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Alphabet Snake Complete


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5 hours ago, JOE_M said:

Please explain the food coloring finish. I've got a project that needs coloring and what I've been doing is just a big pain in the butt.

I've been using food coloring for 8 years now and I a still perfecting the technique. Many variables go into a nicely colored project. For starters I would not use pine or poplar as they are too soft and result in end grain bleeding onto the surface. I use only soft maple and use a durometer to test for hardness before I buy. There are numerous varieties of maple classified as "soft maple" - some harder than others. I just had to experiment with the hardness readings to find a number below which I would get miserable results. Then there is the dilution situation. Water vs alcohol. Alcohol changes the color in several colors. Some colors you can dip and others need to be wiped on with several coats. As you can see there are many variables and I haven't even mentioned drying techniques. One of these days I intend to write up my compilation of techniques and hopefully SSWC magazine will publish. Remember, nothing difficult is ever easy.

I see that the author used Baltic Birch and I have found that Baltic Birch is easier to color than maple. Hopefully the author of this thread can chime in and provide insight.

 

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I am just experimenting with food colour and we just put a few drops in some water.  It seems you have to make fairly strong.  Just dipped in left for a minute or so and then turned over and put on wire racks to dry.  Did not wipe.  Turned out what we expected.  The red could have been brighter but the boss was happy.

 

I have done pine quite recently and it turned out even brighter.  The 2 yellow ones below are food colouring.  The red is Keda dye.  (I not sure it food save so I did not use as I think these may hit a mouth.

IMG_6515.JPG

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