My first real project is too fragile

[BeerBrewer]

I'm still learning how to use my new Dewalt Scroll saw and I've got a few questions for you folks.  

 

First let me begin by stating I'm not all that new using a scroll saw, but this saw is far better than anything I've owned of used in the past.  Most of my scrolling was done for Intarsia, wood carving or misc. projects. My older saws all used pinned blades that were a real PITA to change, so I did not do any real detailed fretwork.  Now that I have my 788, I started playing around with some fretwork and enjoy, but I've got questions.  I made a few real simple pieces, then I made a butterfly following a pattern a scroll saw book that I bought.  I came across really interesting patterns of trees cut into a circle that looked like fun projects. I even started with one that I found in pattern library on this site, but it was way to delicate and broke while I was cutting it.  I tried cutting it twice, first using a 3/4" pine and then 3/4" poplar, but both broke. Frustrated I looked to the web for a different pattern, one sturdier for old fumble fingers (me). I found one that I thought would work but it was actually made with metal and not wood, so it needed some changes.  I copied and pasted the pic into power point, scaled it to the size I wanted (about 11-1/4"), printed it out, pasted it on a piece of 3/4" poplar and then went about cutting it out.  Hopefully I attached a picture of it below.  

 

Overall I'm happy with the piece, but it too is very fragile.  I even broke off a tiny branch (left middle of the tree....you can see the odd gap in the branches) as I making the very last cut!!  I think I can glue in the missing branch.  There are few other branches that are in danger of breaking as well, due to the wood grain.  I was thinking of gluing the entire piece to thin piece of plywood or possibly maybe even a picture, like a sunset, to shore it up.

 

What is the best way to reinforce the piece?  Should I have used plywood instead?  If so what type?  Where would I find it?

 

Thanks  

[Scrappile]

Fragile is the name of the game for detail fretwork.  It will be stronger and more stable when you attach a packer.  I also, while scrolling, if I have a real fragile area, turn the piece over and put a drop or two of medium CA glue (Super Glue) on that spot.  Let it soak in a little and them spray with activator.

 

You did a great job on that pattern, I did it just before Christmas.  It was fun. 

[MTCowpoke22]

A plywood backing board would help a lot. One thing is as you do more, you learn how to hide breaks and mistakes. For the most part, if you don't point it out, no one will ever know. But where long term stability is a concern, think about the material you're using. While regular wood looks great, they can be more fragile due to the grain patterns and directions. Most scrollers use thin plywoods, seems like Baltic birch is a favorite, for delicate fretwork because it's more stable than most natural woods.   

[Scrolling Steve]

Like Paul and Tim said a backer will really stabilize the work....Most of my fretwork is cut from Baltic Birch ply, which i purchase primarily from Woodcraft or Sloans......I also study the pattern as i cut it and if an area looks like it will be a problem i may tweak the cut a little ...the pattern is after all just a guide.

[Ken O]

I have had a few where I tape a piece back in the original hole because I know if I catch my finger on it that it will break. Seems to help at least when you are cutting. Afrerwards they are usually glued to a backer so I don't need to worry too much. 

[Ron Johnson]

I'll study an intricate pattern prior to cutting so I'm aware ahead of time of some of the issues that can arise. Once I've planned a general route visually which only takes a few minutes I than give thought to other considerations. Such as blade type, backer board, tape and etc. This training of thought soon becomes automatic and before you know it you're challenging yourself to more intricate patterns.

When it comes to any fragile area to be cut I use packing tape to help give it more strength.

You've done an excellent job cutting Bob. Well done. If you altered a branch a little, then it was meant to be ... right.

Edited February 3, 2017 by Ron Johnson

[WayneMahler]

I do a lot of delicate or fragile work. I have found that using a zero clearance insert over the blade opening helps a lot. I also use a backer board and stack cut them. Looking at a pattern and figuring out where the "danger" areas are I cut them first. Also as mentioned above putting the cut out back in ans securing it with a piece tape helps stabilize the work. I use playing card taped to my table top for zero clearance, they lay flat and offer no interference as long as you make sure the tape is flat. A quick cleaning assures good adhesion of the tape though. Nice work cutting that by way. I have cut a few of them and they are a lot of fun.

[crupiea]

Looks very nice, good work.

 

there are a couple things to do to prevent the stray pieces from snapping off.

 

One is the type of wood you are using.  regular plywood will have filler between the layers and is not very stable when cutting small pieces. baltic birch is pretty much the go to for scroll sawing.

 

next would be to notice that its the unsupported pieces that will snap so its the up and down motion of the blad on that long unsupported strand that will make it snap.  Easy enough to remedy that by just putting a finger over the long piece to keep it in place.  also I like to cut out the longest pieces last because they will snap off just from the spinning and what not when cutting all the other pieces out.

 

Last would be the blade and the speed.  fast is not always better.  i saw on the slowest possible speed and wish my saw went slower. just gives my more control. 

 

just work with it and you will find what works.

 

great start .

 

[heppnerguy]

 I would also go with Baltic Birch ply for this piece, I, personally. would have used 1/4 inch thick material for this one. Here is a tip that I think will help you.....if I was doing as I just mentioned I would use a #2/0 blade or a #1 spiral blade. Then I would start cutting this pattern at it's middle and area and work out because you are  less likely to have no support on the fragile cuts that way. But if there is an place that is extremely fragile you may want to cut that area first.  I too have the same saw and for me, I find the speed setting of 2 to 5 helps me achieve the most accurate cuts. The zero clearance suggestion is a really good one and stack cutting also helps bring strength and support where you are cutting. However, if you are using 1/4 inch BB ply and the #2/0  blade, like I do, then stack cutting puts too much wear and adds too much time to the project for me and in that case I do not stack cut. If I choose 1/8  inch BB Ply then I probably would stack cut even with that blade choice.

 

  I admire you for diving into the fret patterns so soon. But if you find they discourage you then I would suggest to pick easier patterns to start  with and progress as your confidence increases. I love your work and remember if you see a place that worries you too much on a pattern, just adjust the cut to make that place stronger..Only you will know,  unless you point it out as you did  on this one

 

Dick

heppnerguy

Edited February 4, 2017 by heppnerguy

[SCROLLSAW703]

As some have said, study your project before ya start cuttin'. Cut around the fragile areas & leave them til towards the end of project. When you get to the fragile areas, use as small a blade as possible, & slow your blade speed down so there is not much vibration. 

 

As a rule, ya start in the middle of the project & work out. But there are exceptions to the rule. I've done tractors, combines, trucks, etc., & around the tires & fenders, the header on the combine were very fragile. I cut into some of the pieces just to get cuts started, but left it til i finished the rest of the project. my .02.

[Sparkey]

I have to agree with a backer. When I cut something delicate I always start at the most breakable spot and work my way out.

[amazingkevin]

I do a lot of delicate or fragile work. I have found that using a zero clearance insert over the blade opening helps a lot. I also use a backer board and stack cut them. Looking at a pattern and figuring out where the "danger" areas are I cut them first. Also as mentioned above putting the cut out back in ans securing it with a piece tape helps stabilize the work. I use playing card taped to my table top for zero clearance, they lay flat and offer no interference as long as you make sure the tape is flat. A quick cleaning assures good adhesion of the tape though. Nice work cutting that by way. I have cut a few of them and they are a lot of fun.

I believe what Wayne is saying about the zero clearance on your scroll table where the blade goes true it will help greatly.It offers support for fragile thin pieces.

[ike]

I always stack  3 pcs. . of plywood filigreeing that I will loose one piece. More times than not I end up with all 3 but if I loose one I feel good and if I gt all 3 pieces it's great.

IKE

[stoney]

I agree with most of the advice given but I would like to add my 2 cents worth.   If you prefer the look of solid wood for any particular fretwook pattern with very fragile areas I would suggest using a hardwood such as oak, walnut, hickory, etc.   With thinner hardwood I would also use a sacrificial piece of plywood or Masonite to back it up while cutting.  I like others have suggested would start cutting the most fragile areas first.   If I am going to screw up I like to do it first so I can decide if I can live with it or scrap the piece before I have invested a lot time. LOL   

[Fish]

As others suggested, when I did this design I used 3/4" Oak. I used #3 & 4 skip tooth. I finished it with semi gloss poly. I did it for some other people who held a very special place in my life, as well as my wife. It is a beautiful design done in metal.  It is a design of the Tree of Life done by Bill and Elaine Snell, BlackCat Artworks from Easley South Carolina, Elaine is the one who designed it. The first one I finished I sent to them simply thanking them. Mr. Snell made a metal base for it and gave it to his wife. I found these folks first and obtained permission to use the design. When I requested from them to post the pattern here on SSV they asked me not to,  I honored their request out of simple respect, as well as law.   I would be sure and give these folks the credit for the design.  They have many other incredible designs done in metal-