the force Obi-wan.  :lol:I'm having fun. Roly

[jerry1939]

Re: Clockwise or Counter-clockwise.

 

I put the entry hole near the left side of the line. Curve to the right and saw about 1/4" on the line. Back out to the entry hole, rotate and back onto the line. Now when I saw to the left, the first cut automatically guides the blade onto the short line to be finished.

 

Confused by the explanation ?? Me too.

 

jerry

[ike]

I usually cut down the center of the line unless there is mattering parts then I cut down the inside of the line. it is a lot easier to take more out than  have a sloppy fit. There isn't a add on tool  to make a good fit.\

IKE

[scrollerpete]

I cut pretty well the same as Scrappile so far it has worked for me.

Mostly the patterns dictate the way to attack the project, I liked to get rid of the hard stuff first and keep the easy for the end.

[hotshot]

On very small detailed work, the width of the line makes all the difference, so cutting on the line, or off the line creates significant change.  I create/modify most of my patterns, so I make the lines very thin, then when cutting, I stay in the waste area, just barely touching the line.  So, by design, these are created such that the the border between line and waste is where the most detail is.

 

That said, I recently cut a reduced pattern in the "Fox Chapel" style, and had to follow the inside edge of the line in order to make it work. It is so hard to cut accurately (see where the blade is against a black line), when you are trying to stay in, but to the side of the line. The cutting was sloppy, so  I ended up pulling the whole thing up in photoshop, re-working that pattern to my own style, and re-cutting it.

 

On full size stuff, I usually don't even worry about it and cut it Hawkeye style :-)

 

------Randy

Edited September 17, 2016 by hotshot

[Lucky2]

I cut pretty much the same way as MrsN does.

Len

[hawkeye10]

On very small detailed work, the width of the line makes all the difference, so cutting on the line, or off the line creates significant change.  I create/modify most of my patterns, so I make the lines very thin, then when cutting, I stay in the waste area, just barely touching the line.  So, by design, these are created such that the the border between line and waste is where the most detail is.

 

That said, I recently cut a reduced pattern in the "Fox Chapel" style, and had to follow the inside edge of the line in order to make it work. It is so hard to cut accurately (see where the blade is against a black line), when you are trying to stay in, but to the side of the line. The cutting was sloppy, so  I ended up pulling the whole thing up in photoshop, re-working that pattern to my own style, and re-cutting it.

 

On full size stuff, I usually don't even worry about it and cut it Hawkeye style :-)

 

------Randy

Hawkeye style!!! Randy you sure are in trouble.       

[RangerJay]

For most projects I don't think it makes a heck of a lot of difference - as long as you remain consistent within the project.  

 

Where it does make a difference is in fragile fretwork - here it seems critical to make sure you aren't going to make an already fragile piece even more fragile - so it becomes very important to maximize the strength between voids - meaning you do not want to cut into the lines - and - where it seems logical and appropriate - work to provide additional strength to the bridges by giving the line a bit of very subtle safety factor by staying away from it.

 

And obviously it also makes a heck of a difference cutting parts that need to fit together - here it is really important to figure out what the thickness of the line means to your project ahead of time - and cut to ensure the pieces will fit.

 

 

Jay

[woodduck]

It varies but usually try to cut on the line except for when I wander off & mainly like to cut anticlock & always cut the small difficult parts first in case I make a mistake,makes it easier to throw it away & start again.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I have to say I am impressed that everyone is truly a master scroller here. It takes some adjusting as we cut out our patterns and just that little thing about fragile parts and adjusting thickness is something that is not taught in books that I know of or at least when I started some 35 years ago. But these and a few others mentioned here are things we learn as we grow into the hobby and hope they get passed on to new member who want to learn. I also agree about switching directions at times is necessary but I always like to keep the slant of the teeth to the line so that I can shave some if I need to. 

 

One other thing, there was a time or movement by pattern makers to make their patterns in red ink because easier to see. I suppose if you copy a pattern you maybe able to change ink color. But I see most patterns in black and white. 

 

Thanks all for posting and happy scrolling. 

[amazingkevin]

Lets bring back an age old discussion that probably has been asked since scrolling was invented. It is actually a 2 part question.

 

 

When you are cutting a project out that has a pattern and you attached to your wood and made all your entry holes. You now get ready to proceed to cut the pattern. When you follow the cut lines of the pattern, do you cut them down the center, stay on the inside of the pattern line or stay on the outside of the pattern line. ???

 

Second part, do you scroll right or left???

 

Lets have some fun.

I'm dead

 center cutting on the lines and i cut from left to right

my 2 cents.

If the line I am following is close to a blade width, I cut right down the middle. If the pattern is just a remove the black/white type I cut just to the waste side of the line. 

The last thing  I cut, I had the waste on the left side of the blade

 

 

whatever you deside (inside or outside of line) follow suit throughout the cutting of pattern. I usually cut on the outside and start cutting pattern from left to right. But this can vary depending on pattern.

 

 

I usually try to stay right on the line except when I don't.   Just kidding on some patterns I cut I may leave or take out more of the waste area depending what I find appropriate.   On some patterns staying on the line may make an area to fragile for my taste.   As far as scrolling right or left I do both again depending on the pattern.

 

 

Katie what you say makes since so I will go along with you. Right now it seems I cut on both sides of the line and every once in awhile I hit the center.    I have got to get better. Like I have said before "y'all make it look easy".

 

PS - I am having fun.

 

 

1.  I usually start in a detailed area to get some of the hard stuff out of the way and lend more support to the fragile pieces.

 

2.  I follow the lines, unless it doesn't appear there will been enough support to hold the piece next to where I am cutting.  In that case I go to either side of the line to give more support.  Whatever you do don't make sudden corrections.  Drift back to were you want to be if possible.  Less noticeable.

 

3.  Normally I scroll clockwise but sometimes I can't.  No sure what the difference it makes, more just habit.

I scroll form the inside out on a pattern

 

I mostly follow along with what Scrappile said. However, I don't really have a preference for right or left, it all depends on the pattern, and what makes sense and how I'm feeling when I'm cutting. 

 

 

Usually cut down the middle of the line unless like said by others makes area to thin. I start in middle of pattern & get smallest cut first. Most of the time I cut clockwise

 

 

Good question they're guide lines if I think I need a little more meat I'll move over and vice versa the only time I stay in the middle is if it's a detail piece eyes etc feel the force Obi-wan.  :lol:I'm having fun. Roly

 

 

Re: Clockwise or Counter-clockwise.

 

I put the entry hole near the left side of the line. Curve to the right and saw about 1/4" on the line. Back out to the entry hole, rotate and back onto the line. Now when I saw to the left, the first cut automatically guides the blade onto the short line to be finished.

 

Confused by the explanation ?? Me too.

 

jerry

 

 

I usually cut down the center of the line unless there is mattering parts then I cut down the inside of the line. it is a lot easier to take more out than  have a sloppy fit. There isn't a add on tool  to make a good fit.\

IKE

 

 

I cut pretty well the same as Scrappile so far it has worked for me.

Mostly the patterns dictate the way to attack the project, I liked to get rid of the hard stuff first and keep the easy for the end.

 

 

On very small detailed work, the width of the line makes all the difference, so cutting on the line, or off the line creates significant change.  I create/modify most of my patterns, so I make the lines very thin, then when cutting, I stay in the waste area, just barely touching the line.  So, by design, these are created such that the the border between line and waste is where the most detail is.

 

That said, I recently cut a reduced pattern in the "Fox Chapel" style, and had to follow the inside edge of the line in order to make it work. It is so hard to cut accurately (see where the blade is against a black line), when you are trying to stay in, but to the side of the line. The cutting was sloppy, so  I ended up pulling the whole thing up in photoshop, re-working that pattern to my own style, and re-cutting it.

 

On full size stuff, I usually don't even worry about it and cut it Hawkeye style :-)

 

------Randy

 

 

I cut pretty much the same way as MrsN does.

Len

 

 

Hawkeye style!!! Randy you sure are in trouble.       

 

 

For most projects I don't think it makes a heck of a lot of difference - as long as you remain consistent within the project.  

 

Where it does make a difference is in fragile fretwork - here it seems critical to make sure you aren't going to make an already fragile piece even more fragile - so it becomes very important to maximize the strength between voids - meaning you do not want to cut into the lines - and - where it seems logical and appropriate - work to provide additional strength to the bridges by giving the line a bit of very subtle safety factor by staying away from it.

 

And obviously it also makes a heck of a difference cutting parts that need to fit together - here it is really important to figure out what the thickness of the line means to your project ahead of time - and cut to ensure the pieces will fit.

 

 

Jay

 

 

It varies but usually try to cut on the line except for when I wander off & mainly like to cut anticlock & always cut the small difficult parts first in case I make a mistake,makes it easier to throw it away & start again.

 

 

I have to say I am impressed that everyone is truly a master scroller here. It takes some adjusting as we cut out our patterns and just that little thing about fragile parts and adjusting thickness is something that is not taught in books that I know of or at least when I started some 35 years ago. But these and a few others mentioned here are things we learn as we grow into the hobby and hope they get passed on to new member who want to learn. I also agree about switching directions at times is necessary but I always like to keep the slant of the teeth to the line so that I can shave some if I need to. 

 

One other thing, there was a time or movement by pattern makers to make their patterns in red ink because easier to see. I suppose if you copy a pattern you maybe able to change ink color. But I see most patterns in black and white. 

 

Thanks all for posting and happy scrolling. 

with red ink you can see where your blade is at all times

[SCROLLSAW703]

I usually start in the middle of the project & work out. If it has a lot of tiny detail, I'll move to that after I've got some of the center cut out. In most all of my projects, I use rough sawn lumber. So I can plane it to whatever thickness I want. I usually use 1/2" or there abouts. When cutting small detail, I use a #0 or #1 blade, & stay on the line as much as I can. Especially if it's close to other pieces in the project. I've found that cutting that way gives me a little more room to use a bigger blade on the parts around the detail. 

 

Pieces that are prone to break after they're cut, I save those for last. That way I don't have to glue things back in in place, & try to get it accurate. Following the lines becomes a preference after awhile, imo. Some places I do, other parts of the project, I may get off the line just a touch. And I usually scroll clockwise. I reckon bcause I'm right handed. Never thought about it. 

 

I cut my own feathers for our dream catchers. The material thickness is 3/16". I'll start at the top of feather, & cut clockwise. Less breakage, & it's easier to follow the curves on the edges. 

 

We have a FB page if you're interested in looking at our work. Its under Sawdust Haven. My apologies for the ramble. Enjoy the day.

[lawson56]

Myself I follow the line line until I get close to s sensitive area,Then I allow myself some more room and get just to the left or right of that line.It may not be much,but every little bit helps.

[rdatelle]

I usually cut on the line from right to left. If I have a lot of detail I will cut to the right of the line to give the piece a little more stability. A lot depends on the pattern your cutting to.

[CharleyL]

I've never given it much thought, but tend to favor the scrap side of the line. Any errors can be sanded off, or just go back and cut it off. For larger work I tend to cut on the line.

 

Better, shadow free, lighting makes a huge difference in your ability to see where you are cutting.

That's why I went to the two LED gooseneck lights from Lowes, one on each side of the saw blade, shining down at the cut point at about 45 deg. The results are bright white shadow free light and they don't get more than mildly warm with hours of use, so there's no chance of burning your face or hands when accidentally touching them. I make many less errors when there are no blade shadows to confuse my eyes.

 

I've been a bit tardy with my plans to post a drawing of the two pieces that need to be made to complete this bracket, but I will do so if anyone wants to make one and needs a drawing to add the lights to their 788.

 

A few tips.

 

Buy the lights from Lowes with the spring clip base - the weighted base version isn't the same inside, will be more difficult to modify, and won't fit my bracket design. The lights presently cost $19.95 each.

 

The gooseneck light must be removed from the spring clip, which will require removal of the wires from inside of the lamp - unsoldering them from a PC board inside the top end of the light. Polarity is important - notice the line along one of the wires and the + and - symbols near the solder points on the PC board. Don't get them switched when you re-assemble the lights.

 

Re-assembly goes easy after the gooseneck of each light is attached to the new bracket. Just re-thread the wires up through the gooseneck and solder them to the PC board in the correct positions. Then replace the PC board and the lamp bezel with the three small screws to hold everything together.

 

The bracket is easy to make.  See the picture below of the un-mounted bracket by itself with the two bolts to hold the upper and lower pieces together.. I added some non skid tape inside the bracket (black stuff) to make it hold tighter to the upper saw arm. If the bracket fits tight, you don't need it.

 

I made the upper piece of the bracket from 1/16" thick aluminum for easy bending. I used the upper arm of the saw to form the aluminum around it by hand, leaving the ends long and then cutting them off after I bent the two 90 deg bends at the bottom using my vice. These bends should be just above the bottom edge of the scroll saw upper arm, so bolts through the holes in the ends and through the bottom part of the bracket will pull the two pieces of the bracket tight around the upper saw arm. This ability to tighten up the bracket around the arm is the only important dimension of this bracket. The rest can be almost any way you want to make it.

 

The bottom piece is just flat 1/8" aluminum with two bolt holes to attach the top piece and two holes to attach the light goosenecks as can be seen in the pictures. Notice that one side of the bracket is longer than the other. This is because of the shape of the saw, and the need to mount the gooseneck part of LED light further away from one side of the saw arm.

 

I used tie-wraps to hold the wires along the left side of the upper saw arm. The original power switches ended up next to the rear casting of the saw, so I just tie-wrapped them there. I have a power strip mounted to the left side of my rear saw leg and the foot pedal and saw are plugged into it, so I plugged the wall wort power supplies for the LED lights into it, and I only have the one power cord from the outlet strip to plug into the wall.

 

I made a post about these lights last December, but when I searched for a link so I could add it here

I couldn't find anything older than Jan 2016, So here is a bit of a shortened kind of re-post plus the pictures of the lights in use on my DeWalt 788. 

 

Charley

Edited September 18, 2016 by CharleyL

[WayneMahler]

I'll stay with Scrappile on this one. Some of the patterns I cut have detail and very fragile ares. I remove them first . Mainly I split the line but that depends on the pattern. As for cutting left or right, I go both once again depending on the pattern and whats if any had to be removed first.