Blade Tensioning

[Vector01]

If you ask 20 people the proper way to tension your blades you'll probably get 20 different answers. You can pluck it, twang it, strum it, push it etc. But when you get that sweet spot for the wood/thickness your cutting, how do you duplicate it? Most high end saws have blade tension levers that return the tension to the original setting. On my RYOBI it's hit and miss, especially when changing blades or doing inside cuts where you are constantly releasing the tension.

Looking through Amazon the other day, I came across an inexpensive guitar tuner. I figured for $7.00 bucks I'd give it a try. Got it today so I tried it out..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019FAKN4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked great! Tested it 5 times with the same blade and received the same reading. Now I know when cutting 1/2 pine with a 5R blade what the blade tension should be. It seems to work better if attached somewhere above the blade (see photos). So when changing blade/wood combinations and I find the right tension I'll have an idea what the tension should be. I'm no musician, so i set it for Guitar and 435HZ ( I have no clue what that means).

[ScollSaw Slasher]

Interesting use of a guitar tuner. As a guitar player for 60 years, I've become a fan of these electronic devices. Many years ago, I could tune a guitar in the standard E standard tuning by ear, but age has left me wanting in that ability. They basically work not in the actual sound, but the vibrations that they create in the actual guitar, etc. Most tuners use a A 440 configuration as their base (think wave length). Now on other posts and scroll saw forums, one is trying to hit a C. That I can not ascertain myself as the optimal config for tensioning, but just to say it's a interesting use of the device. I'll just have to give it a try myself.

[Vector01]

I have heard that people go by the sound the blade makes when plucked. They compare it a certain musical note, unfortunately my hearing is not that good anymore, so a visual works better for me I wouldn't no a C from an E. . 

[SCROLLSAW703]

a guitar pick? Whatever blows yer skirt up, I reckon. I guess I'm to much old school, &  learned from experience of usin' different blades. Every type of blade has a different tension setting, & at times, a different sound. Sometimes I even use the flat of an eraser on a pencil, push lightly against the blade. If it don't move more than say, a 1/16" of an inch, or there abouts, it's tensioned sufficiently. Experience will teach you alot, but whatever works. It's a different take on things for sure.

[tuner]

Whatever system you use to tension your blades new user's should be aware a loose blade will cause you more trouble then one a little over " just right "

[amazingkevin]

On 5/17/2017 at 3:32 PM, Vector01 said:

If you ask 20 people the proper way to tension your blades you'll probably get 20 different answers. You can pluck it, twang it, strum it, push it etc. But when you get that sweet spot for the wood/thickness your cutting, how do you duplicate it? Most high end saws have blade tension levers that return the tension to the original setting. On my RYOBI it's hit and miss, especially when changing blades or doing inside cuts where you are constantly releasing the tension.

Looking through Amazon the other day, I came across an inexpensive guitar tuner. I figured for $7.00 bucks I'd give it a try. Got it today so I tried it out..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019FAKN4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked great! Tested it 5 times with the same blade and received the same reading. Now I know when cutting 1/2 pine with a 5R blade what the blade tension should be. It seems to work better if attached somewhere above the blade (see photos). So when changing blade/wood combinations and I find the right tension I'll have an idea what the tension should be. I'm no musician, so i set it for Guitar and 435HZ ( I have no clue what that means).

Rarely do i tighten my dewalt over 1.5

[ike]

I know if I have it right by the feel of the tighten lever and I usually use a 3 to 4 setting never have any problems.

 

IKE

[CharleyL]

Kevin,

You will get longer blade life and smoother cuts if you run your blades tighter. On a DeWalt 788 a setting of 3-4 results in almost no blade breakage and much straighter cuts for me. Of course, other factors, like blade speed and sharpness also affect blade breakage frequency. Burning cuts indicate excessive speed or dull blades. If the blade is turning a different color, it is being overheated and has lost it's temper, likely also leaving hard spots in it that will crystalize  and break at these hard points. A sharp blade heats up much less than a dull blade. If you still want to cut with it and not change it, you need to slow the saw to keep the blade from overheating and burning.

Charley

[SCROLLSAW703]

+1 what charley said! You'll find every blade has it's own "sweet spot" when you begin to tension it. And, Every project, regardless of the type of wood, is going to use more than one size or type of blade. And, there are types of wood that burn easier than others. Cherry, maple, padauk, etc. have a tendency to burn at high blade speeds & dull blades. Learn to adjust the blade speed to suit the project, not to suit you. You'll find your blades will last longer, & cut better. After you cut awhile, check the tension of the blade. You may need to take the slack out of it. Also, watch the the color of your blade that's doin' the cuttin'. You'll be able to tell with some experience when it's gettin' hot, when it's gettin' dull, etc. Let the blade do the work. If you have to start puttin' more pressure against the blade, it's shot! Change it out before ya break it.