malc Posted June 13, 2010 Report Share Posted June 13, 2010 I have a pattern that requires some long straight cuts, about six inches, they are internal so I can't use a band saw. What is the best way to cut straight with my scroll saw? Malc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted June 13, 2010 Report Share Posted June 13, 2010 i had that problem a few times and learned that the thinest pencil line helps keep you going straight as you'll see right away that you're starting to go off course and going very slow worked out the best for me.The grain of the wood tends to make the blade wander so make sure the blade tention is tight too.Great question ,somebody needs to come out with a book of all the tips and tricks we need to know and refresh ourselves now an then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood-n-things Posted June 13, 2010 Report Share Posted June 13, 2010 Your blade is going to want to drift. You need to compensate for this by feeding your wood at an angle. Go slow and watch ahead of your blade slightly and cut toward a point in front of the blade rather than following the line. Once you try what I'm trying to describe you will understand. Mainly it is practice, and prayer that the blade won't catch the grain of the wood and go sideways. If it does then it is finesse' sanding...LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlton4143 Posted June 13, 2010 Report Share Posted June 13, 2010 One thing that will help is to use a larger blade. I use a #11 for straight cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 14, 2010 Report Share Posted June 14, 2010 Also, use quality blades. I like Olson Precision Ground and Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades. Both of these cut great with very little drift. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 One thing that will help is to use a larger blade. I use a #11 for straight cuts. I agree. The larger the blade, the less likely it will drift. I use a #5 or a #9. Blade tension also make a big difference. Let the blade do the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokinjoe Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 Straight - line cutting across the grain and with the grain takes practice also a couple of factors have to be taken into consideration . first almost all scroll saw and fret saw blades dont cut straight or cut parallel to the blade they often cut a few degrees more towards one side than the other . When you stand facing the direct front of the saw you will note that the angle of normal feed is off approximately 2 to 4 degrees to compensate You can verify this for yourself Draw some lines across a board with a square now cut each line you will soon determine that its easiest to follow the line with the work feed slightly angled into the saw blade Straight line ripping is done in essentially the same way However be alert because the blade may follow the grain rather than the layout as you expect. in such cases slow the feed and compensate by changing the angle slightly more in the appropriate direction . with some pratice straight line sawing freehand is surprisingly easy even when using very narrow blades . Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkeyredneck Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 I thought I might be able to add a little advice to the already great suggestions on this topic. Doing some of the larger projects I do, I cut a lot of straight lines. Therefore, through plenty of practice, I'm consider myself pretty good at it. Still though, there are times I come across a piece of wood that just will not let me cut a straight line no matter how I hold my tongue, or my wood. Therefore, I have a method to my straight lines. I always cut them first when possible. That way, if I get so far off while doing the staightaways that I'm not happy with it, I can scrap that piece of wood without already haveing a lot of time invested in that particular piece of wood. When I'm not able to cut the straights first, then I make sure I have a sharp blade. Those little suckers are straonger than you may think. Just because they are still cutting doesn't mean they are sharp. I have found that a dull blade will still cut for some time, but not very straight. So, with a sharp blade, I cut with the saw at a high speed, but while moving my wood at a very slow speed. I hope that makes much sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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