Starter hole drill bit size for inlay work

[UncleApple]

Seeking wisdom!  I've recently started trying some inlay work and have found that filling the drill-holes are a challenge to say the least.  I've tried making a sawdust paste with wood glue and even tried using super glue on top of the sawdust (which seems to work best).  The issue I'm facing is that if I laminate 2 boards together to do the inlay work, my drill holes are harder to fill.  If I cut each piece separately, then the drill holes are removed from the equation, but the required precision of the cuts are increased ten-fold.  The smallest drill bit I can find around here is 1/16th.  Is there a smaller bit size I should be using?  For those who do inlay work, is it better to work on each piece separately or laminated together? Thanks in advance!  Attached is pic of my first inlay placed on a band saw clock I made a few weeks ago.  I cut the maple inlay pieces out first, and then cut the red cedar out.

[Scrappile]

I'm don inlay expert but I do know you can find small drill bits on the internet at about any of the sites that sell scroll saw blades. i.e. Wooden Teddy bear, Mike's Workshop...  There are two tutorials on this site about inlay work that were posted in the last few weeks.

Nice looking clock

[Grumpy Old Bear]

I have also found very small drill bits at a hobby store. Not a Hobby Lobby store, but a store that deals with model cars and model trains. I hope this helps.

[JOE_M]

All my current blades are flying dutchman from Mike's workshop. He lists the smallest drill size for each blade and I made a chart to keep by the saw. The #5 for most types of FD blades fits in a #60 hole. The #1 size 65-68, and the puzzle blades will fit in a #71. I'm pretty sure that the other types (Olsen, ??) also list the size of the drill bit to use.

Mike's workshop also sells 6-packs of choose-your-size drill bits for $5, and I'm sure the other sellers do to.

Or if you want a set of many sizes cheap, I just bought two sets of #60-80 drill bits at sciplus.com for 7.95 each and a real cheap (3.95) set of 15 metric bits 1-2mm for places where any old hole will do.

 

[MrsN]

I don't do inlay but here is what I use for tiny drill bits. I get this set from harbor freight

https://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-micro-drill-bit-set-30-pc-61526.html

In the store it is in a plastic clamshell package, often labeled wire drill bits. They are not the sharpest of bits, but let's be honest they get lost before they wear out.

[Scrappile]

Keep in mind these tiny drill bits are like scroll saw blades, they break.  I buy and use sizes 63 through 70 most.  I buy six or more of each size at a time. 

[cnkcustoms02]

You could also try an profane drill set for gas orifaces mine go from 40 to 82

Edited May 22, 2017 by cnkcustoms02

[UncleApple]

Thanks everyone!  Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight for me!

[kmmcrafts]

Not sure if you have a Menards store nearby but my local Menards has the numbered drill bits. I believe they come in a 2 pack if I remember correctly.. I typically buy them from Mikes Workshop but from time to time I loose or break them.. then forget to order some more. Nice to have them locally if I am in desperate need..

 

Kevin   

[Dave Monk]

I definitely stack cut my inlays. I use 1/32" drill bit that buy on e bay. I am using Pegas  Modified Geometries Blades. I have tried every brand but it is my favorite. Size #1 on my inlays. Just about everything else I use #5.  My go to filler is Famo Wood. It comes in several wood colors. There are many here that have much more talent and expertise than I when it comes to scrolling and inlays...........just thought I would share my two cents worth.

[Jim Finn]

I do LOTS of inlays.  Over 2000 to date.  Double stack the woods, drill the starter holes at an angle steeper than the angle the scroll saw table is tilted to. I use 3/8" woods and I tilt my scroll saw table about 2° and dill the starter hole at about 6° using a 1/16" bit in a rotary tool (like a Dremel)  I make a filler  by mixing white glue and sanding powder (sawdust is too coarse) to the consistency of mayonnaise.  I apply this paste using a credit card as a squeegee and sand well after it dries (in about ten minutes)

[Ron Johnson]

When doing inlay I drill my starter hole at the same angle as my scroll saw table. Approximately 4 degrees to the left (using ⅛" woods).  Drilling almost inside cutting line will eliminate the need of using any filler if your inlay piece is cut accordingly. Always do your cutting counter clock wise. I use micro drill bits (size 60 - 80) that come in a 20 pack available from Amazon. 

Edited May 23, 2017 by Ron Johnson

[hawkeye10]

22 hours ago, UncleApple said:

Seeking wisdom!  I've recently started trying some inlay work and have found that filling the drill-holes are a challenge to say the least.  I've tried making a sawdust paste with wood glue and even tried using super glue on top of the sawdust (which seems to work best).  The issue I'm facing is that if I laminate 2 boards together to do the inlay work, my drill holes are harder to fill.  If I cut each piece separately, then the drill holes are removed from the equation, but the required precision of the cuts are increased ten-fold.  The smallest drill bit I can find around here is 1/16th.  Is there a smaller bit size I should be using?  For those who do inlay work, is it better to work on each piece separately or laminated together? Thanks in advance!  Attached is pic of my first inlay placed on a band saw clock I made a few weeks ago.  I cut the maple inlay pieces out first, and then cut the red cedar out.

For drill bits I buy them here. They don't mined small orders.

 

https://drillsandcutters.com/

[kywoodmaster]

I have always had good luck with these guys. A Mom and Pop store great to deal with and fellow scrollers.

http://www.sloanwoodshop.com/drill_bits.htm

[amazingkevin]

On 5/22/2017 at 8:20 AM, UncleApple said:

Seeking wisdom!  I've recently started trying some inlay work and have found that filling the drill-holes are a challenge to say the least.  I've tried making a sawdust paste with wood glue and even tried using super glue on top of the sawdust (which seems to work best).  The issue I'm facing is that if I laminate 2 boards together to do the inlay work, my drill holes are harder to fill.  If I cut each piece separately, then the drill holes are removed from the equation, but the required precision of the cuts are increased ten-fold.  The smallest drill bit I can find around here is 1/16th.  Is there a smaller bit size I should be using?  For those who do inlay work, is it better to work on each piece separately or laminated together? Thanks in advance!  Attached is pic of my first inlay placed on a band saw clock I made a few weeks ago.  I cut the maple inlay pieces out first, and then cut the red cedar out.

i got my tiny drills from mike 's workshop and the chuck to hold them from Lowes for $28.00

Edited May 24, 2017 by amazingkevin
hit the wrong key ,a 4 instead of a $

[heppnerguy]

Jim Finn and Ron Johnson are both super craftsmen and you can always rely on any in put you can get from them.  Jim Finn posted a detailed article here in The Village that will step anyone through the process of inlay. Jim has probably done more inlay than everyone else here, combined..

Dick

heppnerguy

[UncleApple]

On 5/23/2017 at 11:06 PM, heppnerguy said:

Jim Finn and Ron Johnson are both super craftsmen and you can always rely on any in put you can get from them.  Jim Finn posted a detailed article here in The Village that will step anyone through the process of inlay. Jim has probably done more inlay than everyone else here, combined..

Dick

heppnerguy

I can't seem to find the article from Mr. Finn you mentioned in your post.  Can you post a link in the reply? Much obliged!

[UncleApple]

On 5/22/2017 at 8:52 PM, Jim Finn said:

I do LOTS of inlays.  Over 2000 to date.  Double stack the woods, drill the starter holes at an angle steeper than the angle the scroll saw table is tilted to. I use 3/8" woods and I tilt my scroll saw table about 2° and dill the starter hole at about 6° using a 1/16" bit in a rotary tool (like a Dremel)  I make a filler  by mixing white glue and sanding powder (sawdust is too coarse) to the consistency of mayonnaise.  I apply this paste using a credit card as a squeegee and sand well after it dries (in about ten minutes)

Gorgeous inlay! Thanks for the advice...now back to the shop  

[cnkcustoms02]

Be careful with the harbor freight bits none of the small ones I get from there are ever even close to running true they are almost always bent

[heppnerguy]

I have to say that I have purchased a lot of very small bits from HF and I am happy with all of them...Not sure why they will not work for others as well as they do for me..

Dick

heppnerguy

[cnkcustoms02]

I just haven't had the luck lol

[Jim Finn]

22 hours ago, UncleApple said:

I can't seem to find the article from Mr. Finn you mentioned in your post.  Can you post a link in the reply? Much obliged!

I will try to post it here.  It opens in "Word" so it may not work.

double bevel inlay instructions.docx

[UncleApple]

14 hours ago, Jim Finn said:

I will try to post it here.  It opens in "Word" so it may not work.

double bevel inlay instructions.docx

Thank you!!

[Gonzo]

Fastenal also carries the small bits.