Sam777 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Hi all, I have glued a few pieces to their bases and chose to glue before I put oil (mineral oil). The issue is you can see where the glue (TiteBond) squeezed out a little and of course those spots do not absorb the oil. Do you glue before or after you oil (or stain) your pieces? thank you in advance Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 I use screws when doing things with a base. I work the base and the project separately. I predrill the base in prep for the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Hi all, I have glued a few pieces to their bases and chose to glue before I put oil (mineral oil). The issue is you can see where the glue (TiteBond) squeezed out a little and of course those spots do not absorb the oil. Do you glue before or after you oil (or stain) your pieces? thank you in advance Sam Yepper,glue doesn't like oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spirithorse Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 I always stain the pieces and then glue but, if you were careful when glueing everything up, you should be able to clean the glue squeeze-out before it dries. God Bless! Spirithorse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 I used to use screws too, but I discovered that for small projects glueing is very adequate if done properly. For scroll saw projects I use Aleen's tacky glue. I apply a very small amount to one surface. Using a toothpick, I spread the glue to make a very thin layer while removing excess glue. Mount the two pieces together pressing them together with a slight twist. Then with a clean toothpick, I scrap off any excess glue before it dries. I have been doing it this way for years and have never had a failure. As far as stain, I never stain! I always use hard woods which usually impart their natural color when oil is applied. I do not reccomenc using mineral oil though. While it is reccomended for cutting boards and utensils, it is not for plaques and such as it never fully dries and could stain furniture. Always use products designed as a finish, mineral oil is not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 If you are very careful with what your doing, you should not have any glue squeeze-out. I never have glue squeeze-out, but, I'm stingy with the glue. You can see beforehand where the possibility of a glue squeeze exists, so, you use less glue in those situations. I usually screw the base to the cutting, there's less of a chance of a failure. Plus, by using screws, you can always take the item apart for storage. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Hi all, I have glued a few pieces to their bases and chose to glue before I put oil (mineral oil). The issue is you can see where the glue (TiteBond) squeezed out a little and of course those spots do not absorb the oil. Do you glue before or after you oil (or stain) your pieces? thank you in advance Sam Sam if you want to use glue use very little and put painters tape on the base so any squeeze out will get on the tape not the wood. If your fit is good it takes very little glue to hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Best woodworking practice is to glue bare wood surfaces only. You may be able to bond surfaces that have some finish on them, but the strongest bond is always between two pieces of bare, freshly sanded/milled pieces of wood. Hawkeye's advice to mask off the area around the gluing surfaces is good. I do that on projects where it's difficult to access the joint and clean up any squeeze out after assembly. Best advice is to avoid the squeeze out in the first place by careful application of the glue. I also agree with Dan that mineral oil is not something I would recommend using as a finish for anything except wooden kitchen items that come in contact with food. There are a a lot of finishing options out there, suitable for general woodworking. Mineral oil isn't one of them, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 I appreciate everyone's advice and comments. All advice and comments well taken. I guess I will llimit the Mineral Oil usage to kitchen pieces I tried danish oil on Alder and I didn't like the results. It left some shiney spot and some soaked into the wood. Good bless you ALL and this great forum. Happy thanksgiving to all Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 I stain before I glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 I stain before I glue. Do you leave the area to be glued unstained? What glue do you prefer? Thank you Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 I do my glue ups then stain the piece if it is all one color. Once the glue is dried. I then wipe a little mineral spirits around the glue joints. That will show any squeeze out or places the glue remains. A little light hand sanding takes care of it, then stain and finish. Hope this makes sense and helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Do you leave the area to be glued unstained? What glue do you prefer? Thank you Sam No I stain everything, let it dry good and then glue it together. I use titebond with the blue label and cap. It's indoor/outdoor and is waterproof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted November 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Thank you guys. Appreciate the hints. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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