Preliminary Hawk BM26 Review - by Iggy

[Iguanadon]

Hi All,

Several folks have expressed interest in the Hawk BM26 saw that I ordered, so I'll provide information as I move forward now that I'm in possession of it.

The saw arrived yesterday afternoon and I suffered through the ridiculous heat in my garage and got it assembled and turned it on to be sure it worked.  I also moved the accessory arm which holds the blower from the right side to the left side as it was on my Dewalt and that's what I'm used to.  I did a couple of small test cuts but that was it for yesterday.

I had my farmers market this morning and when I got home I decided to try starting to cut a puzzle and it went OK.  It's definitely slower cutting than the Dewalt but that's ok.  I did have some trouble with puzzle pieces not sliding in from both sides, but I just need to get the tilt of the table right.  I played with the "nose stroke adjustment which is the forward pitch of the blade to make it more aggressive.  I think this may have been part of the issue with the puzzle pieces not sliding in from both sides in my initial test.  Which makes sense logically, especially for puzzles, the blade may need to be more vertical.  Again, requires more testing and playing.

Attached are some pictures that folks have asked for. (I still haven't moved it into my cutting area, it's out in the open in the garage for now) Blade insertion and replacement is definitely different from the Dewalt but it's nothing horrible, just a matter of getting used to it.  The lower blade holder comes out, (as does the top blade holder if needed), and you can insert the blade and screw clamp it, then slide it back in and then clamp it at the top.  You can bottom feed or top feed just about equally on the saw.  I bottom feed so I won't have much to report pertaining to top feeding.

Below are links to the Hawk website as well as the owners manual if anyone is curious.  

I'll report back as I get to continue playing and cutting with it over the next week.  Let me know if any particular questions and I'll do my best to answer them.

Hawk website:  http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/WebsitePages/The-Hawk-Scroll-Saw.html

Hawk Owners Manual:  (give it a minute to load)  http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/files/SawManuals/BM-SERIES_SAW_MANUAL_4.pdf

Iggy

Edited July 15, 2017 by Iguanadon

[Scrappile]

Iggy, congrats on a good looking saw.  I have always been curious about the Hawks.  Never touched one, would like to get the chance to take one for  a spin someday.  Do not try to compare it to a DeWalt, I know enough to know it is a completely different saw, just like my Hegner is completely different from the Dewalt, Ex and Seyco that I have owned (still own the Seyco).  Took me a while to get use to it, now I love it.  It is a saw I will not part with.  I'm sure you will gain the same respect for your Hawk.

 

[Scrolling Steve]

Keep us posted, Scott !

[hotshot]

Iggy, on the back of the table where the bolt the table to the rear of the saw, there are nylon washers.  My table was not on the saw as shipped, so I just want to sanity check how the rear connects.  My saw came with one thick, one thin washer, but I'm not sure I have them on in the right combination yet (or if those are the right two washers.  Can you take a quick pict of the rear of the table there it is attached to the saw.  I want to sanity check my assumptions about this.

Edited July 15, 2017 by hotshot

[Iguanadon]

2 minutes ago, hotshot said:

Iggy, on the back of the table where the bolt the table to the rear of the saw, there are nylon washers.  My table was not on the saw as shipped, so I just want to sanity check how the rear connects.  My saw came with one thick, one thin washer, but I'm not sure I have them on in the right combination yet (or if those are the right two washers.  Can you take a quick pict of the rear of the table there it is attached to the saw.  I want to sanity check my assumptions about this.

Is this what you're looking for?

[hotshot]

59 minutes ago, Iguanadon said:

Is this what you're looking for?

 

Yes, thank you.  That is what how I set up mine.  My table tilt is a little stiff, so just making sure I got that right.  

I have one more thing for you to sanity check if you have the time.  My blade travel is near zero at table level.  I would consider that setting is for zero aggressiveness.  About 2 inches up on the blade, I seem to have a little more travel.  If you get a chance, can you see how your saw does at that height?

Edited July 15, 2017 by hotshot

[Iguanadon]

41 minutes ago, hotshot said:

Yes, thank you.  That is what how I set up mine.  My table tilt is a little stiff, so just making sure I got that right.  

I have one more thing for you to sanity check if you have the time.  My blade travel is near zero at table level.  I would consider that setting is for zero aggressiveness.  About 2 inches up on the blade, I seem to have a little more travel.  If you get a chance, can you see how your saw does at that height?

Happy to help, I sent you a message with my phone number so you can call me tomorrow and walk me through what you'd like me to check.

[rjweb]

This is what's good about our community helping each other out, RJ

[kmmcrafts]

2 hours ago, hotshot said:

Yes, thank you.  That is what how I set up mine.  My table tilt is a little stiff, so just making sure I got that right.  

I have one more thing for you to sanity check if you have the time.  My blade travel is near zero at table level.  I would consider that setting is for zero aggressiveness.  About 2 inches up on the blade, I seem to have a little more travel.  If you get a chance, can you see how your saw does at that height?

If I remember correctly.. your saw is the ultra saw from the ebay listing I posted about here? That is the same saw as mine which was brand new in the box when I got it.. There is two positions for the lower blade camp to set in.. front position is for a more straight up and down.. that position farther back is for a little more movement for a more aggressive cut.. hawk says the front one is for thin wood cutting ( up to 1/2" thick ) and the back one for thicker wood.. I also placed a square behind mine when i first got it just to note the difference and also compared to to my DeWalt... anyway.. I noticed that the blade does move more up higher on the blade.. but now I can't remember what position I had the lower clamp in or the difference between the two positions.. I may have to look when I go back out in the shop..  

[Sam777]

4 hours ago, Iguanadon said:

Hi All,

Several folks have expressed interest in the Hawk BM26 saw that I ordered, so I'll provide information as I move forward now that I'm in possession of it.

The saw arrived yesterday afternoon and I suffered through the ridiculous heat in my garage and got it assembled and turned it on to be sure it worked.  I also moved the accessory arm which holds the blower from the right side to the left side as it was on my Dewalt and that's what I'm used to.  I did a couple of small test cuts but that was it for yesterday.

I had my farmers market this morning and when I got home I decided to try starting to cut a puzzle and it went OK.  It's definitely slower cutting than the Dewalt but that's ok.  I did have some trouble with puzzle pieces not sliding in from both sides, but I just need to get the tilt of the table right.  I played with the "nose stroke adjustment which is the forward pitch of the blade to make it more aggressive.  I think this may have been part of the issue with the puzzle pieces not sliding in from both sides in my initial test.  Which makes sense logically, especially for puzzles, the blade may need to be more vertical.  Again, requires more testing and playing.

Attached are some pictures that folks have asked for. (I still haven't moved it into my cutting area, it's out in the open in the garage for now) Blade insertion and replacement is definitely different from the Dewalt but it's nothing horrible, just a matter of getting used to it.  The lower blade holder comes out, (as does the top blade holder if needed), and you can insert the blade and screw clamp it, then slide it back in and then clamp it at the top.  You can bottom feed or top feed just about equally on the saw.  I bottom feed so I won't have much to report pertaining to top feeding.

Below are links to the Hawk website as well as the owners manual if anyone is curious.  

I'll report back as I get to continue playing and cutting with it over the next week.  Let me know if any particular questions and I'll do my best to answer them.

Hawk website:  http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/WebsitePages/The-Hawk-Scroll-Saw.html

Hawk Owners Manual:  (give it a minute to load)  http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/files/SawManuals/BM-SERIES_SAW_MANUAL_4.pdf

Iggy

Congrats Iggy,

Now you will have even more fun.

Enjoy the NEW TOY

Sam

[hotshot]

Hey Iggy, let me clarify.  Per the manual, I'm using the 5/32 inch hex is that front hole on the bottom arm to adjust blade travel.  In theory, adjusting the bottom clamp all the way back will put the blade at a slightly forward leaning angle, and give the most aggressive cut.  So some where further out, there should be a sweet spot where the blade has the least aggressive action/motion.

There is a marker that shows position, and I'm assuming when that mark matches up with the end of the arm, it should be about at zero travel/agression.  Anyway, I'm trying to get blade travel as close to zero as I can, here is a video showing the most aggressive setting, and what I think is getting close to minimal travel setting.  What I don't know is if this is about as good as I can get, or if I need to keep tweaking.

 

https://youtu.be/u5Bctsc394s

Edited July 16, 2017 by hotshot

[amazingkevin]

New toys always fascinate me!Have fun!

[Iguanadon]

Sunday Update - So this morning I prepped 20 puzzles to replace what I sold yesterday.  After mounting them to the wood and rough cutting them into sections of 2-3 puzzles I started cutting the outlines using the new Hawk.  I figured I'd start with outlines, get used to the saw, etc.

Anyone have any spare blades?  I'm snapping them like crazy!  LOL  I know it's all my fault, making sure the blades are 90 degrees within the clamps, making sure the tension is appropriate and slowing down... slowing WAY down.  I'm getting there... just having to adjust to things.  

I'll use my Dewalt to cut these 20 into puzzle pieces because I need to them done and oiled as soon as possible.  We have friends coming to visit this afternoon for 2 nights so my cutting time will be reduced this week.

[Iguanadon]

10 hours ago, hotshot said:

Hey Iggy, let me clarify.  Per the manual, I'm using the 5/32 inch hex is that front hole on the bottom arm to adjust blade travel.  In theory, adjusting the bottom clamp all the way back will put the blade at a slightly forward leaning angle, and give the most aggressive cut.  So some where further out, there should be a sweet spot where the blade has the least aggressive action/motion.

There is a marker that shows position, and I'm assuming when that mark matches up with the end of the arm, it should be about at zero travel/agression.  Anyway, I'm trying to get blade travel as close to zero as I can, here is a video showing the most aggressive setting, and what I think is getting close to minimal travel setting.  What I don't know is if this is about as good as I can get, or if I need to keep tweaking.

 

https://youtu.be/u5Bctsc394s

Hey Hotshot, the video wasn't working for me, but your description made it clearer.  I had adjusted mine to be more aggressive but set it back because I think it was causing me issues with puzzle pieces not sliding in from both directions.  I used the line/marker to get back to where I think it was from the factory.  See pic.

 

[hotshot]

Hey Iggy, I had the video set to private, sorry about that.   I think you should be able to see it now.  Looks like our aggressive setting position are at about the same place.  

[hawkeye10]

1 hour ago, Iguanadon said:

Sunday Update - So this morning I prepped 20 puzzles to replace what I sold yesterday.  After mounting them to the wood and rough cutting them into sections of 2-3 puzzles I started cutting the outlines using the new Hawk.  I figured I'd start with outlines, get used to the saw, etc.

Anyone have any spare blades?  I'm snapping them like crazy!  LOL  I know it's all my fault, making sure the blades are 90 degrees within the clamps, making sure the tension is appropriate and slowing down... slowing WAY down.  I'm getting there... just having to adjust to things.  

I'll use my Dewalt to cut these 20 into puzzle pieces because I need to them done and oiled as soon as possible.  We have friends coming to visit this afternoon for 2 nights so my cutting time will be reduced this week.

Hey put those guest to work. Who knows you may get one of them to fall in love with scrolling.

[Iguanadon]

Unfortunately I believe there may be issues with the saw... I don't want to start bad-mouthing it and it ends up being something simple, but I'll be holding off on cutting with it and any updates until I speak with them hopefully tomorrow.  

[orangeman]

Iggy,

Breaking blades is a problem I have had with my Hegner for 7 years now. The blade breaks about an inch from the bottom blade holder. I have not found a solution. Easing the tension is not a solution because then the blade bends and puzzle pieces do not go in and out. Hope you find a solution as it may be transferable to my Hegner. I've never had a blade break on 5 DeWalt saws I've had in 15 years. The saws just wear out.

bb

[Scrappile]

9 minutes ago, orangeman said:

Iggy,

Breaking blades is a problem I have had with my Hegner for 7 years now. The blade breaks about an inch from the bottom blade holder. I have not found a solution. Easing the tension is not a solution because then the blade bends and puzzle pieces do not go in and out. Hope you find a solution as it may be transferable to my Hegner. I've never had a blade break on 5 DeWalt saws I've had in 15 years. The saws just wear out.

bb

When I first got my Hegner I broke blades.  I found out reading the instructions that the top clamp should be able to move a little in it's holder, ie, do not have that thumb screw screwed tight, it should let the clamp move a little.  That cured my blade braking problem on the Hegner. 

[tonylumps]

3 hours ago, orangeman said:

Iggy,

Breaking blades is a problem I have had with my Hegner for 7 years now. The blade breaks about an inch from the bottom blade holder. I have not found a solution. Easing the tension is not a solution because then the blade bends and puzzle pieces do not go in and out. Hope you find a solution as it may be transferable to my Hegner. I've never had a blade break on 5 DeWalt saws I've had in 15 years. The saws just wear out.

bb

I had the same problem with my Hegner Just compare the motors on both saws.I only use the Hegner now for really hard wood 3/4 and above The smallest blade i use is a 5 but most of the time a 7 It has to be slow and easy with the Hegner Everything else I use the EX.By doing this maybe the EX will outlive me

[kmmcrafts]

I kept breaking blades in my Hawk as well when I first started out.. mine was a tension issue I believe.. and I went from being way too tight to being too loose.. in both cases I was breaking blades.. when too tight.. I was breaking them right inside the lower clamp.. they'd snap.. then when it was too loose.. They was breaking about an inch or so from either the bottom or top I think.. 

That said though I think they will be better at telling you the issue by telling them where the blades are breaking etc..

Kevin

[Iguanadon]

The issue I'm having is the saw is very loud and vibrating a lot... I'm in communication with Hawk.  I'm hoping that whatever is causing those issues helps with the blades, although I still think the blade issue is my fault and I just need to adjust my cutting to what the saw will allow me to do.

I'll keep everyone posted.

[orangeman]

Iggy,

I had to send a pre Bushton Hawk saw back to RBI because of vibration - maybe 7+ yrs ago . Cost me $90 for shipping but I got the cost of the saw refunded.

I am flabbergasted they have not solved the vibration issue. Not good. Keep us informed.

bb

[Mark1]

I'm watching this review with great interest.

I'm not a scroller yet, looking to buy a first saw.  I don't want to make a bad decision on a saw and I don't want to buy a "starter" saw.  A starter locks me in to buying two which I can't afford.

I've been looking at a Hawk, and in doing the homework, know the BM series is quite different from the previous RBI saws.  Reviews mostly run "seashells and balloons" so honest reviews are like gold.  I know from previous experience there are usually issues to work through with any mechanical device however, design/engineering issues are much different than materials and workmanship.

What you are experiencing doesn't seem to be unusual for a brand new item.  It always seems there are a few things to work through.  I'm appreciating your honesty and your unwillingness to badmouth your saw.  This is a very interesting review.

Mark

 

[kmmcrafts]

On 7/17/2017 at 9:30 PM, Iguanadon said:

The issue I'm having is the saw is very loud and vibrating a lot... I'm in communication with Hawk.  I'm hoping that whatever is causing those issues helps with the blades, although I still think the blade issue is my fault and I just need to adjust my cutting to what the saw will allow me to do.

I'll keep everyone posted.

My saw initially had quite a lot of vibration when I first put it together.. I played around with everything I could think of.. and finally did one unthinkable thing.. I took all the bolts that hold the stand together loose.. then sort of wiggled the thing around to get everything settled in for the permanent parking spot.. tighten it all up and it's been fine ever since..