Tips for using 2/0 blade

[Blaughn]

I purchased a Sheila Landry pattern containing some beautiful script.  She recommends a 2/0 blade.

 

I am finding the 2/0 blade very tough to control.  I have tried slow speed, mid speed and high speed but getting sharp turns and smooth radius turns is eluding me.  It is almost like there is insufficient "backbone" to the blade causing it to respond slower to changes in direction and sharp corners are really difficult.

 

Now that I have turned a 14 x 8 x1/2 walnut plaque into kindling, any suggestions for a new guy?

 

 Bruce

Edited December 6, 2016 by Blaughn

[Lucky2]

Bruce, I'm sorry to state this, but, all I can suggest, is that you practice practice practice on a scrap piece of wood. Then, if you can't succeed with a 2/0 blade, then step it up one number in blade sizes.

Len 

[edward]

I use the FD 2/0 for small cuts, with no problem, if you have trouble with it go to FD#1, that is my backup and works well. Just my opinion.  edward

[wedo scroll]

Is the blade being influenced by the walnut grain? Or perhaps trying even more tension? 

[Rolf]

If it is the FD 2/0 it is a very hard blade to get used to. Use the #1 instead. For my fine ornaments I use the Olson 2/0 and I believe that is what Sheila uses, but I may be wrong. 

It is very easy to control.

[Rolf]

If it is the FD 2/0 I find it is a hard blade to control making fast sharp corners. Even Mike agreed with me. Try a FD 1 it will be a bit easier. I personally use the Olson 2/0 reverse, it is very easy to control, less agressive. 

I think that is what Sheila uses.

 

Sorry for the double post 

Edited December 6, 2016 by Rolf

[dgman]

I'm with Rolf on this. I tried FD SR 2/0 blades and could no control them. I tried everything from saw speed to feed rate and nothing worked fo me. When I use 2/0 blades it's Olson 2/0 r blades for me.

I see that Flying Dutchman now has 2/0 in Ultra Reverse which they haven't before. Next time I order FD blades I will try some.

[Scrolling Steve]

This is the kind of good info you can only get in the Village......Thanks for sharing ! 

[amazingkevin]

I purchased a Sheila Landry pattern containing some beautiful script.  She recommends a 2/0 blade.

 

I am finding the 2/0 blade very tough to control.  I have tried slow speed, mid speed and high speed but getting sharp turns and smooth radius turns is eluding me.  It is almost like there is insufficient "backbone" to the blade causing it to respond slower to changes in direction and sharp corners are really difficult.

 

Now that I have turned a 14 x 8 x1/2 walnut plaque into kindling, any suggestions for a new guy?

 

 Bruce

i've found that most anything can be cut with most any blade .i've cut things with a #12 blade when i should have used a #5.you just get used to using certain blades and know what to exspect.

[Blaughn]

 

Thanks for the input.  It was the FD 2/0 SR I was using.  I recut a practice piece with the FD #3 SR and it came out well.  I will try it again with the FD #1 SR tomorrow.

[hawkeye10]

IMG_05821.JPG

 

Thanks for the input.  It was the FD 2/0 SR I was using.  I recut a practice piece with the FD #3 SR and it came out well.  I will try it again with the FD #1 SR tomorrow.

Man that is nice.  

[TripleJScroller]

Just my opinion, but I'd say 2/0 blade on half inch Walnut is too small.  I'd use the #3 for this myself.

[Paladin]

I've cut some of the script patterns from Sheila and Keith and have never needed anything smaller than a #3.  I usually use the FD-PSR#3 for stuff like that.  Also a tip that I learned while cutting these patterns - when you have a curve to cut in a really thin area, always cut the inside of the curve first,  Then when you go back and cut the outside, you will have an easier time keeping the blade on the line and in the cut.  If you cut the outside first, when you go back to cut the inside, the blade will want to slip out into the already cut section.  Hope this makes sense, I started doing this after the first couple of these type of patterns I cut and it has made it a lot easier with much better results.

 

Steve

[Bill WIlson]

Like some others, I've had difficulty controlling FD 2/0 blades.  I much prefer the Olsons. For the pattern you show, I would think a #1 FD-UR or even an OIson #3 MS blade would work pretty well.  The Olson #3 MS blade was my go-to blade for just about anything that didn't require a very small blade, but lately I've been using the #1 FD-UR.  It's a little smaller, but seems to cut just as well, even in 1/2" hardwood and may last a little longer.  JMHO. 

[Blaughn]

I picked up the Olson 2/0.  It cut beautifully.   I was able to follow the lines even in the with the tightest turns.  Great advise!!

[stoney]

Well I'll put my two cents worth in.   I have been scrolling steady now for about 16 years and I have cut plenty of patterns with fine detail and have never felt the need to use a 2/0 scroll saw blade especially in hardwoods.   A # 1 blade is the smallest I use and most of the time it is a #3 or larger.   Trying to make very tight turns in 1/2" or thicker hardwood with a 2/0 blade just isn't necessary IMHO. 

[stoney]

IMG_05821.JPG

 

Thanks for the input.  It was the FD 2/0 SR I was using.  I recut a practice piece with the FD #3 SR and it came out well.  I will try it again with the FD #1 SR tomorrow.

I would use no smaller than a FD- UR or SR #3 blade on that pattern.   Just wondering if it came out well with a FD#3 SR why do you feel the need to cut with a smaller blade?

Edited December 6, 2016 by stoney

[Blaughn]

I would use no smaller than a FD- UR or SR #3 blade on that pattern.   Just wondering if it came out well with a FD#3 SR why do you feel the need to cut with a smaller blade?

As a new scroller, I am experimenting and learning at the same time.  I cut the same pattern in 1/2" poplar with the number 3 and the Olson 2/0.  I found the Olson to cut less aggressively than the FD #3 SR which helped me achieve a smoother flow around the curves. I will next experiment with 3/8" cherry with the Olson 2/0 and the FD #1 SR.  I expect there will be some adjustments going from the softer poplar to the cherry.

 

The problem I had with the walnut is that the bridges on the "drop-outs" tended to break very easily.  I expect cherry, being a closed grain wood, will be less inclined to break where the bridge is aligned with the grain.

 

If nothing else, I am getting some very challenging practice under my belt.  I have mastered the sharp angle reversals BUT I think I am being overly aggressive which is causing the lower portion of the blade to bend toward me about 15 degrees.  Makes it tough to push through the drilled holes.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Bruce

[kywoodmaster]

Olsen 2/0 is my favorite blade. I have used them in 3/4 oak many times. great finish no sanding.

[Bill WIlson]

Blade selection is such a matter of personal preference that it is sometimes difficult to give advice.  Each of us develops our own individual criteria for what we like about blades and that criteria isn't always directly transferrable to someone else.  In discussions with members of our scrollsaw club, I always find it interesting to hear differing views on blade selection.  Several veteran scrollers can look at the same project and not agree on which blade they would use.  We see that here as well.  There isn't often a general consensus amongst the majority as to which blade will be best to use in a particular application.  Opinions can vary widely.  It's good to get a broad perspective, but I maintain that it will always be up to the individual to try as many different blades as practical to get a sense of what works best for them.  Heck, I've been scrolling for 20 years and I'm still learning and trying different sizes and types.  Part of that is because I tend to cut all sorts of patterns from all sorts of materials, so one blade won't work for everything I do, but I do have a tendency to stick with a blade that works and I have to kind of force myself to try new ones sometimes.

[Blaughn]

Blade selection is such a matter of personal preference that it is sometimes difficult to give advice.  Each of us develops our own individual criteria for what we like about blades and that criteria isn't always directly transferrable to someone else.  In discussions with members of our scrollsaw club, I always find it interesting to hear differing views on blade selection.  Several veteran scrollers can look at the same project and not agree on which blade they would use.  We see that here as well.  There isn't often a general consensus amongst the majority as to which blade will be best to use in a particular application.  Opinions can vary widely.  It's good to get a broad perspective, but I maintain that it will always be up to the individual to try as many different blades as practical to get a sense of what works best for them.  Heck, I've been scrolling for 20 years and I'm still learning and trying different sizes and types.  Part of that is because I tend to cut all sorts of patterns from all sorts of materials, so one blade won't work for everything I do, but I do have a tendency to stick with a blade that works and I have to kind of force myself to try new ones sometimes.

And thus the dizzying array of blades being offered.  After I purchased my scroll saw, I went out to buy "a blade".  I was surprised and a bit at a loss to know where to start.  I am still a bit confused but after trying out a number of different blades, at least I am confused at a higher level. 

Edited December 7, 2016 by Blaughn

[WayneMahler]

I think Bill made a good point. Once you learn the habits of the blades you are using you get comfortable with them an understand the adjustments you need to make when scrolling. The largest blade I have is a #7 and it is rare when I use them. The #2/0 are very fine and hard for me to see but still can use them at a much slower pace though. I have cut many of the works from Sheila, Keith and Sue as well as other well known designers. I found that they suggest something and would bet that is what they are comfortable with and used to using. I know I learn new things all the time. Be patient, play around and learn as you go, we all do. Just remember to  have fun along your journey.

[stoney]

And thus the dizzying array of blades being offered.  After I purchased my scroll saw, I went out to buy "a blade".  I was surprised and a bit at a loss to know where to start.  I am still a bit confused but after trying out a number of different blades, at least I am confused at a higher level. 

It is true that there are many different blades to choose from but here is my take on them.   Blade retailers usually charge the same unit price no matter which size from the smallest to the largest size of any particular blade type.   The smaller the blade the easier they flex, bend, and break so I tend to use the smallest sizes only when the project demands them.   I think you will find you can cut, as I did, some quite fine detail without having to resort to the smallest blades.  As you try different blades you will probably finally settle into just a few that you will use most of the time. Good Luck     

Edited December 9, 2016 by stoney

[Roberta Moreton]

As a new scroller, I am experimenting and learning at the same time.  I cut the same pattern in 1/2" poplar with the number 3 and the Olson 2/0.  I found the Olson to cut less aggressively than the FD #3 SR which helped me achieve a smoother flow around the curves. I will next experiment with 3/8" cherry with the Olson 2/0 and the FD #1 SR.  I expect there will be some adjustments going from the softer poplar to the cherry.

 

The problem I had with the walnut is that the bridges on the "drop-outs" tended to break very easily.  I expect cherry, being a closed grain wood, will be less inclined to break where the bridge is aligned with the grain.

 

If nothing else, I am getting some very challenging practice under my belt.  I have mastered the sharp angle reversals BUT I think I am being overly aggressive which is causing the lower portion of the blade to bend toward me about 15 degrees.  Makes it tough to push through the drilled holes.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Bruce

 

I agree with every one about the blade choice.  My comment is about your aggressiveness bending the blade.  If you are pushing instead of guiding the blade through the cut, the blade is too small or too dull or the speed is too slow or the tension is off. I believe the blade to be too small, I hope this helps.