Dremel burrs?

[BigD]

Has any one tried using a dremel rotary tool with diamond burrs for sanding, tidying up their scroll cuts?

I'm still very new to this and looking for an easy way of touching up some cuts.

[WayneMahler]

I use my Dremel for a lot of different things. Never for cleaning up fret work though. I would also think at high speeds the bit would want to burn the wood. I have used thin pieces of wood with sandpaper glued to them for cleaning up interior cuts that weren't just right or even just a piece of sandpaper cut into small strips.  Not sure if this is what your looking for in an answer. A lot would depend on the thickness of the cutting, type of wood, etc.... Maybe a picture of what you are trying to accomplish would help more. 

[Bill WIlson]

I have used the sanding buffs on my Dremel to clean up the fuzzies on back of portraits.  They work really well.  Run the Dremel at a low speed and use a light touch.  I haven't damaged anything delicate with it yet.  It's a little time consuming and at around $3-$4 each, it's not the cheapest option, but I've gotten pretty good results with them.

 

If you are talking about smoothing up the edges, I usually use small files or an Emory board, but the real key is to avoid having to do anything else to the cut edges, after cutting.  The right blade and plenty of practice will give you clean, smooth edges, right off the saw.

[Rockytime]

I've ordered some sanding mops to use when I get them.

[BigD]

I'm very new to the scroll game so my cutting is a long way from perfect yet. Still learning loads about cutting speeds, blades, and technique etc.

This is what I'm trying.

Some of the finer lines could with a light reshaping and just a general light sanding. I was thinking the diamond burrs are very fine, so with a light tough I could clean up easily. I've used sand paper and needle files on the other couple of things I've done, just thought a power tool would make it quicker and easier.

[danny]

Here is my 2cents about Fuzzies on the back of a Portrait.  THERE JUST ISN'T ANY TO SPEAK OF.  Honest.

 

I Mainly use Baltic Birch 1/8" 1/4".   I cut Portraits 2 at a time using 1/4" BB.   1/2" I have found is My Comfortable limit. 

So here is What I call My Secret to Hardly any Fuzzies.  USE A FDUR#1 BLADE.  Honest. 

 

Usually all I do is sand with 300grit lightly on the back.  Anyway...........Just my 2 cents...........................Danny  :+}

[Lucky2]

Dave, I have four or five Dremel tools, and I use them on a lot of different projects. But, I have never used them on my fretwork, I'm afraid of what might happen. I use a mouse sander to remove any fuzzies, and I've never had a problem develop from doing so. I use the mouse sander on all of my fretwork, it does an amazing job.

Len

[Bill WIlson]

I'm very new to the scroll game so my cutting is a long way from perfect yet. Still learning loads about cutting speeds, blades, and technique etc.

This is what I'm trying.

Some of the finer lines could with a light reshaping and just a general light sanding. I was thinking the diamond burrs are very fine, so with a light tough I could clean up easily. I've used sand paper and needle files on the other couple of things I've done, just thought a power tool would make it quicker and easier.

image.jpeg

 

Well, if  you want to try the diamond burrs, test it on a scrap piece first, until you get the feel for how it works.  Personally I wouldn't try it, but I'd be interested to hear how it works, if you give it a go.  Personally,  I think it's generally better to do as much of your "repair" work with the blade as possible, while the piece is still on the saw.  While it goes against the fundamentals of scrolling, I've been known to use the blade to go back and shave off material, by putting side pressure on it, if I've wandered off the line a bit too much.  This works better when cutting thinner material.  On the other hand, don't discount the fact that once you remove the pattern, often no one would ever know where the lines originally were supposed to be.  Sometimes it's better to leave well enough alone.  There's no law against not following all of the lines perfectly.  Don't tell anyone though.  That's a little scroller's secret. 

[RangerJay]

Has any one tried using a dremel rotary tool with diamond burrs for sanding, tidying up their scroll cuts?

I'm still very new to this and looking for an easy way of touching up some cuts.

 

I do this all the time - but maybe a little different than what you are thinking.

 

My primary tool is a sanding mop - used very gently - (read VERY gently) - (read EXCEPTIONALLY gentle) - in all 4 directions - and on all of my fretwork.  The mop softens all hard edges and cleans up any "fuzzies" on the down side of the blade.

 

My secondary tool is my dremel tool - first with a fine sanding drum on larger areas that might need it - and second with fine diamond burrs on smaller areas that might need it - note that the areas needing it should not be many - in fact very few - if at all -  (assuming I have been clean about my cutting).

 

 

Jay

[Rockytime]

Don't know what a mouse sander is. I have a palm sander but a mouse sander sounds interesting.

[amazingkevin]

Has any one tried using a dremel rotary tool with diamond burrs for sanding, tidying up their scroll cuts?

I'm still very new to this and looking for an easy way of touching up some cuts.

Your cuts look great.A sanding drum on a dremil will clean up fret work nicely but i haven't seen one smaller than 1/2" which is to big.Possibly a chain saw sharpening dremil tool ,an 1/8" stone on a shalft might fit to clean up things.But with all said a scroll saw blade should be the best tool to do the job

[Ron Johnson]

I'm thinking Dave part of the problem with you getting fussies would be to do with the blade, speed and blade tension. Experiment with a different blade (blade teeth down) and different speeds. Adjust blade tension so when you pluck it, it makes a pinging sound. But I would think the problem is with your blade more so then anything else. I never get fussies and I difinitely wouldn't use a dremal. You're taking a chance of creating a bigger problem and maybe having to start the project all over. If you need to clean any fussies there are special files and sandpaper tools available. One other thing you may try is attach your pattern with spray adhesive directly onto the wood. Leave any tape off. Pattern is easily removed with mineral spirits. I don't know but tape might be another reason for fussies. When I'm cutting especially an intricate portrait that has several hundred cutouts I want every cutout to be clean. I difinitely don't want to spend additional time cleaning up fussies.

[BigD]

Some good answers thank you.

My saw has only one speed, it's cheap. I mentioned speed as in my feeding speed.

I have tried different blades, but still need lots more practice to learn which blade is best for which jobs.

I always tension the blade as much as possible, sometimes overtight. Again practice and patience.

Here's a very rough idea of what I'm trying to get across, it's not the fuzzies more the quality of cut. (My cuts aren't this bad or I'd give up 😄)

I'm using a 9mm birch ply here, not Baltic, and don't think the quality is very good.

[RangerJay]

Dave,

 

I'm thinking you are in a place where we all spent time when we first began to use a scrollsaw.  It was a pretty humbling moment for me - but I did get past it.  The answer you are looking for includes research (on this forum), experimentation and most of all - practice - not necessarily in this order.  

 

I want to emphasize that it would be a pretty rare person to produce a work of art on their first try ....

 

Since your scrollsaw is not a variable speed then think of using some different blades, some different feed speeds, and some different woods - do some straight lines, some curved lines, some tight turns and some circles - with each - you will very soon gain the knowledge and the skill you need - and the circle you have shown will become a perfect cut.

 

.... and ....

 

.... assuming you like what you are doing .....

 

.... you will find yourself saving for a variable speed saw .....

 

 

 

Jay 

[Montserrat]

I use the Dremel bristle brushes for the backside - works like a charm - never damaged anything. 

[JimErn]

Dave

I'm fairly new at this addiction too, all the advice for practice and blades are spot on, what I did discover is that I cut better if I am rotating the piece clockwise, I think having the teeth on the inside of the fretwork helps.  The blade normally pulls to the right, so when does it is in a waste area of the pattern

Jim

[BigD]

Thanks everyone, I'll keep practising.

[Fish]

I used diamond burrs on some glass. I liked the way they work. Haven't used it on wood.

[heppnerguy]

I agree with Ron Johnson. Practice, practice practice. The wood selection and blades are your two important selections to make. Your saw may take a while to get but with patience and practice all WILL come together for you. A little thicker wood sometimes will end up being your friend. Maybe like getting some old piece of furniture someone is getting rid of on Craigslist for free might be a good way to give this a try. Better than cheap plywood for sure

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Fretworker100]

A trick I use to remove fuzzies is to go over VERY quickly with a propane torch with a very low flame. It takes a little getting used to doing it but it works. I learnt this from a Jeff Zaffino tutorial dvd. I use spiral blades 99% of the time so I always get fuzzies. Its just a case of practicing, its not difficult.