Lower blade clamp problem (maybe)

[hawkeye10]

I have been getting some bent blade ends on my lower blade clamp. I am pretty sure it's not been like this from the start. I am like a cat fish (bottom feeder) so the the lower clamp isn't used near as much as the upper and the saw is about 6 or 7 months old. Here is a picture of my problem so maybe you guys can understand better what is going on.

 

[tuner]

Your clamp should have a set screw on the other side of the thumb screw.looks like it needs to be tightened . 

[WayneMahler]

If you look into the lower clamp you should be able to see the set screw sticking out a bit. Adjust it so that you can. I had this before and it is caused by the blade trying to bend into the hole. I also have my set screws set with Blue Thread Locker ( Loctite ) which helps keep then adjusted properly. I hope this makes sense and helps some. 

[hawkeye10]

1 minute ago, WayneMahler said:

If you look into the lower clamp you should be able to see the set screw sticking out a bit. Adjust it so that you can. I had this before and it is caused by the blade trying to bend into the hole. I also have my set screws set with Blue Thread Locker ( Loctite ) which helps keep then adjusted properly. I hope this makes sense and helps some. 

Wayne I know what you are talking about but the blade isn't bending that way. If you look at the picture the blade is laying flat on it's side. Correct me if my thinking is wrong. I still have a lot to learn.

[WayneMahler]

Don

What saw do you own ? If it is a Dewalt or Ex they have buttons that should turn when tightening. I re looked at the photo but these old tired eyes are having trouble seeing the position. Is it bent like a hockey stick ? If so I would definitely check to make sure the buttons are turning . Try cleaning them and lightly lubricating them. Hopefully this will help. 

[tuner]

Is this a one time or is it happening all the time ?  I have had a blade bend like that after a piece of wood got stuck on the blade, but your right it's not the set screw

[hawkeye10]

1 hour ago, WayneMahler said:

Don

What saw do you own ? If it is a Dewalt or Ex they have buttons that should turn when tightening. I re looked at the photo but these old tired eyes are having trouble seeing the position. Is it bent like a hockey stick ? If so I would definitely check to make sure the buttons are turning . Try cleaning them and lightly lubricating them. Hopefully this will help. 

Wayne I am not much on hockey but I think it is. I took off the table so I could see and reset the allen head button. So the Loc-tite is drying now.

[hawkeye10]

1 hour ago, tuner said:

Is this a one time or is it happening all the time ?  I have had a blade bend like that after a piece of wood got stuck on the blade, but your right it's not the set screw

Randy I cleaned everything out and reset the allen head screw so we will see.

[ike]

I have a small thin 6" scale ( ruler) that I clamp on then I go to the other side and tighten that set screw loosen the thumb screw and tighten the left side screw 1/8 of a revulutionthat always take care of that problem. I have a dewalt 788 saw.

IK

[hotshot]

For anyone else that is wondering about that set screw adjustment, here is an easy way to do it perfectly, and ensure you are exactly the same for the top and bottom clamps.  You can almost do this with your eyes closed.  Works on Ex, DW788, and Seyco clamps.

 

1.  Unscrew the set screw from the clamp (doesn't have to be all the way removed, but it should be backed into the clamp so nothing is protruding)

2. Put coin or flat piece of metal in the clamp, then tighten the clamp knob so that the piece of metal is pushed against the far side of the clamp.

3.  Now if you screw the set screw back into the clamp until it "hits" that piece of metal, then you know the set screw is perfectly flush.  Loosen the clamp, and turn the set screw one half a turn further into the clamp, and you have a perfect, repeatable setting for both the top and bottom clamps.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

You did not say what saw it is you are talking about so that may help with the answer. But as a general rule all clamps must be able to move back and forth or pivot on any saw. If the bottom clamp is not moving with the push of the wood or the up and down motion of the saw then it will bend as you have shown. Your cuts will also be either undercut or maybe overcut on the top of the material. Make sure the clamps pivot as they are designed to do. 

[hawkeye10]

3 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

You did not say what saw it is you are talking about so that may help with the answer. But as a general rule all clamps must be able to move back and forth or pivot on any saw. If the bottom clamp is not moving with the push of the wood or the up and down motion of the saw then it will bend as you have shown. Your cuts will also be either undercut or maybe overcut on the top of the material. Make sure the clamps pivot as they are designed to do. 

John I have an EX16.  

[Rolf]

The only time I get this effect on one of my Hawk clamps is repeated over tightening causing this distortion. 

[CharleyL]

That bend is quite high up the blade from where the clamp and set screw usually contacts the blade. Are you certain that the set screw is causing this problem?

Something to consider when adjusting the blade clamp set screws is to make certain that the blase moves straight up and fown without any side to side movement. These set screws also set the upper and lower blade clamps to be directly one above the other. If the blade has any blurred image when the saw is running, one of these set screws is out of adjustment. The blade must move straight up and down and not sise to side at the cut point. The saw will still cut if not adjusted correctly, but it will be very difficult to get a perfect 90 degree cut, even if the saw table appears to be at a perfect 90 degrees to the blade. A way to measure this is to check the distance of the blade in it's up position and it's down position with respect to the side of the blade opening with a dial caliper. They should be the same.

I cannot do good compound cutting if the blade is not perfectly set at 90 deg to the table, both in the side angle as well as the back angle.. Setting the side angle is easy, just adjust the table, but getting the back of the blade at 90 degrees to the table requires elongating the mounting holes of the upper or lower  yellow arm of the saw where the upper or lower blade assembly attaches In my DeWalt 735 saw. The other brands of saws like the Delta and Excalibur saws likely will need these mounting holes elongated to accomplish this adjustment as well. It doesn't take much filing. Each hole only needed to be elongated about 1/2 of the screw diameter in my saw. A few strokes with a small round jewelers file in each hole was all that was necessary.for my saw, only the holes in the lower arm needed elongating. You will have to determine if, and then which holes need elongating in your saw by checking your rear saw blade angle to the table, and then see if you can move the upper or lower blade mechanism forward or backward in the existing mounting holes of the upper and lower arms of your saw to see if you can adjust the blade to make it exactly 90 degrees to the table. If you can't, then elongating of the holes may be necessary.   

Charley

[hotshot]

Hawkeye, if you reset the set screws, and this is still happening, I can come by to put a second set of eyes on it.  I've been using the Ex for years, but have only had this issue when something was off with the set screw or Clamp Knob.  I can also show you how to tweak the saw for minimal blade travel if you haven't already made that adjustment.  If you bought from Seyco,  they usually make that tweak before shipping.  If you mess with that back knob, you will introduce blade travel, so in that case, you need to get that top arm level with the table again, then leave that knob alone.  I think sometimes vibration may cause the knob to turn and lower the arm.  If that bend is where your bottom clamp is attached to the blade, that would indicate your arm is way too low.

One quick thing you might try is to switch the top and bottom knobs.  If the issue is with the clamp knob itself, and you switch those, you should see the problem follow the knob to the other side.  If you knob has gone bad for some reason, I can loan you one of mine until you get a replacement.

 

-----Randy

Edited July 9, 2017 by hotshot

[Blaughn]

Hawkeye:

I experienced bends like that when I was struggling to make clean tight corners.  It turns out I was putting way too much pressure against the back of the blade and that caused the blade to bend forward relative to the portion locked into the lower blade clamp.

Bruce

[amazingkevin]

On 7/8/2017 at 11:47 AM, tuner said:

Your clamp should have a set screw on the other side of the thumb screw.looks like it needs to be tightened . 

Mine keep loosening up guess i need lock tite

[hawkeye10]

19 hours ago, hotshot said:

Hawkeye, if you reset the set screws, and this is still happening, I can come by to put a second set of eyes on it.  I've been using the Ex for years, but have only had this issue when something was off with the set screw or Clamp Knob.  I can also show you how to tweak the saw for minimal blade travel if you haven't already made that adjustment.  If you bought from Seyco,  they usually make that tweak before shipping.  If you mess with that back knob, you will introduce blade travel, so in that case, you need to get that top arm level with the table again, then leave that knob alone.  I think sometimes vibration may cause the knob to turn and lower the arm.  If that bend is where your bottom clamp is attached to the blade, that would indicate your arm is way too low.

One quick thing you might try is to switch the top and bottom knobs.  If the issue is with the clamp knob itself, and you switch those, you should see the problem follow the knob to the other side.  If you knob has gone bad for some reason, I can loan you one of mine until you get a replacement.

 

-----Randy

Randy I think I have found the problem and it was me. ((I know you can't believe it.)) I am tightening the the blade clamp to tight. I would how ever like to learn how to tune my saw. I have always thought that my saw could do better. I am sure it's not rocket science it's just knowing how.

[hotshot]

14 hours ago, hawkeye10 said:

....... I would how ever like to learn how to tune my saw. ....

 PM me and we can find a good time meet up tune it up.

Edited July 11, 2017 by hotshot

[CharleyL]

On 7/9/2017 at 11:49 PM, amazingkevin said:

Mine keep loosening up guess i need lock tite

Make sure you get the Blue Loctite. The Red requires a torch to get it loose, which will likely destroy the saw. Orange is also near impossible to get free. The blue is designed to hold threads from moving, yet will release when the need arises using only hand tools. Use only the blue.

I bought a peddle type kids fire truck when my boys were young. I put it together and used red Loctite. Nothing has come off of it, and my boys are now in their late 40's. The grand kid is now enjoying his daddy's fire truck.

Charley

[hawkeye10]

10 hours ago, hotshot said:

 PM me and we can find a good time meet up tune it up.

Randy I set you a PM this mourning but it's different on this forum than others I have used. If you don't get it let me know. Thanks;