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Choosing the correct blade


OCtoolguy

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I tried searching for the answer but I guess I didn't phrase it correctly. I'm still a novice so maybe this is a question that has been asked before. I'm sure it is. Anyway, I'm going to try my luck at making a set of nut bowls out of pine. If I succeed I'll try some exotic wood but for now, it's going to be out of what I have laying around. The pine is 3/4 inch thick and not really too hard. So, how do I go about choosing the right blade? I have a good selection of blades but I really don't know what tooth pattern or size to use. I'm thinking a number 5 but from there I'm lost. Can any of you offer your expertise here? I'd certainly appreciate it.

 

Ray

 

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A #5 reverse tooth is my go to size for 1/2" or greater.  I have and still use many brands and style blades though mostly Pegasus.  Instead of playing with pine use poplar.  Due to the grain pine is actually harder to get a true cut on especially when cutting with the grain.  

Good luck and hope to see pictures soon.

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14 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Thanks for the help. I have just been chatting with Iguanadon. He recommends pretty much the same as both of you. He uses Olsen Mach Speed #3 reverse skiptooth.

I don't have any of those but will soon purchase some.

 

Ray

 

I would use #3 and #5 Pegas MG blades. Just try a few. I bet you will like them. The main reason I like them is you feed the wood straight into the blade much like you would a jig saw. Other blades you have to feed them in an angle.

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14 hours ago, NC Scroller said:

A #5 reverse tooth is my go to size for 1/2" or greater.  I have and still use many brands and style blades though mostly Pegasus.  Instead of playing with pine use poplar.  Due to the grain pine is actually harder to get a true cut on especially when cutting with the grain.  

Good luck and hope to see pictures soon.

I couldn't agree more. 

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The only reason I'm going to use pine is I have a scrap large enough to get 4 bowls out of it. But, after talking with IguanaDon, I might just have to run over to Lowe's and buy some poplar. I've never worked with poplar before so I welcome the experience. 

I sure do want to thank all of you who chimed in on my inquiry.

 

Ray

 

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17 hours ago, NC Scroller said:

A #5 reverse tooth is my go to size for 1/2" or greater.  I have and still use many brands and style blades though mostly Pegasus.  Instead of playing with pine use poplar.  Due to the grain pine is actually harder to get a true cut on especially when cutting with the grain.  

Good luck and hope to see pictures soon.

i agree on poplar,pine grain makes your blade wander.

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Pine can be tough to cut but if you are take your time and use a sharp blade it is okay. 

I am starting my Christmas ornaments and I have cut the body in 3/4 inch pine.  I used FD Ultra Reverse #3 for all the interior detail and not an issue so far.  I used FD-UR for the exterior.  What I like about the UR is that the surface does not need to be sanded.  I used FD-UR #5 on exterior.  

I also cut a prototype in 1 inch and didn't have any issues.

I like the pine as this will be decorated and painted by the boss.

Only have 16 more to go and 34 of the feet.

 

sample (500 x 600).jpg

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On 8/25/2017 at 3:10 AM, don in brooklin on said:

Pine can be tough to cut but if you are take your time and use a sharp blade it is okay. 

I am starting my Christmas ornaments and I have cut the body in 3/4 inch pine.  I used FD Ultra Reverse #3 for all the interior detail and not an issue so far.  I used FD-UR for the exterior.  What I like about the UR is that the surface does not need to be sanded.  I used FD-UR #5 on exterior.  

I also cut a prototype in 1 inch and didn't have any issues.

I like the pine as this will be decorated and painted by the boss.

Only have 16 more to go and 34 of the feet.

 

sample (500 x 600).jpg

Hey Don, I like that. What is the size of it? And where did you get the pattern if I may ask?

 

Ray

 

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