whopsal Posted September 18, 2016 Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 I want to saw pattern#1340 Songbirds in 3mm. plywood. How do I do this without the top veneer coming away in the thin sections? I usually work with thicker ply but for this I want to try thin thin. Thanks Brian amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 (edited) Brian...Stack three or four and cut a bunch. I bet ... two or four will turn out great. If you only want to cut one... I don't understand ... Either way, use a small blade. Also, blades cut on the down stroke ... so it's the bottom you might have a problem with. So..... when you stack cut, usually it's the bottom one that takes the abuse. A picture of pattern#1340 Songbirds would be nice... could help better. Edited September 19, 2016 by LarryEA whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 I would never consider cutting thin ply without a "sacrifice piece" on top. I use 1/4" luan ply, which is inexpensive. Cheap insurance, for the time that you will spend on your project. jerry ronniedev and whopsal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Pellow Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 If you have good 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood there should be no problem. I cut that all the time and I never need a sacrifice piece on top. whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 I have not had a problem with the top piece. When I cut this BB I normally stack cut them. As has been stated the bottom piece takes the abuse. You can help eliminate that by using a zero clearance at the blade. Playing cards work good for this. Cut into them, tape them down and go to cutting whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 In addition to sacrificing, a thicker stack will give you better control of the work and less chance of the blade digging into the thin board. I never cut anything thinner than 1/4" without stacking. whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whopsal Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Thanks for your help guys.The ply is not the best, next time I will see if I can get Baltic pine localy,we dont have all the choices you have hear down under.I will give the idea of a scrap piece and stack. I will be using spiral blades are any better than others? Thanks Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 I want to saw pattern#1340 Songbirds in 3mm. plywood. How do I do this without the top veneer coming away in the thin sections? I usually work with thicker ply but for this I want to try thin thin. Thanks Brian A puzzle blade sounds good for one.It leaves a fine cut.A good rule of thumb is to have at least 4 teeth in contact with the wood at all times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 I enjoy cutting thin ply but I cut two or three at a time. My favorite blade is. #2 O/R. I do not get any tear out on either top or bottom and I do not need to worry about a zero clearance when I do it that way. I find using a puzzle blade some times does not make a sharp corner very well and I have to wait for the blade to get lined up in the direction I am headed. Hope this helps some Dick heppnerguy whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Let me say I have not cut thin ply but I bet it would help to put tape on first. You could also put the finish on first and let it dry overnight. Just throwing ideas out there so maybe your best bet is to follow what others have said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 (edited) When I cut thin and/or very soft wood, I use the Flying Dutchman Penguin Silver 2/0. (PS-2/0). It is a very non-aggressive blade. It comes in larger sizes if you do not like that small of a blade. There is a Penguin Silver Reverse (PSR) also that is a little more aggressive. It also works go on thin/soft wood. PS Look for Russian Baltic Birch plywood. You referred to "Baltic pine". If there is such a thing it is not what you want. Edited September 19, 2016 by Scrappile whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 Hawkeye, I have never had any luck with tape on plywood. Even the easy to remove blue/purple type tape pulls off wood fibers when you remove it and will often take delicate fret parts with it. Beside if doing a detailed fret piece it can some times take almost as long to remove the little pieces of tape as it did to cut the pattern. Been there done that. heppnerguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 Hawkeye, I have never had any luck with tape on plywood. Even the easy to remove blue/purple type tape pulls off wood fibers when you remove it and will often take delicate fret parts with it. Beside if doing a detailed fret piece it can some times take almost as long to remove the little pieces of tape as it did to cut the pattern. Been there done that. Thanks Scott for your post. I will take your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 Hawkeye, I have never had any luck with tape on plywood. Even the easy to remove blue/purple type tape pulls off wood fibers when you remove it and will often take delicate fret parts with it. Beside if doing a detailed fret piece it can some times take almost as long to remove the little pieces of tape as it did to cut the pattern. Been there done that. I could not agree more....no tape on fret work...It will become your enemy quickly. Pattern directly on the wood and mineral spirits to remove...way faster....and no wood fiber torn out Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 We all have our "preferred" method, as it should be. On a piece like this I will always put a sacrifice board ON TOP, with the grain in the opposite direction. The top board prevents any stress on the piece you are making. Since the bottom is hid when it's glued to the backer, a "chip out" would not be noticed. I use FD UR blades. jerry whopsal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodduck Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Yes Brian I have trouble getting decent ply also & have turned to using Marine ply Its a bit pricier but I find it works so much better only down side to it is you will maybe go through more blades because of the glue they use in this plywood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.