hawkeye10 Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 My blade is making the wood jump around. I have checked to see if the blade is square to the table and it is. So what do y'all think is wrong and how do you fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWSUDEKUM Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) There are several things that can cause the "hop". One the blade is upside down The blade is dull and is grabbing the wood You are feeding the wood too fast you are not holding the wood down to the table The 2 most likely suspects are the upside down blade and feeding the wood too fast. Try slowing your cutting a bit and making sure that your blade is right side up. A lot of the Flying Dutchman have a kink in the top end of the blade so that you can determine what way is up. DW Edited March 18, 2017 by DWSUDEKUM Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Don, what brand and type of blade are you using, and what type and thickness of wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed martin Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 The one thing that happens to me is the blade comes lose when cutting wood and losses blade tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 You said your blade... Just that one ? The best factories screw up now and then, try a different packages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotshot Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hawkeye, check the forward/back movement of the blade? The EX is notorious for blade travel if you've been messing with that back knob. Even the best tuned EX will have some blade travel, but it should be 1/16 or less. If it is out of whack, it's easy enough to adjust that back to the sweet spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iguanadon Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 How about blade speed, too slow will cause it to grab the wood depending on wood type and thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 It's doing it with no wood in there. I can put anything on the back of the blade and it will vibrate what ever. It's been doing it for a long time but here lately it's making me mad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 If you can not figure it out, call Seyco. Whether you purchased the saw from them or not, they will advise you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastcoaster Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 hi, another thing that will cause the blade to grab is if your piece of wood is buckled and bowed, especially if it's a bit thick and hardwood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 My blade is making the wood jump around. I have checked to see if the blade is square to the table and it is. So what do y'all think is wrong and how do you fix it? When i first started scrolling with big box store blades this never happened.But then years down the line i switched to scroll reverse blades and started having the problem your stating.The reverse part of the blade was the cause of the wood jumping.I learned to hold down the wood more .The benefits of the scroll reverse blades are clean no sand top and bottom of your projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye10 Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 When i first started scrolling with big box store blades this never happened.But then years down the line i switched to scroll reverse blades and started having the problem your stating.The reverse part of the blade was the cause of the wood jumping.I learned to hold down the wood more .The benefits of the scroll reverse blades are clean no sand top and bottom of your projects. Kevin I have the problem no matter what. I can start the saw like I was going to scroll but put a piece of wood against the back of the blade while the saw is running and the wood will vibrate. It really bothers me when I am turning corners. I am getting better at turning corners but they are still a problem for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Don You may have a bearing with play in it. Ray walked me through this a while ago. Give him a call and see what he has to say. It was about gently moving pieces and watching for movement in the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) There's going to be a small forward / backward movement of the blade because of the arc swing of the blade holders. These saws cannot move the blade perfectly straight up and down. It's just the way that the saw is designed. The short blade arms of the Excalibur, DeWalt, Porter Cable, and Delta saws of similar design all move the blade slightly forward and back, because of the arc swing motion of these short blade arms. It's about 1/16" and takes some getting used to, but other older saws, like my Delta Q3 have greater forward / back movement. Saws with C frames, like my Delta Q3 move the blade forward and back even more than your saw, but it's more of a rocking motion, where the blade tilts forward on the down stroke and backward on the up stroke. An Eclipse Scroll Saw is the only modern design scroll saw that pulls the blade both up and down that doesn't have any forward / backward movement of the blade. Sadly, they are no longer available. You can learn to make tight corners with all of these saws, but it takes practice, and small blades, The work will remain on the table if you either use the safety hold down (nobody does) or are prepared to hold the work down with sufficient force to keep the blade from lifting it. A larger blade will bind when making tight turns, causing the work to lift. Reverse teeth on the bottom end of the blade, or the blade installed upside down will also cause the work to lift with more force than you are prepared to hold down too. If you find that the blade binds too much when making tight turns, rounding the back edges of the blade with a small lapping stone will help. This also helps when making long dead end cuts and you need to back the blade out of the work. One of my students was having all kinds of trouble with my Q3 saw 2 weeks ago. He told me "it would only cut backwards". I found that he had installed the blade with the teeth on the back side. He was using a 1/0 blade, so couldn't see the teeth. I taught him to feel for the teeth direction using his fingers before installing the blade and he wouldn't have to see the teeth. All went well after that. He won;t likely do that again, but if he ever does, he now has the experience to be able to diagnose and fix his own blade installation problems. Charley Edited March 19, 2017 by CharleyL Joe W. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Not much to add to all the excellent things posted above, except: 1. Are you checking blade tension. With no wood, do you get a ping sound. Run it for a few minutes and see if you are maintaining that sound. 2. Is it possible that the blade is slipping in one or both clamps, and you are losing your original tension? If so, I rub the blade holding screws on the concrete to clean them. Also have sandpaper glued on a paint stick and sand both sides of each end of a new blade before inserting it. Hope you find a "cure" soon Friend. jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lehner Posted March 20, 2017 Report Share Posted March 20, 2017 Great advice from all above I also have to adjust the clamp set screw so the blade is centered and periodically I remove the set screws and rough them up for a better grip on the blade ... I use a file or scrape it on rough sandpaper seems to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted March 20, 2017 Report Share Posted March 20, 2017 Is it all the time or just when turning? The blade will bind if you turn too fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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