Joe Duncan Posted November 3, 2016 Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 Always looking to get a nice finish. I know there is a lot in play to asking this question, depending what, where indoor outdoor. The finish I am looking for is indoor work. The best I found that works well for me is Linseed oil Minwax Wipe-On Poly ​mineral spirts. ​As a beginner, I buy a lot of pine from Home Depot, I try to find some that has a lot of grain. Any thoughts thanks amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I am partial to Danish oil. Basically it is Linseed oil with varnish and probably some other things added so that it gives a nice oil type finish but still protects the item better than straight oil. Wipes on easy with just a clean rag. Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 What you're doing sounds good to me. I like applying two coats of BLO (50/50 mix Linsed oil and mineral spirits) and and then spray lacquer ....enough coats till I'm satisfied... I buy matte, gloss and semi-gloss...Beginning to like gloss the most Everything does not have to have a perfect finish. IMHO Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I use all hard woods especially red oak. Never use plywoods or pine. So my go to finish is Watco Danish oil. I just dip and let dry after i wipe the pieces off a couple times. I then apply a coat of Watco wood polish and buff lightly to a nice sheen. The key to my finish is I always sand the piece down to 220 grit before dipping. Have been doing this for over 30 years and it has worked well. If i am using an exotic wood such as for a base then I highly polish that with a buffing wheel. LarryEA, amazingkevin, Dave Monk and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 Always looking to get a nice finish. I know there is a lot in play to asking this question, depending what, where indoor outdoor. The finish I am looking for is indoor work. The best I found that works well for me is Linseed oil Minwax Wipe-On Poly ​mineral spirts. ​As a beginner, I buy a lot of pine from Home Depot, I try to find some that has a lot of grain. Any thoughts thanks I'm an avid user of your three choices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I also like Watco Danish oil but I am going to try BLO and mineral spirits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 It really depends on the project but I also like Watco Danish Oil (Natural which is clear). If I want a bit more shine I will spray with lacquer after the Danish Oil dries. Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I use a lot of spry Lacquer. Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I use Watco Danish Oil on my puzzles. Everything else I spray with pre catalized lacquer. I buy the lacquer clear. If I need color I have dye to add to it. I am able to buy Oak, Maple and Cherry for about the same price as the big box stores sell pine. dave Joe Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 Shellac is my go-to finish for most scroll saw projects. I spray it 95% of the time, either out of a spray can or using a spray gun. What I like about it is that it dries very fast, is low odor, easy clean up and provides a nice finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I use wipe on poly on my boxes and on smaller thinner items I just dip them in thinned poly and allow to drip dry with just a little wiping on the bottoms. 2-3 coats usually does it. (I like to use naphtha to thin poly) Some times I apply a thin coat of spray poly over all this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 On most of my projects I use Rust Oleum 2x clear https://www.amazon.com/Oleum-280702-American-Accents-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LYMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478291107&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+2x+clear+glossLike that one from Amazon, but I buy it locally from any of the hardware type stores (home depot, lowes, ace, walmart, menards) I also buy different spray polys or lacquers from time to time. The rustoleum is cheaper, and clear for painted projects. Jim Finn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debi Shipman Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I need to change from the BLO. It smells so horrible but it seems to be the cheaper of all the options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted November 4, 2016 Report Share Posted November 4, 2016 I have used all the above. When I do use BLO I top it with Lacquer. Mrs. N brought up a point about how Poly will tint the finish. You won't notice it on stains and but for those that paint you can see it. Watco is a good choice and shellac is lso. Water based shellac is totally clear and dries very fast. Clean up is denatured alcohol so ventilation is needed. But evaporates very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawson56 Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Well I use Golden Oak stain,Spray on Clear Coat,several layers,I use to use the brush on,started getting to costly,and before i could use the brush on up it would dry up and Harden,no matter what I did to save it, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Johnson Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 I like the look of a Lacquer finish so first I spray the piece with sand & sealer then once that dries I use Gloss Lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 You guys and gals just talked me into trying the Watco Danish oil on a future project . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Just a friendly reminder, whatever finish you choose to use do it with safety concerns in mind. Work safe. Any oils such as Watco Danish oil and BLO will have a strong odor for some time so be aware of where you work with it (I always do mine outdoors) and even when you place to dry that smell will linger for awhile. Also do not discard the wiping rags or any kind in piles in the garbage. Set them outside to dry before getting rid of them. They can have thermo reactions and burst into flames. The same goes for lacquers and even polys. If spraying do so outdoors or in a safe setup because the overspray is hazardous. Do not breathe in the overspray. I know we all probably know all this and follow good finishing techniques but it does not hurt to remind ourselves the dangers in a shop and working with and storing finishing materials is a huge concern no matter what the product is. Good luck and happy turning. Mark SW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 I use Danish Oil. Three coats and you have a lovely shine. Marg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Duncan Posted November 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 I use Watco Danish Oil on my puzzles. Everything else I spray with pre catalized lacquer. I buy the lacquer clear. If I need color I have dye to add to it. I am able to buy Oak, Maple and Cherry for about the same price as the big box stores sell pine. dave Very interesting, you can a dye to the lacquer. Where and what on the "dye". Where can I find it and what is the brand to do you prefer. Any links would help..............thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Very interesting, you can a dye to the lacquer. Where and what on the "dye". Where can I find it and what is the brand to do you prefer. Any links would help..............thanks for the tip. Trans Tint dyes. Google for location. Woodcraft use to carry it. Not sure now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoney Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 I quite often use Krylon Clear Acrylic usually in the satin finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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