stevan Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) I don't mean you have to be older, your Hawk has to be older. I've managed to end up with a 25 year old HAWK 220VS. I'll post the story later but right now I have a couple of questions about the lower blade chuck and the clip it fits in. This saw has been sitting in a garage for about its entire life so there is some rust and a couple of missing parts (on order from Bushton right now but the a new and more current lower blade chuck is on back order). The lower blade chuck does not appear to ever have had a T-knob screw and has to be tightened with an Allen wrench although the manual does show a lower blade chuck with a T-Knob. First photo. The blade holder is supposed to fit into a "lower blade holder C clip" on the lower arm but it appears that this lower blade chuck is too small to fit the "lower blade holder C clip". Third and fourth photos. It would appear to me that the tension in the blade should hold the blade chuck in place and the C clip’s function is to keep the chuck in place during installation of the blade and if (and when) the blade breaks. The C clip is plastic and not a very substantial member. So my questions are: Do I have the correct lower blade chuck? Is the chuck supposed to fit snugly into the C clip? Is my assumption on the function of the C clip close to being correct. And just as a “This is interesting†note the second photo shows my Hawk chuck with three Jet lower blade chucks. I didn’t mic these but they appear to be about 1/32†smaller in diameter than Hawk chuck. I think these may work if I can figure out the clip issue mentioned above. Thanks in advance. Edited February 7, 2017 by stevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I wish I could help but I have never used a Hawk with the lower "barrel" clamp. But the lower clip should hold the clamp in place. Is the clip plastic ? if not then I would gently bend it back s that holds the clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I also picked up an older Hawk 220VS last October.. While I haven't used it much because my comfort level was with my DeWalt and was too busy with holiday orders to try a new saw.. LOL You blade chuck etc.. looks just like mine.. so I assume you have the right one.. I have T-handle thumb screws with mine.. and I believe they was quite worn. I tried to sand them flat again but messed them up so I went to the hardware store and bought new upper and lower thumb screws and set screws with some loc-tite to keep the set screws from moving around over time. So far it's been good.. but I did also order a couple new lower barrel clamps and thumb screws from Hawk.. First upgrade I did was to get rid of that stupid blower hose that just hangs there bouncing around while sawing.. was annoying to me.. I upgraded to the newer larger hose and flexable link blower hose.. love it as now I can aim the dust to blow away from me rather than blowing it all over my lap.. Did have to drill the hole slightly larger for the hose to fit through the stand.. If I was you, I'd get some thumb screws.. maybe someone had a issue with the worn thumb screw and replaced it with a allen cap / set screw? I was wondering about the new Jet blade holders being the same or not.. I bet they would work just fine.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevan Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 If I was you, I'd get some thumb screws.. maybe someone had a issue with the worn thumb screw and replaced it with a allen cap / set screw? I had not thought about this. Thanks, good starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Oh, the plastic clamp piece on the lower arm is correct.. it only holds the barrel there in place.. other wise it'd be a pain in the rear for fret work.. once you have tension it doesn't even touch that plastic piece. If you didn't have that and broke a blade.. you probably would loose the blade barrel clamp LOL.. It can be bent down slightly for installing the blade holder into place.. actually not sure, I don't even remember if its plastic or metal..think plastic.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevan Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I wish I could help but I have never used a Hawk with the lower "barrel" clamp. But the lower clip should hold the clamp in place. Is the clip plastic ? if not then I would gently bend it back s that holds the clamp. It is plastic so no bending. I'm sure Hawk would sell me a new lower arm with the more modern blade clamp. What worries me though is in conversation with Hawk customer service, the technician first asked what kind of motor the saw had and then said, "The Fasco's are not very reliable but we have a $350.00 upgrade/replacement". The person I bought the saw from said that he doubts if the saw has 5 hours total running time so I think (er, uh, hope) the motor should last a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevan Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Oh, the plastic clamp piece on the lower arm is correct.. it only holds the barrel there in place.. other wise it'd be a pain in the rear for fret work.. once you have tension it doesn't even touch that plastic piece. If you didn't have that and broke a blade.. you probably would loose the blade barrel clamp LOL.. It can be bent down slightly for installing the blade holder into place.. actually not sure, I don't even remember if its plastic or metal..think plastic.. So what do you think is the function of the bronze bushing? Lubrication and/or to keep the steel blade chuck from contacting the aluminum lower arm? I asked Bushton and they said that without asking an engineer, they just think it was a method to help keep the chuck in the clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 So what do you think is the function of the bronze bushing? Lubrication and/or to keep the steel blade chuck from contacting the aluminum lower arm? I asked Bushton and they said that without asking an engineer, they just think it was a method to help keep the chuck in the clip. It's because the bushing is softer metal than the blade holder.. and the lower arm.. plus I think it is a special bronze bushing that has lube in it.. They make special bronze with a self lube mixed in the bronze for lube purposes.. The arms on these is just made from aluminum so without that bushing that barrel clamp would eat up that lower arm in no time.. While talking about the arms etc.. on the top arm at the back of the saw there is a wedge.. make sure to put a couple drops of oil on this.. also that wedge should be quite pointed.. almost to the point it would be sharp and then just rounded over slightly to keep it from being sharp.. If that is worn it will change the blade tension during the stroke.. and the blades in the lower portion will break.. Supposedly my saw was new too.. when I got it.. but that wedge was worn enough to say otherwise.. of coarse after I purchased it ans learned the hard way LOL.. I took the wedge off and laid flat on a sanding block on both sides until it was quite pointed again.. was really hard to tell how much it really was worn until I took it off.. worn more on one side than the other.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 That plastic retaining clip is a piece that stretches with time but can be bought. I replaced mine with a piece of thin spring steel. I do not have the barrel clamps but it still uses the plastic retainer. That is correct if you did not have that if a blade broke the bottom clamp would fall off and probably get lost in the mounds of saw dust you will be making. Good luck they are a good reliable saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchux Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Have basically the same saw but model Hawk G426. Never had that problem since I received my unit. Did contact Bushton service group as to why I was snapping so many blades in the beginning, and they gave me good info. woodchux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiloquinruss Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) I have a 7 year old Hawk and soon after I got it I got tired of messing with the t-screws. So I made this little tool to assist me in using my wonderful Hawk. Please excuse the poor pix (my phone is old, just like me). Russ Edited February 8, 2017 by Chiloquinruss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I also picked up an older Hawk 220VS last October.. While I haven't used it much because my comfort level was with my DeWalt and was too busy with holiday orders to try a new saw.. LOL You blade chuck etc.. looks just like mine.. so I assume you have the right one.. I have T-handle thumb screws with mine.. and I believe they was quite worn. I tried to sand them flat again but messed them up so I went to the hardware store and bought new upper and lower thumb screws and set screws with some loc-tite to keep the set screws from moving around over time. So far it's been good.. but I did also order a couple new lower barrel clamps and thumb screws from Hawk.. First upgrade I did was to get rid of that stupid blower hose that just hangs there bouncing around while sawing.. was annoying to me.. I upgraded to the newer larger hose and flexable link blower hose.. love it as now I can aim the dust to blow away from me rather than blowing it all over my lap.. Did have to drill the hole slightly larger for the hose to fit through the stand.. If I was you, I'd get some thumb screws.. maybe someone had a issue with the worn thumb screw and replaced it with a allen cap / set screw? I was wondering about the new Jet blade holders being the same or not.. I bet they would work just fine.. Interesting talk on a machine I've heard lots of good things about but have never seen one! It is plastic so no bending. I'm sure Hawk would sell me a new lower arm with the more modern blade clamp. What worries me though is in conversation with Hawk customer service, the technician first asked what kind of motor the saw had and then said, "The Fasco's are not very reliable but we have a $350.00 upgrade/replacement". The person I bought the saw from said that he doubts if the saw has 5 hours total running time so I think (er, uh, hope) the motor should last a while. Interesting talk on a machine I've heard lots of good things about but have never seen one! That plastic retaining clip is a piece that stretches with time but can be bought. I replaced mine with a piece of thin spring steel. I do not have the barrel clamps but it still uses the plastic retainer. That is correct if you did not have that if a blade broke the bottom clamp would fall off and probably get lost in the mounds of saw dust you will be making. Good luck they are a good reliable saw. Interesting talk on a machine I've heard lots of good things about but have never seen one! Have basically the same saw but model Hawk G426. Never had that problem since I received my unit. Did contact Bushton service group as to why I was snapping so many blades in the beginning, and they gave me good info. woodchux Interesting talk on a machine I've heard lots of good things about but have never seen one! I have a 7 year old Hawk and soon after I got it I got tired of messing with the t-screws. So I made this little tool to assist me in using my wonderful Hawk. Please excuse the poor pix (my phone is old, just like me). Russ Interesting talk on a machine I've heard lots of good things about but have never seen one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 I am old and have an older 216VS. I have gotten rid of the regular lower blade clamps and made my own. They are simple enough so that anyone with a drill press can probably make one. I have made several. The knob is available at any hardware store. A couple of the photos show the lower clamp in position and the rest are the clamps I have made. The original clamps are useless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 I am old and have an older 216VS. I have gotten rid of the regular lower blade clamps and made my own. They are simple enough so that anyone with a drill press can probably make one. I have made several. The knob is available at any hardware store. A couple of the photos show the lower clamp in position and the rest are the clamps I have made. The original clamps are useless. Going to take a little more than just a drill press to make those.. unless you have a source of round stock in the correct diameter and threaded on the inside.. I'd be a little concerned about using that metal against the aluminum arm without that lubricated bronze bushing too.. while there isn't much motion there to wear it out real fast.. it was originally designed to last a very long time.. There is a little rocking motion during the stroke to wear that out.. otherwise why would they use a lube mixed bronze bushing in there in the first place? I do agree.. simple made provided you have some round stock, a drill press, and a tap to make the threads.. that said.. the whole saw is simple made provided you have proper tools to make it... IMO By the way.. what is different between yours and the original that makes yours so much better? just wondering because they look the same.. other than the thumb screw.. which I can get for the original barrel at any hardware store.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevan Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Thanks Gang. I really appreciate the responses and all your knowledge and experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Going to take a little more than just a drill press to make those.. unless you have a source of round stock in the correct diameter and threaded on the inside.. I'd be a little concerned about using that metal against the aluminum arm without that lubricated bronze bushing too.. while there isn't much motion there to wear it out real fast.. it was originally designed to last a very long time.. There is a little rocking motion during the stroke to wear that out.. otherwise why would they use a lube mixed bronze bushing in there in the first place? I do agree.. simple made provided you have some round stock, a drill press, and a tap to make the threads.. that said.. the whole saw is simple made provided you have proper tools to make it... IMO By the way.. what is different between yours and the original that makes yours so much better? just wondering because they look the same.. other than the thumb screw.. which I can get for the original barrel at any hardware store.. Mine aren't better just simpler. I just think that using a bronze bushing is a little over engineered. The rocking of the bottom clamp is nearly zero. I think it would take years of use to wear the lower arm. I could be wrong and I frequently am. Just thought the bronze bushing just kind of got in the way. kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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