90 degree turn

[gonetopilbara]

Hi,

 

I am struggling with the 90 degree turn when "pivoting the workpiece"

 

What I want to know is if there is a limit to blade size and wood thickness.

 

I can understand it is achievable with thin wood, but can it be done with 13mm or 19mm (1/2" or 3/4") timber and if so, what size blade would you use to prevent it breaking?

[WayneMahler]

First, Welcome to the village. You will find a lot of great folks here to help in your journey of scrolling.

 

Cutting 90* turns in thicker wood, 1/2" 3/4" is basically done the same as thinner pieces. I normally use a #5-UR blade. If you are using a bigger blade you can back out of the corner and cut back into the waste area opening up the space for the blade to turn. When the hole is large enough turn your piece and continue with your cut. My preference is to anchor the wood with one finger and gently turn into the cut using my other hand. Always turn into the waste area. There are some good videos on YouTube that you can watch that may help. The main thing is to be patient especially when learning and don't get frustrated. It is a learning curve we have all gone through, in time you will develop the skills and abilities to do almost any project.  Remember to enjoy your time with your saw. 

 

One a side note. Try and stay away from the blades at the big box stores. I use Flying Dutchman, others use Olsen and Pegasis blades.All are good blades and all serve a purpose. You will discover what blades you like and work for you.

 

Have fun and enjoy.

 

Hope this helps some.

[Iguanadon]

It simply takes practice and in addition to what Wayne said, as you're making the turn and using one finger as a "pivot" to turn the wood, be sure you are pulling slightly "back" on the piece putting pressure on the backside of the blade which stops any errant cutting by the teeth as you make the turn.

 

Again, it's delicate and just takes practice.  It's the same for thin or thick wood.

Edited December 5, 2016 by Iguanadon

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

What beginners think they have to do is keep cutting when making a 90 degree turn or greater and that is the last thing you want to do. You want to stop your cutting and put slight pressure on the back of the blade and then pivot. If that does not feel right for you and there is room then make another slice right along side the first cut thus making a wider opening to make the turn. It does take a little practice but is done very easily. I scroll 3/4" oak all the time and use a #5 blade and have no problem. 

[Roberta Moreton]

Step one. Back up slightly.  Understand where and witch direction you want the teeth to end up. Your pivot finger needs to be directly behind the blade. 

Now, pressing your work against the back of the blade turn.  You should hear no cutting during this.  It is tricky, Practice where you have room to make a mistake.

[hawkeye10]

Bill I have the same problem as you, but I can tell I am getting a little better. I hope after Christmas I will have more time to scroll. I have been making presents and not all of them are scroll saw work. So maybe if you and I can get a little practice in we will be as good as these guys that have posted before me.

 

By the way hope you become a regular poster here. You and I might just have us a race to see who can turn corners first.  

[tomsteve]

i happen to be starting on a project with lots of 90's. i have 4-1/4" ply stacked which 2 will be used as backers. im using #7UR flying dutchman blade, which doesnt make the sharpest corners. to cut the outline. i make a cut right into the corner first(which should be the first picture) then back up, go into the scrap area(which should be the 2nd picture), and come into the corner from the other direction. with #1,3, or 5 blades i dont bother and just turn the wood slow.

sometimes even with a #7 or 9 blade i dont bother. it just depends on the project

[Lucky2]

Hello Bill, welcome to the Village, it's great to have you as a new member. I'm wondering if, you could do a bit of introducing yourself, just so that we can get to know you a bit better? What's your hobbies, where do you live and are you married, that type of thing? We don't need you to tell us your life history, just a tid-bit of your goings on. There's no rules stating that you need to introduce yourself, and you don't need to if you don't want. But, if you do, it makes it easier to get to know you and treat you like we know you. The previous posters have pretty much answered your question, there'a not much to add to what they've posted. Personally, I think it's just a matter of practicing. But, yes you are right in your suspicions, if the blade is to large, it's very hard to cut a 90* cut. With some blades, you just need to have a waste area to cut into, there's no way around it. I cut using the Flying Dutchman brand of blades, I can comfortably cut a 90* corner with up to a #5 blade without stopping. If I'm using a larger blade, I may have to stop and spin the piece of wood. With any blade over a #7, I look for a waste area to cut into because it makes things so much easier. 

Len

[jerry1939]

i happen to be starting on a project with lots of 90's. i have 4-1/4" ply stacked which 2 will be used as backers. im using #7UR flying dutchman blade, which doesnt make the sharpest corners. to cut the outline. i make a cut right into the corner first(which should be the first picture) then back up, go into the scrap area(which should be the 2nd picture), and come into the corner from the other direction. with #1,3, or 5 blades i dont bother and just turn the wood slow.

sometimes even with a #7 or 9 blade i dont bother. it just depends on the project

I'm a fussy guy & normally make ALL my 90s as shown in your 2nd photo. That makes perfect corners. On another note, when sawing the outside of small circles (as found on lots of patterns), cut 1/2 ? way around the arc, back out, spin the wood and back into the first arc. That will guide the blade easily to start the second part of the circle. You will find yourself doing this automatically and liking it.

 

jerry

[amazingkevin]

Hi,

 

I am struggling with the 90 degree turn when "pivoting the workpiece"

 

What I want to know is if there is a limit to blade size and wood thickness.

 

I can understand it is achievable with thin wood, but can it be done with 13mm or 19mm (1/2" or 3/4") timber and if so, what size blade would you use to prevent it breaking?

Oh i struggled with this and next thing you know it's second nature ,Everything comes in it's time ,I remember a musician asked another musician how to get to Carnegie hall,the other musician said practice practice practice !

[Scrolling Steve]

One other tip will be to start the turn  slightly before you get to the corner of  the cut......a lot of great tips have been shared here!

[dgman]

Welcome to the Village Bill! I don't think there is anything more to add except to keep a high tension on your blade. You want to hear a high "ping" when you pluck the blade. If it goes "plunk", it's way too low.

[Paladin]

i happen to be starting on a project with lots of 90's. i have 4-1/4" ply stacked which 2 will be used as backers. im using #7UR flying dutchman blade, which doesnt make the sharpest corners. to cut the outline. i make a cut right into the corner first(which should be the first picture) then back up, go into the scrap area(which should be the 2nd picture), and come into the corner from the other direction. with #1,3, or 5 blades i dont bother and just turn the wood slow.

sometimes even with a #7 or 9 blade i dont bother. it just depends on the project

I have cut that same snowman snowflake pattern a couple times.  Wait until you get to the dang wreath!!

[tomsteve]

I did this one years ago. last night I stopped to plan them cuts and thought,"what did I get myself into!?!?!"  and called it a night.

 

kind of bummed as I wanted to use an 0/1 blade for that cut but don't have any. buuuuut, I have some puzzle blades im going to see how they work. they sure are tedious cuts!

Edited December 6, 2016 by tomsteve