Solo Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hi all well i just got my new toy and need some advice on blades. They included 2 blades but i dont know what size they are, their only about 3/32 thick front to back and cut 1/4 in ply ok but seem flexy. I also need some that will cut 1/2 and 3/4 pine well. Will be making some sign letters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 if the blades are flexing you may have not enough tension on them. The blade should "ping" when plucked. Do not feed the wood too quickly. Scroll saw is a slow cutting saw , the slowest in my shop. Especially in wood over 1/2" thickness. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 The best place to start on blades is to do a search on scroll saw blade chart and go to images. There are lots of them. It will tell you what size is intended for what thickness of wood. The blades you get with your saw are probably not very good blades, nor are ones you can buy at most big box stores. Probably the most common ones used are Flying Dutchman, Olsen, and I am reading good comment about Pegas blades. It is hard to tell a person what to use, because it is personal preference. When I started I purchased a combination set from one of the vendors and tried different ones. That got me into the ball park of what I like. I kept experimenting from there and now know what I like although I still try different ones just to see. The is probably the most common question from beginners, and there are lots of answers. Do not let it intimidate you, you will get a feel for what works for you as you go along. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Congrats on the new saw, Enjoy ! Solo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solo Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks for the tips. I did tension the blade 1 more click and it is better am off to lowes to see what they have really wish there was 1 of the woodworking shops near by again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) You will do best using Pegas or Flying Dutchman blades, but these have to be ordered. You will likely find Olson blades locally. Most are OK, but you will notice a difference after you have used the Olson blades for a while and then try some of these other two brands. Keep the blades tight and run at a moderate speed.. Scroll saw blades don't last long. You should notice them not cutting so good after about 10 minutes to 1/2 hour. Blades are the cheapest part of scroll sawing, so don't push them past their useful life. A dull blade will over heat and burn your wood. Slow the saw speed down if you experience burning, but if you have been cutting for a while, saw speed isn't likely the problem. It's usually a dull blade. Learning to follow the lines of your pattern accurately, and making smooth curves takes practice. Don't expect perfect results in the beginning. You will get better at it with more experience. Scrolling is a slow process. Don't try to force the wood through the saw. Just give the wood enough pressure to keep it moving forward. Scroll saw blase teeth are tiny and can only hold small amounts of sawdust.. Try to keep light pressure while feeding the wood into the saw and concentrate on using your fingers to feed and steer the wood, and not your arms. Scroll sawing a project is a journey, not a race or destination. Work slowly and concentrate on following the pattern lines. Stopping and changing direction 90 degrees or more is something else that takes practice, and the right saw blade. . Don't get frustrated. You have one of the best saws, so all you need to do now is to learn how to drive it. I usually run 3.5 - 4 on the tension setting, but when replacing the blade, put slight downward pressure of a couple of pounds with one hand on the upper saw arm as you tighten the second blade clamp with the other hand. Doing this will remove any play in the saw mechanism, allowing you to get very repeatable tension settings each time you replace a blade. Always return the tension setting to zero when replacing the blade. Then set the tension after the blade has been locked in place. Patience and accepting the slow speed of scroll sawing is probably the most difficult things for new scroll sawyers to get used to. Let the project be completed whenever it is, instead of trying to meet a time goal. Concentrate on quality rather than speed. We will help you as you progress. The only dumb question is the one that doesn't get asked. If you can post pictures of your work it will help us give you hints for improvement. Charley Edited February 7, 2017 by CharleyL Solo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Congrats on the new saw. I don't think you will find blades at lowes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I like olson's blades best. I can't see much difference between the and Flying Dutchman it's just your preference. and I can buy them at Menards The blades you but at lowes are not of good quality. and Home depot don't carry them at all. buy #3,#5, and #7 those are the most used sizes. IKE luy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) I agree. I use flying Dutchman blades and Olsen precision ground blades, I find the Olsen's to cost more but last a lot longer. (I am cutting 3/4" stock for the most part). Edited February 8, 2017 by Jim Finn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmaker Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Hi Solo; I just got my new Dewalt also and I have been searching high & low for blades. I came across a video on You Tube and I wrote down this chart for blades. #2 blade for 1/4" soft wood, #5 blade for 3/4" soft wood, #7 blade for 3/4-1" hardwood, #9 blade for 1 1/2-2 1/2" hardwood and #12 blade for straight cuts/rips. I hope this helps and hopefully this is accurate. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Hi all well i just got my new toy and need some advice on blades. They included 2 blades but i dont know what size they are, their only about 3/32 thick front to back and cut 1/4 in ply ok but seem flexy. I also need some that will cut 1/2 and 3/4 pine well. Will be making some sign letters Lucky you to start out with a next to the top of the line scroll saw.Lots of creature features to make scrolling fun instead of a chore.A foot pedal on off switch will be a big help for you as one less operation to deal with scrolling.You'll be making great projects right out of the box to keep your creativity interest going strong.Show us how big a saw dust pile you make soon! rmaker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Congratulations on the new saw an welcome to scrolling. On major rookie mistake is not understanding that blades a a disposable commodity like sand paper and paper towels. The effective life of a blade is only between 5 and 30 minutes and that depends on the type and thickness of the materials you are cutting. This is why many experienced scrollers buy blades by the gross. Flying Dutchman, Olsen, and Pegasus and the brands to stick with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Congrats on the new saw and welcome to the group First suggestion is to throw away the blades that came with your saw. Second suggestion is to spend some time at mikesworkshop.com. I can't post a link from this browser, but that site will give you enough information to get you started and you can also order blades from there, if desired. It may seem a little overwhelming, but never fear, you can always post your questions here and folks will be glad to give you all sorts of opinions. Bottom line is that you first need to understand the basics of blade sizes, types and tooth configuration. Then understand a little about what they are used for. Realize that you should try different blades to learn their capabilities, then understand that your choice of blade for your specific application will ultimately come down to a personal preference. Good luck and have fun making sawdust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solo Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Good advice thanks all!! Got an assortment pack of skill blades from lowes what junk! Should have bought a couple packs of the bosh blades they had but tried to save a couple bucks as i left there $70 poorer had to get some glue and wood but i have a foot switch and olson blades due here tomorrow so hopefully i chose well We will see. Half way thru a corner shelf will post a pic when finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solo Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Well this is what i have so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Nice job. Might I also suggest that you look into getting some smaller drill bits, so that you can hide your entry holes for the veining a little more. They are usually available from the major blade suppliers. Solo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solo Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Smallest bi i had was 1/16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) Depending on the size of blade you are using, numbered drill bits in the 64-71 range would probably be better for you. Blade vendors will provide recommended drill sizes for each blade on their websites. They're pretty cheap, but also very fragile, so it pays to buy them in quantity. By the way, the 1/16" bit is fine for entry holes where there is more waste to cut away, but for veining, the smallest bit that will allow the blade to pass through is what you want. Edited February 9, 2017 by Bill WIlson Solo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Date your first projects an look at them in a couple of months to see how you improve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solo Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Well got some olson blades and what a difference!! Now i just need some smaller drill bits and ill be ready for the next project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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