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An effective scroll saw 'rip fence' ?


allpurpose

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I used to have several of these round wood tops to fit over the aluminum top of my saw. I had them nice and polished so things were smooth and so on, but the moisture and general carelessness did them in so they ended up in the trash heap.

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q490/atheola/20170111_063915_1.jpg

Now one had a small rip fence I fashioned to it and it worked for a while, but that was before I figured out how to get the saw to cut straight without wandering.

So now I'm wondering if anyone else has figured out how to use a rip fence for the sroll saw.

Yeah, I know..learn how to cut straight to begin with and so on, but there are times when the table saw is just too big and I want a small piece cut as close to straight as I can get with the scroll saw.. so anyways..has anyone else found a need for any sort of ripping fence? I might just play around with this idea again and make some new tops with better material than cheapo luan and/or thin plywood. I have some nice, thin maple and walnut I might fiddle around with to see if I can get this to work the way I sort of had it working once upon a time..

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I don't use fence either and I don't think it will work well enough to bother with.  I find that the blade tends to wonder to the left all by its self and I have to constantly adjust it as I saw.  I could be wrong but I thought that this natural  "drift" is caused by the way scroll saw blades are made,  I believe that they are stamped rather than ground, so the teeth all tend to be on one side of the blade.  I also find that the blades natural tendency to wonder left also varies with the blade size and type.   For that reason, if I need to cut a price absolutely straight and if possible, I just use a different saw.  If that isn't possible I just go very slow when cutting the straight line and hope for the best.   I hope this helps.

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There are a number of variables that affect ones ability to cut a straight line with a scrollsaw.  Most blades have some amount of drift that needs to be compensated for.  Unfortunately the amount of drift is inconsistent and can vary by brand, type, size, batch and even the amount of wear on the blade.  These are probably reasons why most scrollers don't bother with fences on their scrollsaw.  We just develop a sense for how the blade is cutting and adjust accordingly.

 

That said, I understand what you are trying to do.  Perhaps a small bandsaw would give you better results.  Drift can also be an issue with the bandsaw, but typically the causes are within the saw, as opposed to the blade and there are ways to tune the saw to minimize the amount of drift.  Just a thought.

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If you have a band saw that would be the better way to go about that. With that said most people above told you the reasons it is probably tough to do. If you want to play around and try it get yourself some larger blades like a #9 or larger so they o not flex as much as thinner blades. Use some scrap wood and draw a line down the top and start cutting freehand as best as possible. When you think you have the saw cutting along the line as straight as you see fit, stop the saw but do not move the wood being cut. You will now see the amount of drift for that particular blade as the wood will be a somewhat of an angle.

 

Take a pencil and trace the edge of the wood onto the table. That is now your reference point. Whatever size that you want to cut will be measured off that line. Now take a straight piece of wood or metal (I would use a piece of aluminum from Home Depot) and use some double sided tape. You now reference the edge of the aluminum off your marks. It is the only way you will have a shot at this. You can use this method for cutting on a bandsaw also to compensate for drift of the blade. Good luck and hope you understand what I just wrote. 

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Because of the 'drift' issue, I've never used a fence on the scroll saw. It may be possible to do so, but I've never had an issue cutting a straight line. I think it would be a pain to try to set the fence up, so that you can cut a straight line. You would still have to take blade drift into consideration, and how many times would you need to set it up for one pattern? 

Len

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Yup..a bandsaw would be pretty spiffy and I really should get one one of these days or build one from scratch.

I've got a pretty good selection of blades for various reasons. Some drift a lot and some not much at all. Selecting them isn't easy with my old eyeballs and organization was never my strong suit, but I'm slowly getting better at it

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I used to have several of these round wood tops to fit over the aluminum top of my saw. I had them nice and polished so things were smooth and so on, but the moisture and general carelessness did them in so they ended up in the trash heap.

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q490/atheola/20170111_063915_1.jpg

Now one had a small rip fence I fashioned to it and it worked for a while, but that was before I figured out how to get the saw to cut straight without wandering.

So now I'm wondering if anyone else has figured out how to use a rip fence for the sroll saw.

Yeah, I know..learn how to cut straight to begin with and so on, but there are times when the table saw is just too big and I want a small piece cut as close to straight as I can get with the scroll saw.. so anyways..has anyone else found a need for any sort of ripping fence? I might just play around with this idea again and make some new tops with better material than cheapo luan and/or thin plywood. I have some nice, thin maple and walnut I might fiddle around with to see if I can get this to work the way I sort of had it working once upon a time..

Here you go! I used my finger to imitate a fence and could scroll a straight line with a spiral 3' long.My John 3:16 in pine was the one I'm talking about .Many passes 3' long on this one in white pine.

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  • 8 months later...

The comments about how the milling of blades causes drift with fences is valid with conventional blades but the use of spiral blades causes equal drift in all directions which means no drift at all. The added advantage is that spiral blades are non directional so I have been able to cut straight lines over a metre long by moving the wood to the side rather than away from me. I have a Hegner Multicut 1 and improvised a fence with a straight piece of wood and 2 clamps. The only negative is that spiral blades cut a wider kerf.

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Just draw a straight line on your wood and stay on the line when cutting it.. :lol:

No seriously that is what I did before I had a table saw or bandsaw.. it can be done but you need to take your time.. don't push the wood through just let the blade do the cutting. If you have access to a belt sander or even just a long sanding board you could always get it close then sand it to be the size you need..

But in all honesty.. you're better off with a table saw

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