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Painting backers??


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I'm not a very big fan of stained projects.. so most anything that I put a backer on I just use a contrasting wood and use mostly BB ply or oak ply and then use a walnut ply backer.. thinking of doing something different and maybe just using the BB ply for a backer that would be painted but was wondering a couple things..

1) what type of paint do you all use? aerosol spray paint can or brush it on?

2) what glue for gluing the backer to the cutout that will stick good with the paint and hopefully dry clear in case you get some glue in a visible area?

3) How do you finish the piece? I typically dip most my projects in Danish oil.. If I do that before gluing the backer will the glue still stick considering the glue is going onto two finished pieces.. can one glue and then dip into Danish oil or would the Danish oil damage the painted surface.. Maybe use a spray poly.. not a big fan of that either on fretwork type stuff as it's difficult to get the clear onto the frets evenly..

 

Anyway, just wondering how you all do this.. I've done a few projects with paint several years ago and just wasn't real pleased with my final results.. yet I see many nice pieces you all post with painted backers.. 

 

Thanks,

Kevin

 

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well Kevin, first of all, from personal experience, I don't dip anything anymore because most of the time I use shellac & lacquer. I hang my project & spray it. I don't have any trouble with product gettin' into tight places. Second, if you're goin' to stick a backer to your project, your wood needs to be clean, bare wood, or your glue won't hold, regardless of what type it is. You can paint your backer, let the paint cure out, then use spray glue on the back of your project BEFORE you clean the pattern off, then stick it to your backer. Put a little weight on it for a few hours to level it out & allow the glue to set & cure. Then peel your pattern off the project.

If you can avoid it, try not to use a gloss paint on your backer. Your glue will stick better, & hold longer. You can use a clear coat, or lacquer when you finish it. That's what works for me. Hope it helps ya. Brad.

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3 hours ago, SCROLLSAW703 said:

well Kevin, first of all, from personal experience, I don't dip anything anymore because most of the time I use shellac & lacquer. I hang my project & spray it. I don't have any trouble with product gettin' into tight places. Second, if you're goin' to stick a backer to your project, your wood needs to be clean, bare wood, or your glue won't hold, regardless of what type it is. You can paint your backer, let the paint cure out, then use spray glue on the back of your project BEFORE you clean the pattern off, then stick it to your backer. Put a little weight on it for a few hours to level it out & allow the glue to set & cure. Then peel your pattern off the project.

If you can avoid it, try not to use a gloss paint on your backer. Your glue will stick better, & hold longer. You can use a clear coat, or lacquer when you finish it. That's what works for me. Hope it helps ya. Brad.

Try Weldbond glue it will stick to painted surfaces.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-4-oz-Weld-Bond-Glue-by-Weldbond-8-50160-/370798072574?hash=item56554992fe:g:gAUAAOSw7aBVJsW6

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I dip in 50/50 BLO first then glue with ordinary wood glue to a 3mm MDF backer painted with mat black rattle can paint.  When dry I trim flush with a bearing guided router cutter.

I rarely have problems with adhesion but sometimes it's tricky to apply the glue quick enough to cover the cutting before it starts to dry out.  Judging how much top apply to prevent squeeze out takes practice but I clean up with a cocktail stick as best I can. 

Rob

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Thank you all for the tips / suggestions.. For my current project I decided I was just going to do it the way I have always done it.. with the contrasting wood... 

Also I see someone mentioned framed items they use felt etc.. My father used to use heavy paper and would paint the paper background with a airbrush for a sunset scenery effect ect... was really kind of cool.. For the most part.. I use the foam sheets ( similar to the felt ) but its smooth and is easier to clean the dust out later.. I find that felt will almost attract dust to it and is a pain in the you know what to clean it..

 

Kevin

 

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I use a rub on stain instead of painting because it still leave a glue-able surface and it goes on with a throw away piece of paper towel so no clean up.Also I am stain the edge of the backer board without worrying about getting in on the back of it. plus it goes on even and drys very quickly

Dick

heppnerguy 

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9 hours ago, heppnerguy said:

I use a rub on stain instead of painting because it still leave a glue-able surface and it goes on with a throw away piece of paper towel so no clean up.Also I am stain the edge of the backer board without worrying about getting in on the back of it. plus it goes on even and drys very quickly

Dick

heppnerguy 

I always wondered about those color stains.. I've heard of using food coloring to color wood with as well.. 

Kevin

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12 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I always wondered about those color stains.. I've heard of using food coloring to color wood with as well.. 

Kevin

I have used food coloring on some of my pieces when I want a blended or soft look..It works quite well for me too. but the backer  board needs a little more solid look as it is often what makes the scrolling really stand out..that is why I use the stain. 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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On 5/5/2017 at 11:03 AM, kmmcrafts said:

I'm not a very big fan of stained projects.. so most anything that I put a backer on I just use a contrasting wood and use mostly BB ply or oak ply and then use a walnut ply backer.. thinking of doing something different and maybe just using the BB ply for a backer that would be painted but was wondering a couple things..

1) what type of paint do you all use? aerosol spray paint can or brush it on?

2) what glue for gluing the backer to the cutout that will stick good with the paint and hopefully dry clear in case you get some glue in a visible area?

3) How do you finish the piece? I typically dip most my projects in Danish oil.. If I do that before gluing the backer will the glue still stick considering the glue is going onto two finished pieces.. can one glue and then dip into Danish oil or would the Danish oil damage the painted surface.. Maybe use a spray poly.. not a big fan of that either on fretwork type stuff as it's difficult to get the clear onto the frets evenly..

 

Anyway, just wondering how you all do this.. I've done a few projects with paint several years ago and just wasn't real pleased with my final results.. yet I see many nice pieces you all post with painted backers.. 

 

Thanks,

Kevin

 

 

I love using a pin nailer .the nails are so thin and you don't even need putty to hide the entrance point.Great for those non stick situations

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For anything that I make with a painted backer, I use spray paint.  Matte or satin - never gloss.  I will spray poly on the front of the cut piece, and leave the back bare.  I've used aileens tacky glue for many years now to the stick the cutout piece to the painted back and have never had one come off.

 

Steve

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I have used craft acrylic paint to paint the backer.  Left an border unpainted so there is no issue with the glue holding.  Just finished 7 tags for my daughter's synchro swim team using this.  First layer of paint is just a solid colour then I had some sparkle paint on top.  Let that dry then sprayed satin finish over everything.  To add more bling (a synchro thing) i used some stick on "diamonds" around the edge.IMG_20170509_214824.thumb.jpg.fa3cf570bb03f919ba491c120d4b111c.jpg

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I use 1/4" BB which also helps pull any cup out of the 3/8 cherry I have been using.  I mask the BB to keep the surface free of paint where I will be applying Titebond.  I use an extra copy of the pattern to help this step.  Then I spray with whatever color I want to use (usually flat black).

After the paint is dry, I remove the masking tape and apply a thin coat of Titebond to the BB and a small bead to the back of the cherry.  I then clamp and let it dry.  Since the cherry is subject to movement with moisture, I also like to drive three brass flat head screws that are short enough to ensure they will not go all the way through.  These are overkill but they would keep the scrolled piece in place if the glue failed.  

Edited by Blaughn
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