Wood for animal puzzles.

[hawkeye10]

I made my first puzzle out of pine when I picked it up I broke a piece off. That happening to a child might be a chocking hazard. I have read some use poplar which I can buy for $1.60 a board foot while the pine is $1.05 a foot. Price doesn't matter when we are talking safety. I am now cutting one out of "alder". I will let you know how it turns out. So what wood or woods do y'all use?

 

Merry Christmas

[Iguanadon]

I use poplar... but... due to the tight grain it does snap easily at narrow parts, so just be aware.

[dgman]

I don't cut the Woodimal puzzles, but t do cut a lot of standup puzzles. I always use hard woods like Cherry, Maple and Red Oak. Why? Because the harder, the less likely to break. Poplar and Alder are hardwoods but are softer than others, so I don't use them.

[orangeman]

I use only hardwoods for my puzzles because of their durability. Cherry, maple, walnut, padauk, locust, etc. I avoid poplar like the plague for the reason you mentioned.

Edited December 21, 2016 by orangeman

[Dan]

Although I haven't tried it, some folks use BB plywood. I could see using 1/2" but 3/4" may be a little tougher. I may try some this weekend.

[Lucky2]

For me, it all depends on what the puzzle will be used for. If it is just going to be used as a decoration, then fine, I will use pine, poplar, or any other kind of wood. If the puzzle is to be used by a small kid, then I use baltic birch. I use the BB because it's so durable, it hardly ever breaks, not even the tabs. No matter what type of wood you use, there's always a chance of it breaking especially where the wood is thin in areas. I always sand the BB before I glue the pattern on, and when I'm done cutting the puzzle out, I remove the pattern paper with after-wash. It's the same as paint thinner, and it removes every bit of glue residue. After all of the glue residue is removed, then I can use whatever I want for a finish.

Len 

[ike]

I will use any wood that the pattern fits on. 

IKE

[hawkeye10]

Although I haven't tried it, some folks use BB plywood. I could see using 1/2" but 3/4" may be a little tougher. I may try some this weekend.

Dan I have been thinking about using BB ply but as I have read here on the SSV forum these puzzles need to be 3/4" thick to stand up. I do have some 1/2" but no 3/4". Like you I think I will try some this weekend. I think BB ply would look okay. 

[dgman]

Dan I have been thinking about using BB ply but as I have read here on the SSV forum these puzzles need to be 3/4" thick to stand up. I do have some 1/2" but no 3/4". Like you I think I will try some this weekend. I think BB ply would look okay.

 

The wood does need to be at least 3/4" in order to standup easily. I usually use 7/8". I would not use less than 3/4".

[amazingkevin]

Dan I have been thinking about using BB ply but as I have read here on the SSV forum these puzzles need to be 3/4" thick to stand up. I do have some 1/2" but no 3/4". Like you I think I will try some this weekend. I think BB ply would look okay. 

glue two pieces together.

[ike]

I have used 5/8 it  works ok but not as good as 3/4

IKE

[hawkeye10]

glue two pieces together.

Ding ding ding!!! Kevin you amaze me. I don't know why I didn't think of that.

 

Merry Christmas

[NC Scroller]

I make stand up puzzles but few are the Woodimal ones.  I use mostly soft maple, oak and walnut.  I have used some pine but only the clear pine (no knots) and only on puzzles with no fragile parts.  The only time I have used poplar is for a penguin puzzle because I stain it to get the colors I want.  To me the $0.50 or $1.00 more per puzzle it costs to use better woods is worth it.