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Posted

Always looking to get a nice finish. I know there is a lot in play to asking this question, depending what, where indoor outdoor. The finish I am looking for is indoor work.  The best I found that works well for me is

Linseed oil

Minwax Wipe-On Poly

​mineral spirts.

 

​As a beginner, I buy a lot of pine from Home Depot, I try to find some that has a lot of grain.

 

Any thoughts

 

thanks

Posted

I am partial to Danish oil.  Basically it is Linseed oil with varnish and probably some other things added so that it gives a nice oil type finish but still protects the item better than straight oil. Wipes on easy with just a clean rag.

Posted

What you're doing sounds good to me.

I like applying two coats of BLO (50/50 mix Linsed oil and mineral spirits) and

and then spray lacquer ....enough coats till I'm satisfied... 

I buy  matte, gloss and semi-gloss...Beginning to like gloss the most

Everything does not have to have a perfect finish.  IMHO

Posted

I use all hard woods especially red oak. Never use plywoods or pine. So my go to finish is Watco Danish oil. I just dip and let dry after i wipe the pieces off a couple times. I then apply a coat of Watco wood polish and buff lightly to a nice sheen. The key to my finish is I always sand the piece down to 220 grit before dipping. Have been doing this for over 30 years and it has worked well. If i am using an exotic wood such as for a base then I highly polish that with a buffing wheel. 

 

IMGP0783.jpg

Posted

Always looking to get a nice finish. I know there is a lot in play to asking this question, depending what, where indoor outdoor. The finish I am looking for is indoor work.  The best I found that works well for me is

Linseed oil

Minwax Wipe-On Poly

​mineral spirts.

 

​As a beginner, I buy a lot of pine from Home Depot, I try to find some that has a lot of grain.

 

Any thoughts

 

thanks

I'm an avid user of your three choices

Posted

Shellac is my go-to finish for most scroll saw projects.  I spray it 95% of the time, either out of a spray can or using a spray gun.  What I like about it is that it dries very fast, is low odor, easy clean up and provides a nice finish.

Posted

I use wipe on poly on my boxes and on smaller thinner items I just dip them in thinned  poly and allow to drip dry with just a little wiping on the bottoms. 2-3 coats usually does it.  (I like to use naphtha to thin poly) Some times I apply a thin coat of spray poly over all this.

Posted

On most of my projects I use Rust Oleum 2x clear https://www.amazon.com/Oleum-280702-American-Accents-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LYMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478291107&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+2x+clear+glossLike that one from Amazon, but I buy it locally from any of the hardware type stores (home depot, lowes, ace, walmart, menards)

I also buy different spray polys or lacquers from time to time. The rustoleum is cheaper, and clear for painted projects.

Posted

I have used all the above. When I do use BLO I top it with Lacquer. Mrs. N brought up a point about how Poly will tint the finish. You won't notice it on stains and but for those that paint you can see it. Watco is a good choice and shellac is lso. Water based shellac is totally clear and dries very fast. Clean up is denatured alcohol so ventilation is needed. But evaporates very quickly.

Posted

Well I use Golden Oak stain,Spray on Clear Coat,several layers,I use to use the brush on,started getting to costly,and before i could use the brush on up it would dry up and Harden,no matter what I did to save it, :sad:

Posted

Just a friendly reminder, whatever finish you choose to use do it with safety concerns in mind. Work safe. Any oils such as Watco Danish oil and BLO will have a strong odor for some time so be aware of where you work with it (I always do mine outdoors) and even when you place to dry that smell will linger for awhile. Also do not discard the wiping rags or any kind in piles in the garbage. Set them outside to dry before getting rid of them. They can have thermo reactions and burst into flames.

 

The same goes for lacquers and even polys. If spraying do so outdoors or in a safe setup because the overspray is hazardous. Do not breathe in the overspray. I know we all probably know all this and follow good finishing techniques but it does not hurt to remind ourselves the dangers in a shop and working with and storing finishing materials is a huge concern no matter what the product  is. Good luck and happy turning.  

Posted

I use Watco Danish Oil on my puzzles. Everything else I spray with pre catalized  lacquer. I buy the lacquer clear. If I need color I have dye to add to it.  I am able to buy Oak, Maple and Cherry for about the same price as the big box stores sell pine. dave

Very interesting, you can a dye to the lacquer.  Where and what on the "dye". Where can I find it and what is the brand to do you prefer.

 

Any links would help..............thanks for the tip.

Posted

Very interesting, you can a dye to the lacquer.  Where and what on the "dye". Where can I find it and what is the brand to do you prefer.

 

Any links would help..............thanks for the tip.

Trans Tint dyes. Google for location. Woodcraft use to carry it. Not sure now. 

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