Stoning the Blade?

[stevan]

So I have this book, "Using the Scroll Saw" by Nick Engler, copyright 1994. In it he has a section on preparing the blade and says that you can remove the burr and round the back edges for a smoother, more controlled cut by using a small sharpening stone or hone to actually grind the burr off.

 

Does anyone really do this? I have attached a pdf with the relevant information. See pages 35 and 36.

Stoning the Blade.pdf

[kmmcrafts]

I have't heard of removing the burr.. but have read and tried rounding of the back side of the blade.. It does help some but I don't do it very often.. actually kind of forgot about it until you mentioned it, LOL 

[Fish]

I have used a fine file in the past. It seems to help more with thicker wood. I never thought of using a stone though. May be a better way to do it.

Edited February 10, 2017 by Fish

[CharleyL]

I've done that with band saw blades, but never tried it on scroll saw blades. I just use smaller blades on the scroll saw. With the band saw, doing this let me cut tighter arcs and I could back the blade out of a stopped cut much easier.

 

Charley

[Rolf]

When I do a fine inlay I round off the back edges of the blade I don't mess with the teeth.

[hawkeye10]

I always do it with my band saw but not my scroll saw.

[dgman]

I used to round the back corners of my blades till I discovered how to make sharp inside turns. As for the burr on the right side of the blade, it becomes second nature to compensate for it, plus I use the burr to help clean up the cut if I need it.

Anymore, I don't have a need to stone my scroll saw blades.

[Denny Knappen]

I have heard of this, but never used this process.

[WayneMahler]

Heard of using a fine file but not a stone. 

[heppnerguy]

I don't believe that I am aware of this process. I may have seen something about it somewhere but I have never tried it..I do not see myself taking the time to do that now either. sometimes i ignore things like this for a long time and eventually see a need to try it and then wish i would have done that in the first place

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[crupiea]

I go through a ton of blades, they are just a disposable tool for me. no time for sanding and polishing and all that.

[amazingkevin]

You bring back my early days scrolling.I had the worst time learning to make turns ,So i'd back out of a cut.not an easy job unless you file the back of your saw blades to a v.Since then i've learned so much on ?SSV i'm not needing to do that anymore.But on my band saw not being able to make sharp turns Filing the back of the blade on my band saw would save me the trouble of putting the blade back on both wheels again,lol.

[Tommy Johnson]

I don't even attempt to stone the backs of any of the blades I use. Sometimes though I do take a stone and smooth the top of the blade where you can fill a burr. If I drill a small hole that the blade will just go through sometimes that burr will keep it from going through. 

[NC Scroller]

I am like crupiea. Blades are meant to be used and then tossed. I think blade options and manufacturing have come a long way since the late 80's and early 90's. Most quality blades are ground and cut vs being stamped out so there is really no need.

[stoney]

Stoning the back of the blade is a very simple and quick process when done with the blade mounted in the saws blade clamps and proper tension applied.   You just have to turn the saw on and hold the stone against your left and right back edges at about a 30 to 45 degree angle for a few seconds.   I don't do this all that often but I do think it improves the turning in a tight corner situation. JMHO   

[nrscroller]

Hi

I use a fine diamond sharpening tool and round my corners and trim back edges only

nrscroller

[Ron Johnson]

I'll file the bottom to a fine point and back of blade only when I don't want the pre drilled holes shown on certain fretwork items. A process I use when needed. Otherwise I wax my blades.

Edited February 12, 2017 by Ron Johnson

[CharleyL]

I also frequently apply wax to my blades. I usually use an old candle or Paraffin wax block and just hold it briefly against each side of the blade while the saw is running and just before cutting. I do it again every few minutes. Paraffin wax is available in grocery stores in 1 lb boxes about the size of a 1 lb block of butter. I think the last box cost me less than $2.00, but it's been a while since I needed to buy any. You will find it where baking and canning supplies are located. Each box contains about 10 blocks. I usually saw each block in half as I need them, to make it easier to use. A box full probably lasts me 4 or more years, and I usually loose the smaller pieces before actually using them up.  I have never found that it caused any project finishing problems, so I have never worried about that. I also frequently apply paste wax to my saw table and the bottom of my clamping fixtures to make the work and the clamps slide easier, again with no finishing problems on my projects. Applying it to the cast iron tables of my tools also prevents rust.

 

Charley