Dave Monk Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 After I am done cutting a project I run over it with an orbital sander with 220 grit. Would be nice if the sander had a pad that had the edges tapered up with the paper rounded up so the edges wouldn't catch on the cut wood. You wouldn't think that would be hard to do. dave Scrolling Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 I agree.. happily, so far, I have not had any damage occur to a piece I have sanded but it is always a breath holder,anyway. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) This is my go to sander for just about any project I ever do. All my scrollwork 220 grit paper and I am done. www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-330-Speed-Bloc-Sheet-Sander/dp/B0000222Y9/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1488856522&sr=1-1&keywords=porter+cable+330+sander Edited March 7, 2017 by JTTHECLOCKMAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Hey Dave, I suppose you could trim off the excess with a sharp X-Acto knife. I haven't tried it yet, but I will next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Hey Dave, I suppose you could trim off the excess with a sharp X-Acto knife. I haven't tried it yet, but I will next time. Dan, Dave's not looking to remove extra sanding paper, he's wishing the sanding paper was larger so that it would curl up over the edges. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Dan, Dave's not looking to remove extra sanding paper, he's wishing the sanding paper was larger so that it would curl up over the edges. Len Yes Len, I understand that, but if the disk was trimmed down, it might not catch. It was just a though. I'm going to give it a try next time I'm ready to sand something. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCROLLSAW703 Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Dave, I use a palm sander with a slightly bigger piece of sand paper so that it will roll over the two outside edges. And a palm sander isn't as rough on the finished project. Dave Monk and Tommy Johnson 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 I have been using my ROS with 220 grit. Always does a nice job, although mine is hooked up for dust collection too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 After I am done cutting a project I run over it with an orbital sander with 220 grit. Would be nice if the sander had a pad that had the edges tapered up with the paper rounded up so the edges wouldn't catch on the cut wood. You wouldn't think that would be hard to do. dave Maybe you could add a sponge spray glued to the sander base and then bigger paper to go around it .i have self sticking sander base like Velcro.i just leave a Velcro piece of sand paper on spray glue what ever i like to it and don''t have to buy expensive sand paper from here on out.the sponge should work out great for you Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 I buy sanding discs for my bench top 8" sander, and just use them on the 6" orbital. The outer edge of the disc when on the smaller sander lifts up when in use and does not snag on any of the fret work tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Johnson Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 When I want to sand a piece that has been cut out I use my palm sander both front and back. Don't want the sander crabbing and of the pieces and breaking them. On the back if there are any fuzzies left I quickly hit them with a torch! Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Sand your wood before you cut the pattern & you wouldn't have to sand after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 After I am done cutting a project I run over it with an orbital sander with 220 grit. Would be nice if the sander had a pad that had the edges tapered up with the paper rounded up so the edges wouldn't catch on the cut wood. You wouldn't think that would be hard to do. dave They do. My Makita palm sander is made like that. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 They do. My Makita palm sander is made like that. Rusty, What model makita do you have? Orbital or sheet? Does it catch on your fret work? dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 I did most of the power sanding b4 cutting then finished by hand, don't know that's it any better but a 2 x 4 with rounded corners worked well on fret work Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Sand your wood before you cut the pattern & you wouldn't have to sand after. That is what I do. I don't understand sanding after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 All of my wood is pre-sanded, if I do post sand it is with my sandflee and a gentle touch with a mac mop to soften edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 theres a thing called an interface pad used in autobody for sanding. its basically a foam pad with H&L on both sides to slap on the sander then slap the sanding disk on the other side. im wondering iffen it might help sanding fretwork. aaaaaand I can insert a link! but I also use 6" discs on my 5" sander and it works pretty good. this, I assume, if you are referring to getting rid of any fuzzies from cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Rusty, What model makita do you have? Orbital or sheet? Does it catch on your fret work? dave The model number is B04510. It is an older sander. I have had it 30 to 35 years. I sand all of my fretwork and any other wood project and have never had a problem. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lehner Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 I guess I am the oddball in the group.... For all my finished pieces I sand both sides with a Mouse sander, various grits depending on the project. I've never had a problem with pieces breaking.... for shaping and fine tuning pieces for clock assembly I have an 6 inch belt sander with a 9 inch disk on the side. I also have a 1 inch belt sander with a 4 inch disk and a spindle sander for shaping I am probably a it unconventional in the way I do things but I am self taught and I guess it works for me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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