Help With Coloring

[Iguanadon]

I need to find a new/better method of "painting" the bases of some of the animal puzzles that I make.  My method, while simple, just isn't good enough (watered down food coloring).  It fades over time and I'd like more vibrant colors.

I know several of you do various coloring of puzzles and other projects and I'd like to hear what you do, how you do it, what it needs to be mixed with, etc.

In speaking with Harvey Byler this morning, I asked what he uses and he said Aniline Dye.  How about others?  Please share with me what you use, how you use it, what it needs to be mixed with, how you apply it.

Keep in mind, I'm lazy and I want the simplest method possible.  :-)  Harvey said with the Aniline Dye, he dunks the pieces in and lets them dry, just as I do with my current method and process.

Thank you in advance.  I look forward to learning some options so that I can test them out this winter once selling season is over.

Iggy

[JOE_M]

My last "colored" pieces used a few different methods.

Some were acrylic paint, with the brush dipped in water first to thin. It sucked. The grain still showed, which was nice, but it was a PIA making sure paint didn't drip into the crevasses and dry as big ugly clumps.

I also used milk paint, thinned. Milk paint stinks - it smells disgusting and dries flat so it needed a clear-coat which was even more of a PIA. I'll only use it again if I make some period piece that requires it.

I used some "wood dyes" from Hobby Lobby. They went on like regular stains would but with colors like "navy blue" and "barn red" instead of "dark mahogany" or "Colonial maple". Of the 3, this was the easiest but it still needed a clear coat to shine.

I've used aniline dyes in the past - I've got Transfast on the shelf, they're a powder and they make some nice very vivid colors. But they have to be mixed with HOT water, they do raise the grain, and if you don't follow the instructions for mixing it you will end up with some ugly splotching. They also color your fingers quite nicely if you don't wear gloves. It's a nice option if you've got time to pre-raise/re-sand the grain.

 

 

[fredfret]

Ihave Used Fabric dye (Rit Liquid diluted) and Leather dye both worked well finished with poly or schallic.

Fredfret

[WayneMahler]

I was thinking either aniline dye or Ritz dye diluted. Both work very well but my preference would be the aniline dye. dries quicker as it is alcohol based. Just beware with the fumes.

[cnkcustoms02]

Aww man iggy after reading the title I had the best advice then I read your post and "staying inside the lines" just didn't seem to fit anymore

[Iguanadon]

Keep the comments and ideas coming... including the jokes.  ;-)

Doing some searches on Amazon, came across this... has anyone used it before?  I also need green and figure I could make my own by mixing blue and yellow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J2NO2OA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATXQXNB6MHBOF&psc=1

[Iguanadon]

Oh... and my latest batches of watered down food coloring, I've been making darker and actually happy with the color.  But I guess I could just maybe spray lacquer or sealant of some sort to keep it from fading and also give it a bit of shine?

 

 

[spirithorse]

Hi, Iggy,

I have always used the craft paints thinned down and finished with a polyurethane spray.

Your present technique seems fine and I agree you should probably finish it with a sealant of some sort.
You can still choose from a satin sheen or gloss.

One other option not mentioned is Kool-Aid. Lots of colors to choose from and simple.

Your puzzles are quite nice.

God Bless! Spirithorse

[orangeman]

 

Iggy,

Aniline Dye = a probable carcinogin.

I worked for National Aniline Division of Allied Chemical Corp in the mid 60's. Could tell you many stories.

According to the EPA (from which I retired) :

" Human cancer data are insufficient to include that

 aniline is a cause of bladder tumors while animal studies indicate that aniline causes

tumors of the tumors of the spleen. EPA has classified aniline as a Group B2, probable human carcinogen.

 

Please stay away from aniline dyes! Go to my website and you will find all my colored puzzles are made with food colors and a Sherwin Williams lacquer.

Food colors are a good selling point too! SAFE!

It has taken me almost 10 years to perfect the process of using food colors and I am still fine tuning. Many tricks involved.

bb

www.pickenspuzzles.com

 

 

,

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 27, 2017 by orangeman

[ekud1946]

11 hours ago, Iguanadon said:

Oh... and my latest batches of watered down food coloring, I've been making darker and actually happy with the color.  But I guess I could just maybe spray lacquer or sealant of some sort to keep it from fading and also give it a bit of shine?

 

 

Looks Great!

[Rob]

I dilute food colouring 50/50 with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol for you I think).  It flows on quickly, dries rapidly and I have not noticed it fading.  Don't know if it is better than your method but would be easy to test on some scrap.

Rob

 

[Iguanadon]

FYI - Quick update.  I picked up some spray clear finish and I like how easy and quick it was and how quickly it dried on my painted bases (using watered down food coloring). 

I'm also testing spraying the bottoms of the feet of all of my puzzles.  As many of you know, I use mineral oil to dip my puzzles in to bring out the color of the wood but it of course never fully dries and while I have never had anyone mention or complain about the oil, I've always been slightly concerned about it being set on a piece of raw wood/furniture.  I did a quick test of 2 puzzles I recently cut and oiled.  I sprayed the bottom of the feet on one and not the other and then sat them both on a paper towel.  The test went very well.  No bleeding from the one sprayed.

I'm still open to any other suggestions or comments.  Thanks to all who have provided info so far.

Iggy

[don in brooklin on]

I use Keda wood based dyes.  https://www.kedadyeinc.com/

I have only used the red and it really seems to stay very bright.  The instructions state that it should be sprayed with "UV protecting sealer". 

Since the things I have done aren't going outside I just spray with poly but since yours puzzles are sitting in the sun in your display you may want to use spay spar varnish.

Feet on the enclosed are dyed.

 

 

 

[Montserrat]

some of the German scrollers use paint usually used for silk projects 

[crupiea]

What i do for my projects is I first paint the wood all white with some house paint and a roller.  Whole sheets at a time.

 

Then i make my project, the white is like a primer.  Once the pieces are cut a spray paint them the colors i want.  If i dont paint it white first it takes way too much paint.  i will also spray paint the items white sometimes and then the color the next day.

 

Might work with puzzles but would have to try it first, obviously the inside pieces might be in need of attention. 

[zimmerstutzen]

Many years ago, I could purchase powdered dyes used by some Eastern countries to dye Easter eggs.  The powder was like a fine saw dust and came in an envelope about like what banks use for currency.  The dye was mixed with a half gallon of water and a cup of vinegar. I used it once on some wooden silohuettes of animals I had cut out for my son to shoot with rubber bands.  The color was deep and uniform.  It did raise the grain, but the color was quite deep and vivid.  When dry it looked a little powdery, but when i rubbed the pieces of wood with Linspeed the colors got very deep and shiny.  Now I never used it on anything but clear pine and I did soak the pieces for ten minutes.   I have not been able to find those dyes in 20 years.   I have tried Greek and Russian ethnic grocery stores to no avail. .  

[Bpardue]

I use General Finishes pre-mixed water based  dyes and they work great. - They have several colors but I only have their, red, blue, white, green & yellow. They are pint containers and seem to last forever sense a little goes along way