Joe Duncan Posted November 3, 2016 Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 Thanks for all the replies on my 911 patterns. Going to try making baskets, I guess you can only go 12" wide, or is it me missing something. I have watch a few videos on how to make them. I thought I would try one and see what happens. Trying to figure out what blade I like the best. What blade would you guys/ladies suggest? Been working with the old scroll saw about a couple of months, I really enjoy it, seems a little bit more safe than the other tools in the old wood shop. As you can tell I am really new at this. Thanks JMB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted November 3, 2016 Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 You can make bigger patterns, but you will need to tape pieces together or get a fancy printer. Most wood is narrower than 12" and a lot of baskets are made from single pieces. Also, they are a nice size to work with. I use a flying dutchman ultra reverse #5 and #3 for probably 95% of my cuttings. You will develop a favorite blade and run with it eventually. Most of my baskets are 3/4" stock and cut with a #5 and 5-9" in diameter. Scrolling Steve and Joe Duncan 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 3, 2016 Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 Depends on the type of baskets. If doing collapsible baskets #7. Others, #5 works for me. Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted November 3, 2016 Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 I go to Office Depot and they will enlarge the pattern to any size I want and print them on the plotter. I had them print some 15 inch baskets for me. IT cost around 50 cents a print. GrampaJim and WayneMahler 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 I go to Office Depot and they will enlarge the pattern to any size I want and print them on the plotter. I had them print some 15 inch baskets for me. IT cost around 50 cents a print. Never thought of that, thanks for the hot tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 Never thought of that, thanks for the hot tip Oh the money i spent at print shops before i could afford a printer.I have a program i bought years ago "rapid resizer"It reduces or enlages to what ever size i want in seconds.Its made my life easyier and i could make money when there was no other way to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 Never thought of that, thanks for the hot tip You're welcome. If they are small enough have them print two side by side. That will be the cheapest. I have thought about having some fretwork enlarged like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 Oh the money i spent at print shops before i could afford a printer.I have a program i bought years ago "rapid resizer"It reduces or enlages to what ever size i want in seconds.Its made my life easyier and i could make money when there was no other way to. so if it is bigger than standard paper it will print the adjoin pages, if that makes sense. So if you want to print something bigger than 81/2x11 paper it would add the other pages to print. If so I can use ms word Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Just a fyi, just finished my first basket. O what learning experience that was. The following lessons learned: 1. not a race, take your time 2. use quality blades. 3. Learn from Scroll saw Village, wealth of information here. 4. It called for a #5 reverse, All I had was #12 crown blades (sure do like those) Note to self. I wonder if I used the #5 would my joints be tighter? any thoughts from the masters' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Just a fyi, just finished my first basket. O what learning experience that was. The following lessons learned: 1. not a race, take your time 2. use quality blades. 3. Learn from Scroll saw Village, wealth of information here. 4. It called for a #5 reverse, All I had was #12 crown blades (sure do like those) Note to self. I wonder if I used the #5 would my joints be tighter? any thoughts from the masters' Not a master but maybe can shed some light. What kind of baskets are you trying to make??? Do you have a photo. There are several types. #12 blade of any kind is a large blade and made for cutting timbers not scroll work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Joe, the blade I use to cut bowls with, depends on the thickness and type of the wood I'm working with. Normally, I use a #3 or #5 Flying Dutchman ultra reverse blade. If I'm using 3/4" stock I will use a #7 blade, but, I hardly ever use 3/4" stock for making baskets/bowls. Len Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Just a fyi, just finished my first basket. O what learning experience that was. The following lessons learned: 1. not a race, take your time 2. use quality blades. 3. Learn from Scroll saw Village, wealth of information here. 4. It called for a #5 reverse, All I had was #12 crown blades (sure do like those) Note to self. I wonder if I used the #5 would my joints be tighter? any thoughts from the masters' No picture didn't happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 No picture didn't happen. Looking on to how to upload photo, rookie here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 (edited) No picture didn't happen. Edited November 7, 2016 by jwd5516 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 (edited) Joe, the blade I use to cut bowls with, depends on the thickness and type of the wood I'm working with. Normally, I use a #3 or #5 Flying Dutchman ultra reverse blade. If I'm using 3/4" stock I will use a #7 blade, but, I hardly ever use 3/4" stock for making baskets/bowls. Len I used 1/2" pine. thanks for the tip. I sure do hear a lot about these flying Dutchman. I guess I will check out Amazon for the blades. I order the combo crown blades. I heard great reviews...........so Edited November 7, 2016 by jwd5516 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Not a master but maybe can shed some light. What kind of baskets are you trying to make??? Do you have a photo. There are several types. #12 blade of any kind is a large blade and made for cutting timbers not scroll work. OK, finally I got the photo uploaded.. No wonder why I like the #12, I am a rookie, here I thought it was going to be my best blade for cutting 1/2" pine. I sure did have more control of the blade. Another lesson learned. Many thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Well Joe, thanks for posting the photo. Looks like to me you did a fine job with it. Have to say I never seen a basket like that. What is it design to hold??? I did mention there are many types of baskets out there and now I have to add this one to the list. As far was to what you called a problem, the only thing I can suggest is yes a smaller blade will let you spin the wood easier and probably help with cutting the joints tighter. But from here it looks like you did a fine job with it. I say keep doing what you are doing and happy scrolling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 (edited) Well Joe, thanks for posting the photo. Looks like to me you did a fine job with it. Have to say I never seen a basket like that. What is it design to hold??? I did mention there are many types of baskets out there and now I have to add this one to the list. As far was to what you called a problem, the only thing I can suggest is yes a smaller blade will let you spin the wood easier and probably help with cutting the joints tighter. But from here it looks like you did a fine job with it. I say keep doing what you are doing and happy scrolling. No, no I didn't cut basket, this was just a photo. (sample). So using a smaller number blades gives you tighter joints.........good tip ..........thanks Edited November 7, 2016 by jwd5516 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehiscroll Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 Very nice Joe. I really love your wood selection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 OK Joe so you did not make this one but you are working on one like it. I still would go with a smaller blade. Good luck and when you get one done be sure to post a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 OK Joe so you did not make this one but you are working on one like it. I still would go with a smaller blade. Good luck and when you get one done be sure to post a photo. Thank good that you all understood I didn't make the one I posted. But I will upload the one I did. Using that #5 blade makes a big difference, like night and day. With that being said, I did find a hot tip on using a Aquarium pump for clearing out the dust,,that helps big time. Once again thanks for all advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 WOW! You in believing in starting with the difficult first. Good luck with it. I am anxious to see the finished basket. The design is beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 ok, having a few issues on making these baskets, its all me for sure. I have made a few attempts. Completed 2, One was ok, but screwed up on the stain.. The second completed in dry assemble. I can't get the top joints to be tight fitting. I will try to show you what particular joint type I am speaking of. Its not the square ones, but the ones what attaches the top rings together. I will say I am getting better on cutting. I can't count how many attempts I have made. Other issue is this "CA glue". I thought this was my answer for immediate on a quick fixes. I bought it "Rockler", so I know it was the good stuff. But for the life of me I can't make it work. So what do you think I am doing wrong. I have to be missing something. It did say I can use a activator. That was just option. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Can you take pictures of what you are working on and the problems you are having? I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on from just text. The Sheila Landry basket you showed is actually a quite complex project. That is the beauty of some projects, they look simple but are quite complex. You need to have the notches cut square and lined up correctly so that the whole thing sits flat and even. Straight and square are the archenemies of scroll saws. As for the CA glue, you are probably using too much. Just a little bit works wonders. LarryEA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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