Last practice piece B4 the project - a couple of question

[Blaughn]

 

The material in this picture is 10" x 2" x 3/8" cherry cut with the Olson 2/0 blade.  Two questions:

 

1.  I re-sawed a piece of 4-quarter cherry to get the 3/8 material for the plaque.  The board is a bit cupped and a bit bowed as internal pressures were relieved.  I intend to glue the completed piece to 1/2" plywood as a backer board when done.  I am hoping expect that will flatten the piece. Before I do all the scroll work, do you think 1/2 inch ply will flatten the cherry?

 

2.  As I was cutting the sample piece shown above, I noticed the cut was requiring more pressure about half-way through the scrolling.  Would you expect to have to change a Olson 2/0 blade half way through the above sample?

 

Bruce

[Sparkey]

Looks great. I would expect to be able to cut a couple out with one blade. You could wear the blade out sooner if the saw is running fast and the blade is getting too hot or if you are pushing too hard. I cut out an October Cross with only two blades in 3/8" purple heart using FD new 3/0 spirals. I run medium speed and just let the saw do the cutting.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Bruce, should look good when done. When you cut the pieces how did you sand them to get flat??? 

 

If the plywood is flat it has a good chance of holding the cherry flat. Make sure when you glue it to weight it down so that the cherry flattens out. Scrolling the letters out will also take some of the stress out of the board too. Seems a bit odd though that you use 3/8 for the finish piece and use such a heavy piece for the backer unless you are going for a certain look. 

[Blaughn]

Bruce, should look good when done. When you cut the pieces how did you sand them to get flat??? 

 

If the plywood is flat it has a good chance of holding the cherry flat. Make sure when you glue it to weight it down so that the cherry flattens out. Scrolling the letters out will also take some of the stress out of the board too. Seems a bit odd though that you use 3/8 for the finish piece and use such a heavy piece for the backer unless you are going for a certain look. 

I did no sanding after resawing.  I simply ran it through the planer which does nothing to flatten, unfortunately.

 

My choice of 1/2" ply is based upon the fear that 1/4" would be overpowered by the cherry.  If the scrolling helps to flatten the board, I may choose 1/4 for the recessed backer.  My other choice, though,  would be to use the other piece of 3/8" cherry produced when I re-sawed the original board.  I could glue it up after re-aligning the original grain then cut the decorative edge to finish the plaque. That would make the scrolling appear to be routed into a piece of solid cherry.......hmmm....

[amazingkevin]

IMG_05851.JPG

 

The material in this picture is 10" x 2" x 3/8" cherry cut with the Olson 2/0 blade.  Two questions:

 

1.  I re-sawed a piece of 4-quarter cherry to get the 3/8 material for the plaque.  The board is a bit cupped and a bit bowed as internal pressures were relieved.  I intend to glue the completed piece to 1/2" plywood as a backer board when done.  I am hoping expect that will flatten the piece. Before I do all the scroll work, do you think 1/2 inch ply will flatten the cherry?

 

2.  As I was cutting the sample piece shown above, I noticed the cut was requiring more pressure about half-way through the scrolling.  Would you expect to have to change a Olson 2/0 blade half way through the above sample?

 

Bruce

now here a perfect word art i've never cut ,well done!

[hawkeye10]

IMG_05851.JPG

 

The material in this picture is 10" x 2" x 3/8" cherry cut with the Olson 2/0 blade.  Two questions:

 

1.  I re-sawed a piece of 4-quarter cherry to get the 3/8 material for the plaque.  The board is a bit cupped and a bit bowed as internal pressures were relieved.  I intend to glue the completed piece to 1/2" plywood as a backer board when done.  I am hoping expect that will flatten the piece. Before I do all the scroll work, do you think 1/2 inch ply will flatten the cherry?

 

2.  As I was cutting the sample piece shown above, I noticed the cut was requiring more pressure about half-way through the scrolling.  Would you expect to have to change a Olson 2/0 blade half way through the above sample?

 

Bruce

Bruce I have learned that scroll saw blades wear out fast "very fast". When I change holes scrolling I will rub my thumb on the part of the blade that is doing the cutting then rub the part that is not cutting and compare. If it feels just a little dull I change blades. You will be very surprised how fast they get dull.

[Falcon]

I just bought Olson blades 2.0 for the first time. Not impressed at all my Flying Dutchman last a lot longer. Personally will not buy them anymore. (Just my experience)

[Blaughn]

Bruce I have learned that scroll saw blades wear out fast "very fast". When I change holes scrolling I will rub my thumb on the part of the blade that is doing the cutting then rub the part that is not cutting and compare. If it feels just a little dull I change blades. You will be very surprised how fast they get dull.

Given the cost per blade vs the cost of the wood and my time, I am inclined to agree with you.  Thanks for your input.

[Blaughn]

I just bought Olson blades 2.0 for the first time. Not impressed at all my Flying Dutchman last a lot longer. Personally will not buy them anymore. (Just my experience)

I have Flying Dutchman SR from size 12 down to 2/0.  I have been so impressed with them (primarily the #5), it was a no brainer to use the FD SR 2/0 when the project called for it.  I found that blade to be extremely difficult to control.  They seemed to lag behind in responding to the slight adjustments and then over respond to the next correction.  I tried the Olson 2/0 and the problem went away. For my machine, the material I am working with currently and my touch, the Olson 2/0 have found a home but the FC SR #5 is still my go-to blade for most work.

 

Offered not as a rebuttal nor an argument to your post - simply my impressions as a new scroller.