Not sure whats going on

[edward]

Lately I been  cutting letters out on 1/2" oak which are very close to each other, the front looks good but the back tears out, tried different blades and the same results. I have to put a painter backer on the name to hide the cuts. Just wondering if anyone has had the same problem.   edward

[DWSUDEKUM]

Edward try using a scrap ( sacrificial ) backer board when cutting it that should help a lot.  

 

DW

[hawkeye10]

It could be the blade your using. So you might post that.

[scrollin'fool]

higher humidity makes the grain stronger

drier wood cuts easier

[SCROLLSAW703]

try slowing your blade speed down a little bit. What breed of machine are you currently usin' to work with? that will help us out to help you. Also, what size blade & type are you currently using to cut your letters? 

With 1/2" oak, a #2, #3 or #4 blade will work perfect. But, take into consideration you're cutting hard wood. Try using a polar blade of one of those sizes & you'll end your tear out. If you're using an aggressive blade, that would explain your tear out.

Edited September 4, 2017 by SCROLLSAW703

[edward]

I'am running a Dewalt 788  been using FD 2/o  and FD#1 FD #5 tried different speeds happens only when letters are real close.  edward

[Lucky2]

Edward, why are the letters so close together, is there no way of spacing them a little farther apart? What type not brand of blade are you using,  does it cut on the upstroke?

Len

[Ron Johnson]

Sounds like you're using a too aggressive of a blade. Try a finer blade such as a #3 double tooth. 

[Bfreeman]

Make sure your blade is at 90 degrees to your table (that was my problem)

Bill

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

What is happening is the grain is lifting because woods such as oak has wide grain patterns. Woods like mahagony and maples do not. There is little support in thin pieces when cuts are so close together. The blade catches the grain on a turn and can rip into it. I do not slow the saw down I instead speed it up and go slower but also use a reverse tooth blade. The best method to avoid this is either switch to a tighter grained wood or use a backer board with a zero clearance blade hole and a reverse tooth blade. My opinion.

[Sycamore67]

Are you using the FD Polar, Reverse or Ultra Reverse?  The Polar blades gives more back side issues than the Ultra Reverse.

[NC Scroller]

The issue is the hole size in the table.  Because of how close together your letters are you have delicate areas being unsupported while cutting.  This is what is causing the tear out.  There are a couple options to help prevent it.  First use a backer board such as 1/8 Baltic Birch.  The other way is cover up most of the table hole.  I do that with a piece of aluminum flashing.

[edward]

Here is a picture of the tear out, pattern was reduced.   edward

[crupiea]

I get more tear outs depending in the direction f the grain.  For letters i like the grain to go up and down instead of side to side.

[WayneMahler]

Been watching this thread. Would like to know what  blades your using. Ultra reverse, skip tooth what ever> Have cut many things and not had that problem. Using stable timber for most of my work not sure but this info could help us a lot. 

[SCROLLSAW703]

I agree 100% Wayne! If the wood isn't acclimated to your shop, that makes a big difference in the way it cuts. As mentioned, moisture content should be around 5% - 7%.    

[Sycamore67]

I am going to ask again....what type blade are you using.  You said earlier that you use Flying Dutchman but not which one. 

When I use the Polar, I sometimes get small splinters on the back.  If I switch to the Ultra Reverse, I get no splinters.

[amazingkevin]

On 9/4/2017 at 10:41 AM, edward said:

Here is a picture of the tear out, pattern was reduced.   edward

 Sometimes you just got to hide things .A colored paper backer will accentuate the project.