hawkeye10 Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 I bought these patterns and I need any tips you might want to share. Like blades, and do you round over the edges a little? Seems I remember some puzzles have the edges rounded over. http://www.scrolleronline.com/product/8087/353 Quote
browders Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 I use the smallest blade I can get away with based on thickness and type of wood. For me, a little sanding of the edges seems to work sufficiently. I know they make puzzle blades, but I've never tried one. Jim Quote
Dan Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 I am currently using FD-UR #5 for these thick puzzles. I'll probably try #3. The puzzle blades are for thinner jigsaw puzzles. I like to sand the edges with a mop sander as it feels better to me. Scrolling Steve 1 Quote
dgman Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 Do not use puzzle blades for thick standup puzzles. They are a 3/0 blade and designed for jigsaw puzzles. I use FD UR #3 blades for standup puzzles. Anything smaller will force you to apply lateral pressure on the blade causing it to cut at an angle. When that happens, your pieces will not fit together from either side of the puzzle. I use my sanding mop to round the edges of the pieces. It's quick and easy to do. Make sure you keep a firm hold of the piece as they tend to go flying across you shop. Scrolling Steve 1 Quote
ike Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 I have tried a #3 blade but not with much success I use a # 5 IKE Quote
Sam777 Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 I made some of these and like Dan said, I mostly used #3 and if you force that blade (depending on the wood) the puzzle will not fit together. Good luck Sam Quote
dgman Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 One thing I didn't mention above, and is the most important tip of all is make sure your table is completely perpendicular to the blade. Do not trust the angle gauge on your saw. Use a small square or a protractor or even the side of a credit card. If you are not square, the pieces will not fit together from both sides of the puzzle Quote
hawkeye10 Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Posted December 11, 2016 I haven't got my patterns yet but do you cut the outline of the dog first then cut it out a piece at a time? I am good on blades. I think I have all the FD UR blades. Can you tell I really like them? Quote
Dan Posted December 11, 2016 Report Posted December 11, 2016 It doesn't matter if you cut the outline first. If I'm cutting one puzzle I don't always cut the outline but if I'm cutting several from one board I do cut the outline first. Quote
Lucky2 Posted December 12, 2016 Report Posted December 12, 2016 Don, when cutting puzzles like this, I generally use a #3 or a #5 FR-UR blade. I sand around the exterior of the cutting to soften the edges, I usually use a Dremel tool to sand the edges. I like to cut the whole pattern from the wood in one piece, then I will cut the puzzle piece by piece. Once you start cutting these puzzles, you'll soon realize that there is a method to cutting them out. Study the pattern, you'll find the best place to start out and finish. Sometimes, just to make it easier on a larger puzzle, I'll cut the pattern into two pieces. Doing so, just makes it easier to handle the smaller pieces. Take your time, and don't force the wood into the blade. Be careful not to apply pressure to the side of the blade while cutting, it can cause the pieces to not fit together properly. The best thing you could do, is to take a copy of a pattern and apply it to a scrap piece of wood and cut away. Good luck. Len Quote
Iguanadon Posted December 12, 2016 Report Posted December 12, 2016 Hi Hawkeye, good luck, they're fun to make. This may help... http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/20547-iggys-animal-puzzle-assembly-line/ Quote
Sam777 Posted December 12, 2016 Report Posted December 12, 2016 Don, when cutting puzzles like this, I generally use a #3 or a #5 FR-UR blade. I sand around the exterior of the cutting to soften the edges, I usually use a Dremel tool to sand the edges. I like to cut the whole pattern from the wood in one piece, then I will cut the puzzle piece by piece. Once you start cutting these puzzles, you'll soon realize that there is a method to cutting them out. Study the pattern, you'll find the best place to start out and finish. Sometimes, just to make it easier on a larger puzzle, I'll cut the pattern into two pieces. Doing so, just makes it easier to handle the smaller pieces. Take your time, and don't force the wood into the blade. Be careful not to apply pressure to the side of the blade while cutting, it can cause the pieces to not fit together properly. The best thing you could do, is to take a copy of a pattern and apply it to a scrap piece of wood and cut away. Good luck. Len I like Len's Idea of cutting the puzzle out of a scrap wood Sam Quote
amazingkevin Posted December 12, 2016 Report Posted December 12, 2016 I test each piece i cut to make sure it fits,i check table blade plumb often. Quote
ike Posted December 12, 2016 Report Posted December 12, 2016 I lay my out on a board that the pattern just fits on . I do this in groups of 5 drill the Id holes and one starting hole for the outside cuts. cut the id holes then the od then I will take my square and check the allurement of the blade, then the pieces. I use a #5 blade on both the OD and the pieces.I have tried the #3 blade but I seem to push the blade too hardd and I have a lot of sanding. Usse your saw on a higher speed which is a lot easier to cut the puzzle pieces. IKE Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.