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Any Ideas would be appreciated


Dave Monk

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Dave as many have stated CA glue (aka Super Glue) is the only good option at this point.  You have loose pieces because some of the plaque did not get glue applied to it when you did the glue up.  Now let me suggest a better way to glue to prevent that from happening again.  This is a trick I learn from Dirk Boelman many years ago.  Get yourself one of those 1" painting  trim rollers.  The cheapie kind. They can be had at Lowes, Home Depot, your local hardware, and even Walmart.   Also get a length of black foam pipe insulation.  The diameter of which will fit over the wheel the paint roller sleeve is on.  Replace the paint roller sleeve with a like length of the pipe insulation. Then when you need to do a glue up squirt some glue (any brand wood glue) on a piece of wax paper.  Roll the foam applicator in the glue and then roll the glue onto the back of the piece.  You want a nice even coat.  Be generous but don't glob it on.  Just like paining a wall with paint.  After coating the back wait 2-3 minutes for it to start to tack up and them clamp your pieces together.  After the glue sets nothing will come apart or be loose.  The foam roller can be used 100's of times before replacing.  You can clean it with a wet paper towel immediately after use or after a couple uses peel the dried glue from the roller.  I prefer the latter method of cleaning.

 

Let me know if you want some pictures.

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Dave as many have stated CA glue (aka Super Glue) is the only good option at this point.  You have loose pieces because some of the plaque did not get glue applied to it when you did the glue up.  Now let me suggest a better way to glue to prevent that from happening again.  This is a trick I learn from Dirk Boelman many years ago.  Get yourself one of those 1" painting  trim rollers.  The cheapie kind. They can be had at Lowes, Home Depot, your local hardware, and even Walmart.   Also get a length of black foam pipe insulation.  The diameter of which will fit over the wheel the paint roller sleeve is on.  Replace the paint roller sleeve with a like length of the pipe insulation. Then when you need to do a glue up squirt some glue (any brand wood glue) on a piece of wax paper.  Roll the foam applicator in the glue and then roll the glue onto the back of the piece.  You want a nice even coat.  Be generous but don't glob it on.  Just like paining a wall with paint.  After coating the back wait 2-3 minutes for it to start to tack up and them clamp your pieces together.  After the glue sets nothing will come apart or be loose.  The foam roller can be used 100's of times before replacing.  You can clean it with a wet paper towel immediately after use or after a couple uses peel the dried glue from the roller.  I prefer the latter method of cleaning.

 

Let me know if you want some pictures.

 

Dave - not enough experience to give you insight but I would agree not sure I would try the nail gun.  It is a beautiful piece of work and would hate to see you have to start again.  :oops:

 

Scott - Thanks for passing on this great idea from Dirk.  I will have to try and remember to get the supplies and give it a try. :thumbs:

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Just another tip along the roller tip lines is to use a sponge. Whenever I need to glue a backboard to a piece I use a sponge. One of the real sponges and not a plastic one. I put some glue on a piece of wax paper and dab the sponge in and then dab the back of the project piece making sure not to get too much glue in the fret work edges. You can easily even it out by dabbing. Use it all the time. When done snip that section of sponge off and good to go for next time and no clean up needed. If you had a real large piece the roller is probably a better idea but for small projects a sponge works too. 

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I vote for gel CA glue, applied judiciously with a toothpick or something similar, if possible.  A 23 ga pin mailer might work, but it would be a last resort and only if it were loose enough to compromise the bond.  If it's just a loose spot, but otherwise the back is secure, I'd probably just leave it alone if I couldn't get a little glue in there.

 

I like the idea for the roller.  I read about this once before and wanted to try it.

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Got er done. This was the first job that I used a sponge roller to apply the glue. Usually I use a tiny glue bottle. I guess I was too stingy with the glue. I guess I have always been a rebel and do things a bit different. I tried using glue and was worried about making a mess out of it.  I took a 1/32" drill bit and found a 1/2" brad that was a touche bigger. I was very careful in measuring. Nothing cracked or broke so I am totally pleased. Thanks to all of you for your comments. dave

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I only heard about the small paint roller way of applying glue and I love it. No more glue oozing out from under the piece and exposing itself on the backer board. and everything gets the right amount of glue. I use the cloth rollers and wash them in the sink when i finish my glue ups.. I caught this trick somewhere during the  answer session of a familiar question someone had posted awhile back. I love this forum. I am  always learning something here

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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