Finishing Question for the Dippers

[JOE_M]

I made a bunch (20ish) of animal puzzles from a book, each one has 4-8 pieces and is approximately the size of the dog puzzles that all the cool kids are doing these days.

I need to apply a clear finish and because there are so many nooks and crannies on the sides I want to try that dipping thing that some of you have mentioned where you dip it in a vat, shake it off, and set it aside to dry for a while.

But here's the kicker - all the pieces are colored. Some with milk paint, some with regular stain, and some with water based wood dyes and yet others with watered down acrylic paint.

So what's a decent clear coat to dip in that will adhere to the wood but won't dissolve any of the colors?

thanks

Joe.

 

[Bill WIlson]

Typically, the products that are best applied by dipping are those that are either pure oil (BLO and tung oil) or those of which oil is a main component, such as "Danish" oil.  This is because the oil soaks into the wood and doesn't form a film finish.  It's also slow to cure, so excess can be allowed to drip off or be wiped off pretty easily.  I don't think it would necessarily dissolve the colors, provided the dye/paint has cured properly, but the problem is, oil imparts an amber tint that will alter the color of the dyes & paints. 

Clear, waterborne acrylic finishes are about the only ones that go on clear enough to not alter the color, but I don't think dipping is the necessarily the best application method for them.  Most film (oil or waterborne) finishes will tend to run and puddle, because they don't soak into the wood, rather they lay on top to build a protective coat.  That makes them troublesome to use for dipping.

Have you considered spraying?

[JOE_M]

16 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

Have you considered spraying?

Yes, I've got rattle cans, HVLP and other instruments of destruction but the pieces are small with many crooks and nannies. Spraying would be a big pain and it would take multiple sessions to get each piece (I think there's about 120 pieces total.). I'd really rather just dip, shake, set aside to dry or - if I had to - dip, spray off excess with the air compressor, set aside to dry.

 

I'm not too worried about the finish tinting the colors - they're puzzles for a 4 year old and I don't think she knows the difference between blue-green and cerulean, or what the correct shade of orange is for a giraffe.

[Denny Knappen]

I used the 50% BLO and Mineral Spirits for dipping.  I now use 50% Shellac and Denatured Alcohol.

[WayneMahler]

 I don't dip my projects. I would think a clear shellac would work. It is fast to dry and mixed with denatured alcohol. I would try it on a few test pieces just be safe though. 

[JOE_M]

28 minutes ago, WayneMahler said:

 I don't dip my projects. I would think a clear shellac would work. It is fast to dry and mixed with denatured alcohol. I would try it on a few test pieces just be safe though. 

Can shellac be dipped when thinned?

[Denny Knappen]

1 hour ago, JOE_M said:

Can shellac be dipped when thinned?

That is my go to process.  I call it a sanding sealer using Shellac diluted 50% with denatured alcohol.  On puzzle pieces, after a dip and dry, buff with a Mac Mop and a second dip and dry.

[JOE_M]

52 minutes ago, Denny Knappen said:

That is my go to process.  I call it a sanding sealer using Shellac diluted 50% with denatured alcohol.  On puzzle pieces, after a dip and dry, buff with a Mac Mop and a second dip and dry.

OK. I've got a can of shellac in the workshop and I'm pretty sure I have an industrial sized can of denatured alcohol in the shed. I'll give it a try tomorrow on a penguin that's got white acrylic, ebony stain and blue dye.

 

thanks

Joe.

[heppnerguy]

Keep us informed as to how things work out for you

Dick

heppnerguy

[Denny Knappen]

13 hours ago, JOE_M said:

OK. I've got a can of shellac in the workshop and I'm pretty sure I have an industrial sized can of denatured alcohol in the shed. I'll give it a try tomorrow on a penguin that's got white acrylic, ebony stain and blue dye.

 

thanks

Joe.

I buy the Shellac and alcohol in cans by the quart and mix 50%.

[Scrappile]

Just curious, why do you mix Shellac with Alcohol?  The Shellac is really thin, least the can I have is.  It is at least as thin as a 50/50 mix of BLO/MS.  And Shellac dries quickly, almost too quickly sometimes.  Mix BLO/MS to speed up the drying.  So I understand the reasons for mixing BLO/MS.  Are you mixing S/A for the same reasons?

[Bill WIlson]

Shellac is different from other film finishes in that you want a very thin layer as the topcoat.  It is very hard and brittle when cured, so if the layer of finish is too thick, it can be prone to crazing and cracking, over time.  Thinning shellac with DNA is a matter of personal preference.  I've shot the pre-mixed seal coat straight out of the can before and I've thinned it before.  Works fine either way and I don't think one would notice much difference in drying time.  The rule of thumb seems to be that between a 1 and 2 lb cut is preferred for spraying.  Zinnser Seal coat is a 2 lb cut of de-waxed shellac, while the regular Zinnser Bulls Eye (amber & clear) is a 3 lb cut and contains wax.  You can readily spray the Seal Coat straight out of the can, but it is probably a good idea to thin the regular, waxed shellac somewhat.  The proportions don't need to be terribly precise.  The ratio is a little more critical if you are mixing your own shellac from flakes.

Edited July 12, 2017 by Bill WIlson

[poupster2]

I've been using a mixture of Mineral spirit, BLO and polyurethane. after dipping, I let it drip, wipe the excess and let it dry for 24 h. Some of my backing are painted and the paint doesn't dissolve.

[amazingkevin]

great ideas ill have to try