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mi77915

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Hi,

 

I’m new to this forum (and Fretwork) but not new to woodworking. I have been building furniture since I’ve been a teenager (I’m now 50) and would like to start making some of these designs for friends and family as well as myself. I already have a pretty nice variable speed Delta scroll saw, but not sure what blade I will need for this type of work.

I have been reading threads on this forum for a while and decided it was time to join in!

 

Now, about getting started. I have read that some people (at least from my limited reading), put clear packaging tape on the wood surface prior to gluing on the pattern (with a spray adhesive). Is this a “standard†practice?

 

Any advice/tips on getting started would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you,

 

Tom

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Hi Tom. Welcome to the Village. We're glad you joined us.

 

but not sure what blade I will need for this type of work.

 

It really depends on the thickness of the wood you're working with. If you're working between 1/8" to 1/2", my go-to blade is the #3 scroll reverse. Its a flat blade that has good control, but can get into tight details pretty easy. If you have large sweeping curves or straight lines, a larger blade (#5 scroll reverse) works better as id doesn't wander as much. But detail cutting is much more difficult. If you have very fine details, 2/0 scroll reverse is great. Since its such a small blade, it does get a bit squirrely to control. But the tight detail work, its amazing.

 

You can also consider a spiral blade. This allows you to cut in all directions. It can be difficult to control on straight lines. I typically use spiral blades on portrait style cutting with a lot of organic/wavy lines. The kerf is much larger on these blades. I typically use a #3 scroll reverse spiral and a #1 scroll reverse spiral. I use Flying Dutchman from Mike's Workshop. He has a sampler pack as well that might be worth looking into. I'd definitely mail-order your blades. The stuff they sell at the hardware store are overpriced and garbage. Stick to the name brands: Flying Dutchman, Pegas, and Olson and you'll do great.

 

I have read that some people (at least from my limited reading), put clear packaging tape on the wood surface prior to gluing on the pattern (with a spray adhesive). Is this a “standard” practice?

 

Clear packing tape is usually applied to the top of the pattern. It adds extra support to the pattern and prevents it from ripping.

 

I wouldn't put packing tape directly on the wood. Its difficult to remove and may leave behind a residue. Many folks will put blue painter's tape on the wood before applying the pattern. This is specifically designed to be removed from a surface without damaging it.

 

Here's what I do. I put blue painter's tape on the wood. The use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern. Let it dry until its tacky like a post-it note. Then apply to the top of the blue painter's tape. Then I cover the pattern with clear packing tape. It works really well for me.

 

 

I hope this answers a few of your questions. If you have any more, we're more than happy to help. I look forward to seeing your first project. Welcome to the hobby! :thumbs:

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Tom,

 

I know some don't like it and yes, it may be a little more expensive, but I use the self-adhesive paper from Sloans Woodshophttp://www.sloanswoodshop.com/misc_.htm to print my patterns on my printer. Then put it on the wood or metal and cut it out. On metal, I also cover the back of the piece with masking tape...seems to help lubricate the blade and make it last longer. For the most part, it comes off without much trouble, just don't leave it on for a week or more, then it gets stuck pretty good and leaves some residue. If you get residue, I've found that some masking tape applied after peeling the pattern off will pull the residue with it. That's my 2 cents... :|

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  • 2 years later...

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