blades for dummies

[rob342]

is there a blade info thread here somewhere? like a chart, or in depth recommended read?

i try to search and not ask too many dumb questions, but i'm confused.

i see #5 seem common, some like 2-0, etc.     this may as well be in another language to me as i'm used to shopping in store by eye.

____________

most commonly i use these three types depending on the project.

[Iguanadon]

Ah yes, the ol' blade questions... Always interesting.  Here's a great reference sheet that may be useful.  http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-16765698503918/2015-scrollchart.pdf

Otherwise... it all depends on what type of work you're doing... what type of wood, how thick, how intricate, etc, etc, etc.  By all means, feel free to ask questions.  The easiest is if you see someone showing a piece of their work, ask them what blade(s) they used and you'll get a good idea of what to use in specific circumstances.

Iggy

[Mark SW]

Rob

You might try this http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/Olson-scrollblade-chart.pdf

Hope this is what you are looking for

Mark

[Scrappile]

If you do a search on the internet for "scroll saw blade chart" look at images there a lots of charts available.  Keep in mind the charts are a good starting point, but only a guide.  Preferred blades is pretty much a personal preference.  When I first started, I bought some combo packs that various vendors sell.  That a least gave me familiarity with different blades and what sizes worked for  what I wanted to do.  From there I purchased different blades based on what I read on this forum, usually went by what people said, that did the kind of scrolling I was most interested in.  Then I just kept narrowing it down as I gained more experience.  I prefer Flying Dutchman blades, others prefer Olsen or Pegas.  The brands you pick up at a big box store are not good blades, with the exception of Olsen.  Some stores sell them.  It takes time and practice.  Do not be afraid to buy a variety and try each.  I am still trying different blades for different things.  I purchase the Flying Dutchman blades from "Mike's Workshop" or "The Wooden Teddy Bear".   Both are owned and operated by the same people.  I'm sure others will mention where they purchase their favorites.

[rob342]

the chart helps immensely..  now when i read a blade number i can see what they mean.

thanks guys. i definitely don't mean to start a "which oil for my car" kind of thread. the blade numbering sytem just wasn't clicking

 

i'll check out the flying dutchmen stuff as well.

any brands known to be horrible? for example, i previously noticed the ryobi blades at the big orange store look very pretty due to their heat treating, but are best when left in the package, and even better when left on the store shelf.

Edited May 8, 2017 by rob342

[blights69]

Was going to send you the very link you have already been supplied I have that on my shop/well shed wall but as Scrappy said some times you get used to certain ones

[Bill WIlson]

1 hour ago, rob342 said:

 

any brands known to be horrible?

Horrible is in the eye of the beholder, but the rule of thumb is to steer away from store bought blades that aren't named Olson.  I think Flying Dutchman blades are only available via internet sources.  I don't recall every seeing them in a brick & mortar store.  Olson and FD are the 2 most popular brands.  There has been a lot of chatter about Pegas blades lately on the forums.  They were brought up at our scrollsaw club meeting and one fellow says he does not like them.  I don't know enough about them to recommend them or steer you away from them. 

Beyond those brands, the only other one I have any personal experience with is the PS Wood Super Sharp.  They're very good blades, but quite expensive and they don't have reverse teeth, so I only used them in very specific applications.

[kmmcrafts]

I typically do not like to offer blade advice as far as what size for x size wood ect.. because I find that my preference changes from one saw to the next.. I can run a #3 on my DeWalt because it has the aggressive cutting with forward motion.. but on my Hawk I might use a #5 or larger.. Also like someone else said.. it really depends on the work at hand..

If anything.. I suggest buying some sample packs of different style blades and see what works best for you.. Blade charts are at best a starting point.. but even so.. I find that I hardly ever use the suggested blade.. I like cutting fast.. so I typically use a more aggressive blade that what is suggested.. so that goes back to my suggestion.. just fork out some cash and buy some sample packs and make some sawdust.. and see what works for you..

 

Kevin  

[lawson56]

Yea,That's how I started,buying them multi packs.I had to ask also.I didn't know a Darn thing.As stated all depends on your thickness of wood, a lot of Great advice up there,I'm Thankful they were around when I needed it.

[SCROLLSAW703]

Rob, before you start "forkin' out the cash" for blades, might I suggest to decide what your interests are for the saw. What to do you want to make? Puzzles? fretwork? design work? name plates? Every project uses a different type of blade, & usually more than one size & type. Soft woods use different types of blades than hardwoods do. The smaller the blade, the more teeth per inch. The bigger the blade, the less teeth per inch. 

 

As a rule, it's tough to give blade advice until you actually decide on what type of projects you prefer to do, & type of wood of you intend to use. From there, advice is easier to give. Like most have said, if its in your best interest, try the multipacks. Otherwise, order a few different sizes & try them. Don't hesitate to ask questions. We've all been there. Happy scrollin'!

[amazingkevin]

On 5/8/2017 at 11:41 AM, rob342 said:

is there a blade info thread here somewhere? like a chart, or in depth recommended read?

i try to search and not ask too many dumb questions, but i'm confused.

i see #5 seem common, some like 2-0, etc.     this may as well be in another language to me as i'm used to shopping in store by eye.

____________

most commonly i use these three types depending on the project.

With all your expertise and cutting skills I'd be looking to you for this kind of advice

[SCROLLSAW703]

whatever works for you, Amazing Kevin.

[rob342]

On 5/9/2017 at 10:17 PM, amazingkevin said:

With all your expertise and cutting skills I'd be looking to you for this kind of advice

i'm very much a beginner. my expertise is signs and picking materials/finishes that look good. i'm "as beginner as they come" with scroll saws. the extent of my blade knowledge is reading the 3 or 4 packages at my local hardware store. i love the scroll saw. for putting a 3d logo on a wall, the only options for me are either use the scroll saw or order them from geminisignproducts.com

luckiily i'm pretty good at slapping vinyl on stuff and cutting it out. 

if i was as good at picking blades it would save me hours on filing edges and when i cut polycarbonate maybe it won't melt back together.

based on your 30,000 post count i can only assume your being sarcastic.  i wasn't trying to come off as arrogant when i joined. i'm here to learn and i thought showing of my work would maybe inspire people to try a few new materials. 

[Bill WIlson]

2 hours ago, rob342 said:

 

if i was as good at picking blades it would save me hours on filing edges and when i cut polycarbonate maybe it won't melt back together.

 

Try a skip tooth blade (Flying Dutchman brand are called Polar), the largest size that is appropriate for the pattern.  Keep the saw speed turned down a bit.  The polycarbonate fuses back together due to heat that is generated by the blade moving too fast and/or not clearing the chips from the kerf efficiently enough.  The skip tooth blades have slightly larger gullets between the teeth and all the teeth point in the same direction, so they are better at keeping the kerf clear, thus reducing friction and heat.

[SCROLLSAW703]

what bill said, rob. Skip tooth blades will probably do you more justice in what you do than others. Depending on your pattern & the type of material you're cutting, start with a #2 blade, or there abouts, & figure out from there what will or won't work. You may have to go Olson to get a blade you like. The main thing is, Rob, to learn. 

Scrolling isn't just about puttin' a blade in your saw, & flippin' the switch. It's about learning the level of your creativity & making your saw do the work. It's about learnin' the capabilities of your saw & growin' with it to make your artistic ability show. It's about learnin' who you are, & findin' out who is willing to help you along the way, & who isn't. 

Just keep doin' what you're doin', brother! Stay away from the blades at the big box stores!!! happy scrollin' & God bless!
 

 

 

[Rolf]

Blade number is not consistent across all brands . If you compare different blade brands also look at TPI (teeth per inch) 

It impacts how aggressive a blade is the fewer teeth the more aggressive. 

 

 

 

 

[stevan]

I don't want to add to the confusion but I stumbled across this chart this afternoon.

PegasChart.pdf