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E 6000 Glue


Dave Monk

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I spray my backers with black lacquer,  glue my fret work on with Tightbond 2. When it is dry I coat the whole project with clear. I feel that my glue is not sticking real well to the black lacquer. I have read a lot of you all talking about E 6000 glue. Would it work well for this type of application? dave

 

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Dave in my opinion the answer is no. That stuff is messy and comes in a tube. It is good for spot gluing. I have used this stuff before but had failures after some time past. Stopped using it. If I am going to need a strong glue I will use a two part epoxy. ( System III T88 epoxy) But again for gluing fret work it would be messy because you can not really control the amount applied to the point you do not have squeeze out.

 

What I think you need to do is take a look at your method. What is the look you are after when done? Are you after a glossy finish on both the main piece and the backer. When you say black lacquer is that a gloss lacquer???  Why not use a water based paint so when you use the Titebond II it will adhere well to  the wood. If you are glossing after everything will then be glossed together. Not quite following your method. Anytime you you try gluing anything to a gloss finish you will have problems and thus the need for epoxy.  I would not use it for your application. As I said if you explain your thoughts and methods a bit more we can be more specific.   

 

Here is an example of that E6000 glue failure. At one time I used that to glue the gold trim rings on my trinket boxes. Had the rings come off after a couple years and probably would have been sooner if used alot. That was embarassing to say the least. Now use the epoxy I mentioned and so far no failures. And yes the glue was fresh. I do not trust it. 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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I spray my backers with black lacquer,  glue my fret work on with Tightbond 2. When it is dry I coat the whole project with clear. I feel that my glue is not sticking real well to the black lacquer. I have read a lot of you all talking about E 6000 glue. Would it work well for this type of application? dave

Dave I think you should try Weldbond glue. It does good gluing to paint and dries clear and faster than Titebond. It also doesn't take a lot of clamping pressure. When I can I use a 23 gauge pin nailer. These are very useful.

 

http://www.dickblick.com/products/weldbond-universal-adhesive/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=23912-1160&gclid=Cj0KEQjwyozABRDtgPTM0taCrKsBEiQATk6xDhbdFL9i8ELPR_ZQvILwq53nrAi3h77rXP53THxHL2waAu_e8P8HAQ

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Dave, I use a small 3" foam roller and put a thin layer of titebond over the entire surface and like Hawkeye , I have been known to use my 23ga. pin nailer to make sure it stays put .....I only use the pin nailer when the combined thickness is at least  1/2 so that the 3/8 pin does not go through the wood........Just my two cents, Steve. 

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I would suggest that when you spray your backer black that you identify areas that will not show through your cutting and put down some tape first to provide areas, especially around the edge, that are free of paint. Gluing works so much better wood to wood without the paint there. After that I just just Titebond II and sometimes a few dots of superglue to lock it in place if I think it might shift. Then clamp it up. Another thing I think a lot of people do is use too much glue, you need much less that you would think, just a thin coat will do, give it about 30 seconds to get tacky (then add superglue if you are going to) and put together.  

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Dave in my opinion the answer is no. That stuff is messy and comes in a tube. It is good for spot gluing. I have used this stuff before but had failures after some time past. Stopped using it. If I am going to need a strong glue I will use a two part epoxy. ( System III T88 epoxy) But again for gluing fret work it would be messy because you can not really control the amount applied to the point you do not have squeeze out.

 

What I think you need to do is take a look at your method. What is the look you are after when done? Are you after a glossy finish on both the main piece and the backer. When you say black lacquer is that a gloss lacquer???  Why not use a water based paint so when you use the Titebond II it will adhere well to  the wood. If you are glossing after everything will then be glossed together. Not quite following your method. Anytime you you try gluing anything to a gloss finish you will have problems and thus the need for epoxy.  I would not use it for your application. As I said if you explain your thoughts and methods a bit more we can be more specific.   

 

Here is an example of that E6000 glue failure. At one time I used that to glue the gold trim rings on my trinket boxes. Had the rings come off after a couple years and probably would have been sooner if used alot. That was embarassing to say the least. Now use the epoxy I mentioned and so far no failures. And yes the glue was fresh. I do not trust it. 

 

 

 

 

 

IMGP0431.jpg

 

 

 

 

IMGP0428.jpg

What a box and a half :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

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I paint my backers all the time and glue them on with Titebond II. I have made hundreds this way with NO fails. The big difference I see between your process and mine is I use flat black latex paint and not black lacquer. One coat of paint is all I need. I do allow my backers to dry over night before applying.

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Dave, I use thick CA glue the gel type to do this, it can be applied in thin lines and it holds the projects together real well. I find it easier to use then epoxy, and there's not much clean up afterwards.

Len 

 I use the same. I have a few pieces that I sprayed the backer a high gloss color then CA glued the fretwork on. So far so good.

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