Is there a puzzle tutorial?

[JOE_M]

I'm looking for a decent tutorial on puzzle cutting - thin and thick. I checked the tutorials and did a keyword search on "puzzles" but didn't find anything. I've made a few jigsaw puzzles using family photos glued to 1/4" plywood. I used a puzzle blade and for the most part they came out fine but I found the cut was super aggressive and it was hard to control the cut. I do have a book "Making Wooden Jigsaw Puzzles" by Charles Ross, but I'm looking or any/all tips I can get.

My problems with the jigsaw puzzles are: fuzzy edges, controlling the cuts, visualizing the puzzle shape to cut (right now I'm just freehanding them with no pattern).

 

I'd also like to try some thicker animal puzzles for my young cousin. I see Iguanadon is making some great stuff and he mentioned in a recent post that he uses a #3 blade. I try with a #3 blade and the gap is too big, so they are very loose. Any tips for keeping a better fit on the thicker puzzles?

 

And last, I'd also love to know how to get that consistent rounded edge on all the pieces like on the thick puzzles or the intarisa. I've tried so many types of sanding, filing, routing but haven't found the perfect look yet.

 

Any/all help would be appreciated.

 

thanks

 

 

[Iguanadon]

Hi Joe,

 

I did a little write-up/description of my process for thick puzzles that you can see in the link below.  Hopefully it has some helpful information for you.

 

I'm kind of surprised that the you're having an issue with them being too loose when using a #3 blade.  I've found that they're just right.  I personally don't like them so tight that you can't easily assemble them.  I use Olsen Mach Speed blades by the way.

 

I now sell the Harvey Byler patterns if you're interested in any, just go to my website.  Anything you see on the site, I have the pattern for.  There's a section on my site for ordering them.

 

Let me know if you have any questions about my process.

 

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/20547-iggys-animal-puzzle-assembly-line/

 

Iggy

 

PS - Sorry, can't help you with the rounded edges question.  I don't do any sanding or touch up at all with my puzzles.

Edited April 4, 2017 by Iguanadon

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

There was a guy,and I am sorry but forgot his name, but maybe someone will remember him. He actually maybe a member here for he was a member of all the scrollsawing sites years ago. He would scroll the best looking puzzles and was famous for his scrollsawn stamp puzzles. He would send these to just about anyone requested one. I have one somewhere. he did a write up years ago and it was pretty detailed and he always tried to help others do them. He would take normal photos and scroll them into puzzles. I am drawing a blank on the name but if I come up with it I will post and maybe some one in the meantime will post it. I believe it was Fred -----. 

 

But there are tons of videos and tutorials on the net of how to make scrolled puzzles. Google is your friend.  

[Fab4]

There was a guy,and I am sorry but forgot his name, but maybe someone will remember him. He actually maybe a member here for he was a member of all the scrollsawing sites years ago. He would scroll the best looking puzzles and was famous for his scrollsawn stamp puzzles. He would send these to just about anyone requested one. I have one somewhere. he did a write up years ago and it was pretty detailed and he always tried to help others do them. He would take normal photos and scroll them into puzzles. I am drawing a blank on the name but if I come up with it I will post and maybe some one in the meantime will post it. I believe it was Fred -----. 

 

But there are tons of videos and tutorials on the net of how to make scrolled puzzles. Google is your friend.  

Hi John:

Would you be thinking of Carter

Info on him below

Fab4

Edited April 4, 2017 by Fab4

[Fab4]

I Googled Carter Scroll Saw Village and this came up

It was posted by Southern Scroller on Sept 3, 2015

Hope it helps

He is one of the best out there when it comes to puzzles

Fab4

 

This is a reprint of Carter's Puzzle Method

_______________

 

So,,,,to start, here’s what you’ll need...

Pictures can be taken from almost any source, provided the paper is at least 20lb and preferably the weight of a magazine cover or greater. I take most of my pictures from calendars, cards and photos.

Blades: I use FD 2/0 “Superior Puzzle†blades . " Ultra Thin Puzzle Blades " (narrow kerf ) from Pegas , Shark and others also work well. To me, regular 2/0 blades cut pieces that are too loose.

Wood: All 1/4†- Probably my favorite wood is 5-ply poplar, which I get from Wildwood Designs. I also use Baltic Birch (harder to cut), oak, cherry and aromatic cedar. The poplar, for some reason, produces pieces with a tighter fit.

Glue: I use Aileen’s Tacky Glue, spread thinly and evenly with a plastic scraper. Any yellow wood glue will work almost as well. Some folks use sprays, but, to me, that’s a little messy.

Finishing spray: I use any Triple-Thick Clear Glaze. The best I’ve found is at Hobby Lobby under the brand name Crafts, Inc. (black label). Krylon makes a similar spray that is more widely available but it takes a longer time to dry. (Note: I do not spray glossy photos.)

* * * * *

Step #1 - Select picture. I deliberately select pictures that have color image lines within them that I can use as edges of pieces.

#2 - Glue to wood. Spread a thin and even coat of glue on the wood and smooth picture down slowly from one corner to its opposite. Stay close to the glued picture for 20 minutes, checking it frequently and smoothing down edges and any bubbles that appear.

#3 - When glue is dry (4+ hours), cut picture around edges. I cut a straight border if the picture has one I want to keep. Otherwise, I cut a randomly wiggly border. Don’t worry about making a mistake. You can’t!

#3a - Spray one thick coat of any glaze or high gloss acrylic onto the front of the mounted picture and let it dry a day or more.

(At this point, I take a digital picture of the puzzle. On the computer I reduce it to about 4 x 5 inches and print it out.

#4 - Cut pieces, each with 2, 3 or 4 locks to adjoining pieces. I start at the upper right corner with a piece that has locks on each edge side. When you finish a piece, take it out and set it aside. When you encounter an image or color line within the picture, use its edges as the edges of puzzle pieces, remembering still to insert locking tabs.

A couple hints: a) Don’t worry about pieces not being the same size. They don’t have to be. b) Try to avoid having four pieces exactly meet at their corners. It makes the puzzle too loose.

When you’ve made 30 - 40 pieces, stop. Sand the backs of the pieces quickly either with sandpaper or with a sander held upside down in one hand while you touch the backs of pieces to it with the other. Then put those pieces together.,,,,and launch into cutting another batch....or forget it for the moment and find something else to do. You’re not running a race.

And please....please....dont use a pattern. If you want to insert certain shapes for pieces, trace those shapes when cutting them, but don’t use a pre-set pattern for the rest of the puzzle. No matter what your experience tells you, you do not need it!

#5 - When you’re finished cutting, flip the puzzle over and give the back a quick sanding. Take dust off the back and the front by flapping a damp sponge over the surfaces.

#6 - Take it apart, count the pieces, give it a name and write it down on the front of a baggie to put the pieces in and on the back of the photo you took earlier.

#7 - Start another one...........and above all, HAVE PHUN.

Edited April 4, 2017 by Fab4

[Paladin]

As for rounding over the edges on the thicker puzzles, I use a mop sander.  I can't remember which grit I have, but I think it is either 180 or 220.

 

Steve

[Dan]

The two names that come to mind are Carter Johnson and Shaun Ferguson. Both are members of SSW&C.

[orangeman]

The two names that come to mind are Carter Johnson and Shaun Ferguson. Both are members of SSW&C.

Carter Johnson is famous for his stamp puzzles! He had an article published years ago in SSWC. Shawn Ferguson is also a master puzzler and does a dynamite 3-d Christmas card puzzle. He also had an article published in SSWC.  Carter posts regularly on the Fox chat site. Shawn has been missing for awhile - seems he expanded his medical practice and doesn't have much time for puzzles lately. Shawn also has given demos at the Fox outdoor event and in Boston at a puzzle show.

Both gentlemen are highly talented.

[JOE_M]

Thanks for all the replies. I don't have any trouble with the paper/glue - I've been using contact cement and it sticks pretty good. I've tried it with regular photos, and postcard thickness prints. I glue it to the oversized plywood blank and then trim the edges to size. 

 

But if I try to cut a puzzle with the picture facing up, I have no way to sketch a pattern and I do need a pattern - I'd like the pieces to look at least something like a real jigsaw piece and without a pattern I can't seem to visualize it and I end up with a bunch of funky shapes that just barely interlock.

If I cut them with the photo facing down I can sketch out a pattern on the bottom, but then it ends up getting fine scratches on the paper from all the turning, and fuzzies from the blade.

I bought a roll of that low-tack clear film from hobby lobby but haven't tried to cut a sheet and print a pattern on it yet. I might try that, worst that happens is that I destroy the printer when it jams.

 

I am happy with the technique of cutting the blank in half, and then each half in half and continuing that way until they're down to a decent size. They all end up roughly the same size that way.

 

My saw is the Dewalt. It's no Excaliber, but it's not a $2 garage sale toy either so I'm assuming most of my problems are operator error.

[dgman]

You can glue your pattern onto a a scrap piece of plywood. Then using blue painters tape, tape the scrap with pattern onto your work piece., then cut your pattern.

With that said, there is nothing wrong with cutting your jigsaw puzzle free hand. I have cut many jigsaw puzzles free hand, without a pattern.

[amazingkevin]

 

I Googled Carter Scroll Saw Village and this came up

It was posted by Southern Scroller on Sept 3, 2015

Hope it helps

He is one of the best out there when it comes to puzzles

Fab4

 

This is a reprint of Carter's Puzzle Method

_______________

 

So,,,,to start, here’s what you’ll need...

 

Pictures can be taken from almost any source, provided the paper is at least 20lb and preferably the weight of a magazine cover or greater. I take most of my pictures from calendars, cards and photos.

 

Blades: I use FD 2/0 “Superior Puzzle†blades . " Ultra Thin Puzzle Blades " (narrow kerf ) from Pegas , Shark and others also work well. To me, regular 2/0 blades cut pieces that are too loose.

 

Wood: All 1/4†- Probably my favorite wood is 5-ply poplar, which I get from Wildwood Designs. I also use Baltic Birch (harder to cut), oak, cherry and aromatic cedar. The poplar, for some reason, produces pieces with a tighter fit.

 

Glue: I use Aileen’s Tacky Glue, spread thinly and evenly with a plastic scraper. Any yellow wood glue will work almost as well. Some folks use sprays, but, to me, that’s a little messy.

 

Finishing spray: I use any Triple-Thick Clear Glaze. The best I’ve found is at Hobby Lobby under the brand name Crafts, Inc. (black label). Krylon makes a similar spray that is more widely available but it takes a longer time to dry. (Note: I do not spray glossy photos.)

 

* * * * *

 

Step #1 - Select picture. I deliberately select pictures that have color image lines within them that I can use as edges of pieces.

 

#2 - Glue to wood. Spread a thin and even coat of glue on the wood and smooth picture down slowly from one corner to its opposite. Stay close to the glued picture for 20 minutes, checking it frequently and smoothing down edges and any bubbles that appear.

 

#3 - When glue is dry (4+ hours), cut picture around edges. I cut a straight border if the picture has one I want to keep. Otherwise, I cut a randomly wiggly border. Don’t worry about making a mistake. You can’t!

 

#3a - Spray one thick coat of any glaze or high gloss acrylic onto the front of the mounted picture and let it dry a day or more.

 

(At this point, I take a digital picture of the puzzle. On the computer I reduce it to about 4 x 5 inches and print it out.

 

#4 - Cut pieces, each with 2, 3 or 4 locks to adjoining pieces. I start at the upper right corner with a piece that has locks on each edge side. When you finish a piece, take it out and set it aside. When you encounter an image or color line within the picture, use its edges as the edges of puzzle pieces, remembering still to insert locking tabs.

 

A couple hints: a) Don’t worry about pieces not being the same size. They don’t have to be. b) Try to avoid having four pieces exactly meet at their corners. It makes the puzzle too loose.

 

When you’ve made 30 - 40 pieces, stop. Sand the backs of the pieces quickly either with sandpaper or with a sander held upside down in one hand while you touch the backs of pieces to it with the other. Then put those pieces together.,,,,and launch into cutting another batch....or forget it for the moment and find something else to do. You’re not running a race.

 

And please....please....dont use a pattern. If you want to insert certain shapes for pieces, trace those shapes when cutting them, but don’t use a pre-set pattern for the rest of the puzzle. No matter what your experience tells you, you do not need it!

 

#5 - When you’re finished cutting, flip the puzzle over and give the back a quick sanding. Take dust off the back and the front by flapping a damp sponge over the surfaces.

 

#6 - Take it apart, count the pieces, give it a name and write it down on the front of a baggie to put the pieces in and on the back of the photo you took earlier.

 

#7 - Start another one...........and above all, HAVE PHUN.

 

Thanks for the info!

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Carter was the name. That is correct. he is the best I have seen do any type puzzles.

[NC Scroller]

I cut puzzles out of Christmas cards that I mount on 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. The real stuff and not that junk you get from Lowes or Home Depot. I use Flying Dutchman Puzzle Blades. I do not us a pattern. I just follow lines and shapes in the picture. It really is much easier then it sounds.

 

There is an excellent puzzle tutorial on the Fox Chapel SSW&C forum.

[meflick]

Thanks for asking your question and thanks to all who have provided helpful tips and information on how/what you do or links to places to find info, etc.  Always good to have this info. out there for us newbies.  I hope to try again soon on some puzzles.

[ike]

I have not made  any 1/4 thick puzzles Width that size I would probably use a #3 ( I use nothing but Olson's Match 3 blades ) When I set up to do puzzles i align my blades using a square and make sure the blade is as close to Square as possible.and a #5 will be just fine for thick woods and a #3 will begin to cut an an angle after it gets some ware,

IKE