Best way to scroll 1/8" walnut

[1213brett]

Hi I have never scroll sawed before. I want to scroll some 1/8" walnut.  Its not too complex a design.  But one part that needs cut out is kind of small at one point. I was just wondering the best way to go about doing this. Like what blade and speed should I tape the front and or back. I have heard of backing the wood with birch wood when you cut it. Would this help me and if so what is the process of doing this. Any advice I would be thank full for. Bellow is a pic of what I want to scroll saw out of the walnut.

 

[jerry1939]

This is 1/8" solid oak.  I am a firm believer in using "sacrifice boards" on both the top and bottom.  1/4" luan plywood is inexpensive and I consider it a good investment for the amount of time spent on something fragile.  Run the face grain of both pieces of plywood in the opposite direction of the grain of your fret piece.  For some things, IF the luan isn't chipped, I have already spray painted them and given away.  People are happy to get them, especially delicate Christmas ornaments.

Good luck Friend.

jerry

[hawkeye10]

1 hour ago, 1213brett said:

Hi I have never scroll sawed before. I want to scroll some 1/8" walnut.  Its not too complex a design.  But one part that needs cut out is kind of small at one point. I was just wondering the best way to go about doing this. Like what blade and speed should I tape the front and or back. I have heard of backing the wood with birch wood when you cut it. Would this help me and if so what is the process of doing this. Any advice I would be thank full for. Bellow is a pic of what I want to scroll saw out of the walnut.

 

Brett what your wanting to cut is what a scroll saw is made for. I think a more important question might be what blade you should use. Why not post what blades you have and we will go from there. I do agree with Jerry about using backer boards. They will help but not necessary. I other words it's not a must have. Mean while try practicing cutting with and without a backer board. Don't expect to jump in there and cut this like a pro. I have been cutting for about a year and have such a long way to go. 

Get back with us soon.

[Lucky2]

Brett, if you a seriously thinking of cutting this ship out of 1/8" walnut, I want to wish you good luck. 1/8" Walnut stock is very fragile, I think you will have a lot of breakage. A backer would help prevent some of the breakage, but you don't need to use anything birch or expensive. For a backer, you should use the cheapest 1/8" sheet material you can find, meranti isn't 1/8" but it does a good job as a backer. A #1 or a #3 blade would do the cutting, and I use a scroll reverse type of blade. 

[SCROLLSAW703]

brett, I'd have to agree with Lucky on this one. I cut feathers for dream catchers I make, & I plane the stock down to 3/16". I don't use a backer, never have. I use a #1 skip tooth blade, & have broke a few feathers, but that's part of it.

Were i you, I would rethink your construction plans & use 1/4". If you've got walnut pieces, locate a lumber store, or a friend with a planer & the charge will be minimum compared to wreckin' your complete project w/1/8" material. then you can easily use a #1 or #3 blade. And your project won't be near as fragile. 1/8" material is more for flat fretwork that's going to be glued to backer board permanently.

Also, make sure your table top is good & waxed before you Start. Your blade speed is going to be slow. Maybe around 200 or 250 cpm. start with that & see how it goes. After you've cut awhile, have a look see at the back side of your work piece. If it's splintering, slow down just a little bit. If it isn't, try uppin' your speed just a touch. Take it a step at a time, a little common sense, you'll figure it out. Blade tension is critical. Over tight blades will pull out of the blade holders or break. To loose of a blade will wander & cut crooked. Your tension should be set so that you can push it lightly a 1/16" right & left. You'll figure it out! Start with scrap first!!!!! We are always here to help you when you need it. good luck!

Edited June 22, 2017 by SCROLLSAW703

[WayneMahler]

Cutting thin wood normally I use a backer board.It really helps support the piece I am working on. I normally use a #1 or #3 blade for this, depending on the pattern. Like anything else there is a learning curve. Experience is the best teacher and asking questions is the best way to get help on learning. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I would not use walnut. Not stable enough. I would cut out of Baltic Birch or Finnnish or even Apple plywood as long as it has no voids and then stain it  brown. 

[hawkeye10]

37 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I would not use walnut. Not stable enough. I would cut out of Baltic Birch or Finnnish or even Apple plywood as long as it has no voids and then stain it  brown. 

John that is a great idea.  

[1213brett]

Basically what I want is for the keel to be walnut. The whole thing dose not need to be walnut. What if I cut a .30 in or 7.8 mm strip of 1/8" walnut that curves up the front of the ship? and glue it to the rest made of birch. The strip can be in two or three sections. Or will I still run into the same problems? I looked into birch and from what I read on the net it dose not take to stain well. I don't know about apple.  If I cant use the walnut what would be a wood that scrolls well and also takes dark stain? How about oak?

Edited June 22, 2017 by 1213brett

[hawkeye10]

10 hours ago, 1213brett said:

Basically what I want is for the keel to be walnut. The whole thing dose not need to be walnut. What if I cut a .30 in or 7.8 mm strip of 1/8" walnut that curves up the front of the ship? and glue it to the rest made of birch. The strip can be in two or three sections. Or will I still run into the same problems? I looked into birch and from what I read on the net it dose not take to stain well. I don't know about apple.  If I cant use the walnut what would be a wood that scrolls well and also takes dark stain? How about oak?

Oak would stain alright but it is an open grained wood you might not like that or you might like it okay. What I would do is get wood that you have on hand or you want to buy and test the different wood with the stain you want to use. Straight grained pine is another wood you might test. Although pine is a wood that doesn't stain well a small piece might work. Testing is something I do a lot, weather it's stain or finish. Something you might find helpful in the future is to use mineral spirits on a piece of wood your thinking about putting a clear finish on. Just get a rag wet and wipe it on and you will see how nice it will look. Let us know how you come out or if you have more question just ask.

[Ron Johnson]

My choice of wood would be ⅛" walnut. Scrape to a fine sheen and lightly sand with  800 grit. Attach your pattern and cut using either a #2 or #3 blade at a fairly high speed. When cutting I go by sound and how blade is cutting.  No backer needed. Experiment on a scrap piece first.