USING DANISH OIL FINISHES

[Sam777]

I know the finishing posts have been beaten to death but still some of us were NOT ready to learn/practice that until now:

Whether 1/4 BB or 3/4 solid wood. It seems like dipping is the better way to go so the oil can get into the corners and carnies of fretwork, Correct?

1. How long do you dip the piece (1/4 BB, 3/4 Walnut, Oak, Maple ...)?

2. Once removed from the oil bath, how to dry it? Hang some Xmas ornaments over a pan and let them air dry. But that will  have many drippings dry as they air out. Or should I air blow them dry (compressed air?).

3. Once dry, unless the finish looks even throughout the piece (no bloches) I can leave them at that or spray paint with clear laquer???

 

Please chime in with your advices and comments,

I appreciate your help

Thank you

 

Sam

[Dan]

I use a 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits. Just dip long enough to get all parts wet then remove. I allow the mix to drip the hang or set aside for about 10 minutes. Then I wipe off the excess. If I can't get into the crannies I blow them out with the compressor. There are others that do it differently but that works for me.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Sam I use Watco Danish oil on all my projects. I sometimes will top coat with a water based lacquer. I never use Polyurethane. Make it to plastic looking for me. Have to say each species of wood will take the oil differently and also how thick the piece is. As far as dipping time goes I have no set time but will leave in for at least 15 minutes. Some woods such as some oak boards will look dried out even after they were dipped. This may take 2 dippings then. I have a big container and after dipping I set the piece on the lid of the container so it drips most of the excess. After that I set on some boards or junk plywood as it continues to drip. Then I take the piece and wipe it down. I will tap the piece softly on a hard surface to get the excess out of the cut outs. Then wipe again and set it aside. i do all this outside in the nice weather. I do not dip in the winter unless I totally have to and then it is just one piece. I save all my dipping for one or 2 days. I make sure I set the pieces up in the shade or else the sun will surface dry it and you can get blotchy shiny parts.

 

To me there is no better finish than a Danish oil. Gives a nice warm glow to the piece.

 

If you are going to top coat make sure the piece is cured. Not just dry to the touch but cured which can take 4 or 5 days at least.  

[Sam777]

Thank you for the advice Dan,

will do that.

Do you put a coat of lacquer over the oil?

Sam

[Sam777]

Sam I use Watco Danish oil on all my projects. I sometimes will top coat with a water based lacquer. I never use Polyurethane. Make it to plastic looking for me. Have to say each species of wood will take the oil differently and also how thick the piece is. As far as dipping time goes I have no set time but will leave in for at least 15 minutes. Some woods such as some oak boards will look dried out even after they were dipped. This may take 2 dippings then. I have a big container and after dipping I set the piece on the lid of the container so it drips most of the excess. After that I set on some boards or junk plywood as it continues to drip. Then I take the piece and wipe it down. I will tap the piece softly on a hard surface to get the excess out of the cut outs. Then wipe again and set it aside. i do all this outside in the nice weather. I do not dip in the winter unless I totally have to and then it is just one piece. I save all my dipping for one or 2 days. I make sure I set the pieces up in the shade or else the sun will surface dry it and you can get blotchy shiny parts.

 

To me there is no better finish than a Danish oil. Gives a nice warm glow to the piece.

 

If you are going to top coat make sure the piece is cured. Not just dry to the touch but cured which can take 4 or 5 days at least.  

John,

I bought 2 shades of the Danish oil (Natural and Dark Walnut).

Does the water based lacquer go well over the danish oil? Here in Calif we no longer have oil based paints :(

Thank you for the advice/comments

Sam

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

John,

I bought 2 shades of the Danish oil (Natural and Dark Walnut).

Does the water based lacquer go well over the danish oil? Here in Calif we no longer have oil based paints :(

Thank you for the advice/comments

Sam

 

 

Sam if you are going to top coat with lacquer I suggest you dip in BLO and not Danish oil. Remember Danish oil has polurethane in it and poly and lacquer do not play well together. You will get the same look with blo but no gloss at all. If you are going to use the Dark walnut Danish oil then only dip once and wipe dry. I would also wipe the surface of the project with acetone with a cotton free cloth to get the poly off the surface. Do not worry about the fret cuts. 

[Sam777]

Sam if you are going to top coat with lacquer I suggest you dip in BLO and not Danish oil. Remember Danish oil has polurethane in it and poly and lacquer do not play well together. You will get the same look with blo but no gloss at all. If you are going to use the Dark walnut Danish oil then only dip once and wipe dry. I would also wipe the surface of the project with acetone with a cotton free cloth to get the poly off the surface. Do not worry about the fret cuts. 

John,

I don't I want to mess with BLO (and the concern of rags igniting so on). I think I will stay with Danish oil as the final finish. Do you see anything wrong with that? assuming the oil finish will be even throughout the piece?

Also, I am not looking to get a glossy shiny finish. I like satin/matt finish on wood.

Thank again for your comments.

Sam

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

John,

I don't I want to mess with BLO (and the concern of rags igniting so on). I think I will stay with Danish oil as the final finish. Do you see anything wrong with that? assuming the oil finish will be even throughout the piece?

Also, I am not looking to get a glossy shiny finish. I like satin/matt finish on wood.

Thank again for your comments.

Sam

 

Sam it will work if you only dip once. I have done it many times before. Just for your information, Danish oil is just a much of a concern as BLO. Danish oil is blo, poly, mineral spirits and some driers mixed together. Do not clump rags in a pile. treat them and all oil products with concern. 

 

If you are looking for a matte, satin look then just do the Danish oil. If you want you can always add a wax finish. I use Watco satin polish on my projects all the time. 

 

I am not sure how I can show you the shine you can get but here is a magazine rack that was dipped in med walnut.

 

 

 

Here is one in natural

 

 

All my shelves and mirrors are done this way. I only use lacquer on certain projects such as these watches. 

 

 

[orangeman]

I use Danish or Tung Oil on my hardwood puzzles.

 

I tried dipping the pieces but found it was too messy and used too much oil.

 

Instead I use a 1/2" glue brush to coat the pieces. I will coat probably a dozen pieces and then go back and wipe off the excess with a lint free rag or a piece of one of those blue paper towels from Home Depot.

 

I usually let the pieces dry for a week before packaging.

 

bb

[Sam777]

 

Sam it will work if you only dip once. I have done it many times before. Just for your information, Danish oil is just a much of a concern as BLO. Danish oil is blo, poly, mineral spirits and some driers mixed together. Do not clump rags in a pile. treat them and all oil products with concern. 

 

If you are looking for a matte, satin look then just do the Danish oil. If you want you can always add a wax finish. I use Watco satin polish on my projects all the time. 

 

I am not sure how I can show you the shine you can get but here is a magazine rack that was dipped in med walnut.

 

 

 

Here is one in natural

 

 

All my shelves and mirrors are done this way. I only use lacquer on certain projects such as these watches. 

 

 

John,

That tooooo impressive. Wow, I like all the above. I didn't know other oils are also of concern. Thank you for the caution.

I LIKE your magazine racks and more than that these awesome watches.

Thank you.

If these pieces come out fine, I will show you and the group some pictures.

Thank you

Sam

[Sam777]

I use Danish or Tung Oil on my hardwood puzzles.

 

I tried dipping the pieces but found it was too messy and used too much oil.

 

Instead I use a 1/2" glue brush to coat the pieces. I will coat probably a dozen pieces and then go back and wipe off the excess with a lint free rag or a piece of one of those blue paper towels from Home Depot.

 

I usually let the pieces dry for a week before packaging.

 

bb

Are these oils your final finish? No lacquer or poy after that?

Thanks

Sam

[amazingkevin]

Very very well done projects .good of you all to show your works .and a special thamks for the insite to finishing pros and cons plus a special memo on the fire hazards of contaminated rags!

[hawkeye10]

John,

I don't I want to mess with BLO (and the concern of rags igniting so on). I think I will stay with Danish oil as the final finish. Do you see anything wrong with that? assuming the oil finish will be even throughout the piece?

Also, I am not looking to get a glossy shiny finish. I like satin/matt finish on wood.

Thank again for your comments.

Sam

Sam you will never have a problem with rags catching on fire if you hang them up and let them dry. 

[hawkeye10]

Sam if I am using Watco for small things I dip them and for larger projects I use a sponge brush. I let it soak for 15 minutes and wipe off. After wiping off you don't have to worry about it dripping. For small things I place them on a piece of nylon window screen so air can get to both sides. After it dries I put a coat of paste floor wax on them. You can leave the wax off if you want.

[Sycamore67]

I use Danish oil for a lot of pieces. For stand-up puzzles, I put them in a Zip Loc bag with the Danish oil and shake a bit. I pull them out, wipe them and hang.

 

I have top coated with lacquer after completely dry with no problems. I also use semi-gloss poly and get good finish with no plastic look.

 

If I am in a hurry, I will dip in shellac. The Danish Oil takes awhile to dry completely.

[Sam777]

Thank you all for the comments/advice (overwhelming response).

Here is a 3/4 Walnut piece I just finished cutting. I have not sanded it at all.

I have following oil on hand:

Tung oil, Lemon oil, Danish oil (natural & dark walnut). What do you think I should use.

Thank you all

Sam

 

By the way, please feel free critiquing/comment on the cutting job

Edited December 11, 2016 by Sam777

[Roberta Moreton]

I worry about the BLO getting into the fretwork areas and getting gummy.  Then you get to have a dust magnet.

[Sam777]

I worry about the BLO getting into the fretwork areas and getting gummy.  Then you get to have a dust magnet.

Well, any suggestions

Thanks

Sam

[Roberta Moreton]

I have been using danish oil.  Sometimes mineral oil or lemon oil

[orangeman]

Are these oils your final finish? No lacquer or poy after that?

Thanks

Sam

One coat of oil is the final finish on hardwoods.

For those puzzles colored with food coloring I will use a Sherwin Williams lacquer as the Danish Oil will not seal in the color sufficiently.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Nice cutting Sam. What I suggest is if you have a piece of scrap left over do a little experimenting. Now with the board you used there is a variation in color in it which you will not even out so do not try. my opinion from what you have to work with I would first sand the project down with 220 grit paper ( I always sand to 220) Then blow the dust out of all the grain if there is any buildup of fine saw dust in the fret work make sure that is cleaned out (I use an exacto knife to do this at times) or else that will look dried out when finished. Many times the blade used to cut a piece out will determine the look of the fret cuts. Use a courser blade and the cuts have more open grain as opposed to using a finer blade where it closes the grain pores. Just like sandpaper will do.  This determines the absorption amount when finishing. I then would use the Dark walnut Danish oil because you chose walnut as the wood and it normally is a dark wood to begin with. With the light colored variations in the board it will deepen the tone more. Again it would help to experiment on some scrap before you commit. I would definetly use Danish oil no matter which one. The other choices will darken the wood somewhat but will dry out quickly and the board will look unfinished. 

 

Again if dipping make sure to let drain ( I always lay on the flat so it drain out of the fret work. If you hang it it will collect in the bottom of the fret work). Wipe down and let dry for a at least 3 to 4 days before deciding if you want to top coat it. If you ever see any pooling in any of the fret work that does not look good you can always clean out with mineral spirits or acetone. 

 

If the wood was a darker walnut I would have suggested to use the natural. I would show examples but the walnut I use is darker so it does not help you. Remember experiment before committing. These are my thoughts. Good luck and post when done.

[Sam777]

Nice cutting Sam. What I suggest is if you have a piece of scrap left over do a little experimenting. Now with the board you used there is a variation in color in it which you will not even out so do not try. my opinion from what you have to work with I would first sand the project down with 220 grit paper ( I always sand to 220) Then blow the dust out of all the grain if there is any buildup of fine saw dust in the fret work make sure that is cleaned out (I use an exacto knife to do this at times) or else that will look dried out when finished. Many times the blade used to cut a piece out will determine the look of the fret cuts. Use a courser blade and the cuts have more open grain as opposed to using a finer blade where it closes the grain pores. Just like sandpaper will do.  This determines the absorption amount when finishing. I then would use the Dark walnut Danish oil because you chose walnut as the wood and it normally is a dark wood to begin with. With the light colored variations in the board it will deepen the tone more. Again it would help to experiment on some scrap before you commit. I would definetly use Danish oil no matter which one. The other choices will darken the wood somewhat but will dry out quickly and the board will look unfinished. 

 

Again if dipping make sure to let drain ( I always lay on the flat so it drain out of the fret work. If you hang it it will collect in the bottom of the fret work). Wipe down and let dry for a at least 3 to 4 days before deciding if you want to top coat it. If you ever see any pooling in any of the fret work that does not look good you can always clean out with mineral spirits or acetone. 

 

If the wood was a darker walnut I would have suggested to use the natural. I would show examples but the walnut I use is darker so it does not help you. Remember experiment before committing. These are my thoughts. Good luck and post when done.

I will experiment with the left over pieces. You pointed my attention to something. I used #5 & 3 FDUR here. I am not sure if you can see the letter S in the pictures. The sides of that S are so shiny it looks like I buffed. I guess that is what fine blade does, especially when going feeding too slow (mainly around curves). Well another lesson learned

I will use your advice for the oil. I will try both the natural & dark walnut Danish Oil.

Thank you

Sam 

[hawkeye10]

I will experiment with the left over pieces. You pointed my attention to something. I used #5 & 3 FDUR here. I am not sure if you can see the letter S in the pictures. The sides of that S are so shiny it looks like I buffed. I guess that is what fine blade does, especially when going feeding too slow (mainly around curves). Well another lesson learned

I will use your advice for the oil. I will try both the natural & dark walnut Danish Oil.

Thank you

Sam 

I have two shades of walnut plus the natural in Watco and I can't tell the difference. I don't understand. I pay special attention to mixing.

[Lucky2]

Sam, you don't necessarily have to dip the piece, you could lay the piece on a cookie sheet and pour the danish oil over it.

Len

[Sam777]

Sam, you don't necessarily have to dip the piece, you could lay the piece on a cookie sheet and pour the danish oil over it.

Len

I guess, this another way

wouldn't we want to capture the oil for the next item?

Thanks

Sam