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Gluing the pattern down


tuner

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I'm old school been gluing patterns to the wood since I started 20+ years ago. So do I learn the new lookways, are they better. I read a lot about blue painters tape, at 5 bucks a roll is it that much better, if so why, can I use plastic packing tape, lots cheaper;), and last do you overlap the tape.

Right now.the heat gun lift's the pattern and a little sanding get rid of the glue, but I am ready to lear.

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I use clear shelf liner and use spray adhesive to glue the pattern to it, it's a lot cheaper than blue painters tape and a lot easier to apply to a standard 12" wide board.  Pulls up clean with no residue.  I was buying it from Amazon but they stopped offering it in the 12" width for a short time so I ordered 12 rolls from Walmart recently to stockpile.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Duck-Laminate-Peel-and-Stick-Shelf-Liner-Clear/16224481

Edited by Iguanadon
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I over lap painters tape about 3/16" seems to help when time to take off. Also I spray 3m77 glue onto the tape. Don't get glue on your hands this away.  You wouldn't want to use packing tape on bear wood it will be very hard to get off.  I do put packing tape over pattern. 

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10 minutes ago, lawson56 said:

Well,I myself use carbon paper.I trace my pattern onto my wood,after taping the corners down.This way I can use the same pattern dozens of times before I have to reprint it.I have been doing this since I have been scrolling,about 17yrs now.:)

Wow.  Do you hand sharpen your dull scroll blades too?  :D

 

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Good afternoon.

So the process would be 1) put clear shelf liner on the wood 

                                         2) spray adhesive to pattern

                                         3) attach pattern to shelf liner

Would that be the correct process?  As of now I am using packing tape then spray the pattern and attach it. Pain with larger patterns and sometimes very difficult to see all the small pieces of tape.

Thanks Mark

 

IMG_1252.JPG

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4 minutes ago, Mark SW said:

Good afternoon.

So the process would be 1) put clear shelf liner on the wood 

                                         2) spray adhesive to pattern

                                         3) attach pattern to shelf liner

Would that be the correct process?  As of now I am using packing tape then spray the pattern and attach it. Pain with larger patterns and sometimes very difficult to see all the small pieces of tape.

Thanks Mark

 

IMG_1252.JPG

Your steps work.  Personally, I spray the shelf liner and stick the patterns down onto it.  I have this small roller that I then roll over all the patterns I've adhered to the shelf liner to ensure they totally stick.  https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Deluxe-4-Inch-Rubber-Brayer/dp/B000BYVMFC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500851688&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=small+wallpaper+roller

Edited by Iguanadon
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Let me muddy the waters a little bit.....I have started using the green(frog)  painters tape, I spray my patterns with 3m spray 45,which is less expensive than the 77,....The green painters tape has slightly less adhesive than the blue and is easier to remove....Just my 2cents.......Works for me !:)

Edited by Scrolling Steve
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Tuner, I do it just like you except I apply clear packing over the pattern. Since I do a lot of fret work, I don't use the blue painters tape as I hate having to get all those little bits of tape off. After using a heat gun to remove the pattern, I use a a paper towel wetted with mineral spirits to remove any glue residue.

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If using BB plywood, I spray 3M 77 on pattern and attach pattern directly to BB. Then I top it with packing tape. All other woods I put blue painters tape on wood, spray the 77 on the pattern, attach pattern to blue tape, and skip the packing tape  

I do not like to put painters tape on directly on BB, seems to pull up the fibers. 

Packing tape seems to give off a glare, so I'm not a fan of it. 

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9 hours ago, tuner said:

I'm old school been gluing patterns to the wood since I started 20+ years ago. So do I learn the new lookways, are they better. I read a lot about blue painters tape, at 5 bucks a roll is it that much better, if so why, can I use plastic packing tape, lots cheaper;), and last do you overlap the tape.

Right now.the heat gun lift's the pattern and a little sanding get rid of the glue, but I am ready to lear.

your right there's always glue residue left when lifting the pattern with mineral spirits.Tape prevents that but i only worry about it if I'm going to stain or clear.Plywood usually gets painted .

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11 hours ago, tuner said:

I am definitely going to try, stopped off at the Dollar Store bought a roll of clear 18" x 1.5 yards. 

Seems to me for our use the cheep stuff may work , worth a try for a Dollar. If I have a proplem then I'll try wall-mart.

I agree I think any of them will work

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Mark that is a beautiful dog!

I never put clear tape on the wood especially not on fret work. It is too easy to miss small pieces when taking it off.

Like many others I use blue tape under my patterns for small projects and removable shelf paper for the big ones. I don't like solvents or spray glue so I use a Xyron machine for the adhesive on the patterns.

Regarding the cost of blue tape  a 1.88 (2") roll of the standard 3m tape is almost $9 at my Local Lowes, it is 45 yards long =135 ft= 1620 in. That is $.0056 cents /inch. I don't get why people say it is expensive.

While I am at it the Contact paper I use is  https://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-24F-C9998-06-Repositionable-Self-Adhesive-Lamination/dp/B0042SWP8Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500992377&sr=8-4&keywords=clear+removable+contact+paper

It comes out to $.003 cents /sq inch so the 11 x 14 inch fretwork that I am working on cost me $.46 cents. with the shelf paper or $.86 cents if I did it with blue tape. 

My biggest issue is time so I want to minimize the non scrolling part of any project. 

As a reference a pack of cigarettes in our area is $10+ that is 50 cents a cigarette, going up in smoke.  

Edited by Rolf
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Spray glue guy here all the way.  they secret is to use just a very very fine spray.  Let it be almost dry before pressing it to the wood.  It will stay in place for as long as you want for the most part.  By that I mean i might have had a little bit pull up in 12 plus years of scrolling.  

Too much and you will be sanding and scraping so there is a very fine line learning curve to this but once you get it down, you wont have to sweat it again.

Slso what pulls patterns off is turning your saw into a buzz saw.  back off on the big blades and speed and you will get way better results.  For me the biggest blade I will use is a #3 or maybe a #5 and thats for 3/4 pine.  I usually use 1/8: bb and for that the very biggest I use is a #1 and thats just for the major outline parts and even with that the speed is slow.  

Keep the patterns right where i put them and allow me to do very intricate work. 

 

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