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Posted

I use the smallest blade I can get away with based on thickness and type of wood. For me, a little sanding of the edges seems to work sufficiently. I know they make puzzle blades, but I've never tried one.

 

Jim

Posted

Do not use puzzle blades for thick standup puzzles. They are a 3/0 blade and designed for jigsaw puzzles.

I use FD UR #3 blades for standup puzzles. Anything smaller will force you to apply lateral pressure on the blade causing it to cut at an angle. When that happens, your pieces will not fit together from either side of the puzzle.

I use my sanding mop to round the edges of the pieces. It's quick and easy to do. Make sure you keep a firm hold of the piece as they tend to go flying across you shop.

Posted

One thing I didn't mention above, and is the most important tip of all is make sure your table is completely perpendicular to the blade. Do not trust the angle gauge on your saw. Use a small square or a protractor or even the side of a credit card. If you are not square, the pieces will not fit together from both sides of the puzzle

Posted

It doesn't matter if you cut the outline first. If I'm cutting one puzzle I don't always cut the outline but if I'm cutting several from one board I do cut the outline first.

Posted

Don, when cutting puzzles like this, I generally use a #3 or a #5 FR-UR blade. I sand around the exterior of the cutting to soften the edges, I usually use a Dremel tool to sand the edges. I like to cut the whole pattern from the wood in one piece, then I will cut the puzzle piece by piece. Once you start cutting these puzzles, you'll soon realize that there is a method to cutting them out. Study the pattern, you'll find the best place to start out and finish. Sometimes, just to make it easier on a larger puzzle, I'll cut the pattern into two pieces. Doing so, just makes it easier to handle the smaller pieces. Take your time, and don't force the wood into the blade. Be careful not to apply pressure to the side of the blade while cutting, it can cause the pieces to not fit together properly. The best thing you could do, is to take a copy of a pattern and apply it to a scrap piece of wood and cut away. Good luck.

Len

Posted

Don, when cutting puzzles like this, I generally use a #3 or a #5 FR-UR blade. I sand around the exterior of the cutting to soften the edges, I usually use a Dremel tool to sand the edges. I like to cut the whole pattern from the wood in one piece, then I will cut the puzzle piece by piece. Once you start cutting these puzzles, you'll soon realize that there is a method to cutting them out. Study the pattern, you'll find the best place to start out and finish. Sometimes, just to make it easier on a larger puzzle, I'll cut the pattern into two pieces. Doing so, just makes it easier to handle the smaller pieces. Take your time, and don't force the wood into the blade. Be careful not to apply pressure to the side of the blade while cutting, it can cause the pieces to not fit together properly. The best thing you could do, is to take a copy of a pattern and apply it to a scrap piece of wood and cut away. Good luck.

Len

I like Len's Idea of cutting the puzzle out of a scrap wood :)

Sam

Posted

I lay my out on a board that the pattern  just fits on . I do this in groups of 5 drill the Id holes and one starting hole for the outside cuts. cut the id holes then the od then I will take my square and check the allurement of the blade, then the pieces. I use a #5 blade on both the OD and the pieces.I have tried the #3 blade but I seem to push the blade too hardd and I have a lot of  sanding. Usse your saw on a higher speed which is a lot easier to cut the puzzle pieces.

IKE

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